KovemaN
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Posts posted by KovemaN
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You will need to get the later flares that have the provision for mounting the newer style mud flaps. Most likely 1994-95.
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I use one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html for ball joints and TREs. It's by far the best separator I've ever used. It's especially helpful when you don't want to destroy the ball joint or TRE boot with a pickle fork.
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Oh crap! $500!?!
Ok, now I'm going to have to get a quote so I know. I used to deal with platers (nickel, copper, gold) and anodizers, etc all the time...
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That's got to be at least $50 USD
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I have this one ^^^^ and I've been using it for about two months. It does suck, but it holds my cell phone perfectly. It actually work better than a lot of those slide out in-dash cup holders, but it blocks the stereo.
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I was originally going to call out the single post OP for being a cory74700 imposter. Post 3 almost cemented that position, but then I kept reading only to find out it was our own MY1PATH. You could have dragged this one out a little more for fun.
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I know for a fact that the gas tank skid can be doubled up and bolted in place with no modifications. I would assume the same would apply for the front skid. The transfer skid might be too thick and the mounting in an inopportune location.
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I also use the main harness boot to pass power through to the cab. The wire comes out nicely in the passenger kick panel. After that I ran the power cable through the rocker panel after covering the wire with a section of split loom. To bring it back out of the rocker there is a grommet in the body near the outside of the rear seats. I drilled a hole in the body back a little further and used the grommet access to help fish the wire up and out. This worked for 4ga so it should work for 8. The split loom made it stiff enough and slick enough to push through the rocker panel.
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looks like 15 votes over night...and i lost 4 votes too...the cool thing is we got 11 new members overnight and they all are looking to own a pathfinder. heck 9 of them all must have been thinking the same thing...and around the same time...9 signed up within the same hour.
And that's why nobody gives a rats arse about TOTM anymore.
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You'll need to look at the image full size to see where it's been (poorly) edited.
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I'm officially calling Shenanigans. Get your brooms.
Being a stickler for numbers has brought me back to this retarded thread one too many times. I went over everything and there are some glaring discrepancies. Here is the first: http://www.hdforums.com/forum/blowers-turbos-nitrous-oxide/663959-120r-turbo.html
Look familiar? That's the exact same image that Cory posted as "proof" that his VG30i can put down 190hp to the wheels. If you look closely at "his" other dyno sheet, you will notice that the date has been altered to read "5/24/2012" while the file path clearly shows that the run was actually on 05/21/2010. He also altered a few other places on the image.
Aside from the pictures he states in one post that he was at 2600 RPM in 5th @75 MPH (post #24) which could be correct depending on a few factors, but he later states that he was running 1000-1100 RPM @75 in 5th and 2600 RPM in 4th (Post #68). His gear ratios that he listed for the transmission were in line with stock gearing, but he stated that he had custom gears cut @ 2.42:1. In order to achieve 1000-1100 RPM @ 75MPH with stock transmission gearing you would need to have 1.5:1 gears. I can just see the R&P set now. 16 tooth pinion with a 24 tooth ring gear
Let's just admit that this was a great troll job and leave it at that. Hell, this guy puts Tungsten to shame
Mods: Please honor Cory's request and delete him.
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Possibly first with custom tranny gears.
You forgot about the other guy that likes to race his on the street by himself. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23923-wiredwrong/?hl=wiredwrong
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I've been looking into this. I haven't figured out the quick release hinges. For the wiring you could use an ATX computer power supply extender. Cut it in half, use two conductors for each of the window motor leads and the rest for mirrors and locks. They are super cheap (less than $3) and will give you 20-24 pins to work with. These also work great for standardizing your car stereo wiring across makes. The next owner will probably hate you though if they have to work on the stereo.
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I like my 33x12.50s. They wheel great and I only get a little rubbing at full stuff in the rear, but I don't have any bump stops at all. Installing 4.6 gears in place of the 4.3s made a noticeable difference.
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The max recommended width for 33x10.5 is 9". You don't want to look like those guys that spend big bucks on rims and didn't bother to wrap them with the correct rubber. You either need to go with a wider tire or find a new home for your wheels. Another option would be 32x11.5. They should stuff just fine and they will perform better on road.
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The t-case will take GL-4 or ATF. Manual trans guys usually use GL-4 in the rare case of a seal failure between the two.
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Thanks to SilverPath for a killer string of LED rock lights. I've got an interesting idea for them. I will certainly write it up if it works.
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My gifts are out. One should be there today. The other may not be there until the 26th.
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Heated mirrors aren't that big of a deal around Phoenix, but I have used them when I head out to snow country. The heated seats are pretty nice when it's below 50* in the morning. They are not so nice when the dog switches them on and it's 110*
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I never said they weren't for wheeling, but I do believe that when Nissan updated the interior they were trying to position the Pathfinder more in the luxury market segment. I'm a firm believer in the off road capabilities of all WD21s. I've put my '95 through hell and I still get to have heated seats/mirrors and a 7" in dash navigation system.
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Quite frankly, I'd much rather have them bend than snap and I suspect Nissan felt the same way.
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I don't think Nissan ever took wheeling into account when building the 93.5+ WD21s. There had to either be a cost or supply issue at stake. Personally, I prefer the I-beams over the tube lowers. The kind of hit it takes to break the I-beam is pretty extreme whereas the tube lowers are easily bent with only minimal contact. Trust me. I'm the PO from the OP's post. When I rebuild my rear suspension I'll follow GrandpaX's route and build extended uppers. I've got 2-3/8" greasable poly bushings for the frame side and 2-3/8" flex joints for the axle. That should provide reasonable road manners with decent longevity. Flexing out the factory bushings is what really kills them.
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You would need custom inner shafts. This axle was built by "The King" for his Nissan powered rock buggy. Here is the build thread over on Rugged Rocks. http://forum.ruggedrocksoffroad.com/index.php/topic,1640.0.html
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It's been done. The axle was flipped and had D44 inners welded on. It was on a buggy so the pumpkin was left in the center.
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My gift arrived yesterday. It's wrapped and not getting opened until Christmas.
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LED rock lights would be cool. Interesting stickers.
Little bit of Sedona red rock crawling
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I like the little brake check at the bottom of that first hill. If anyone has the urge to rent a jeep in Sedona, I would highly recommend Barlow Jeeps. The owner Nena is really cool and she is dedicated to the off road community.