KovemaN
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Posts posted by KovemaN
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Just an article I ran across where the message is quite simple. If you aren't sure who to vote for, please, dont.
What if you can't spell "Analyst's"?
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That's SteeevO's from Rugged Rocks. It's currently being rebuilt.
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The metal plate is supposed to sit on a plastic ramp that is bolted to the body. The rubber bumpers should be pushing against the latch plate on the gate. They shouldn't touch the bumper.
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$8 for title
$27.50 for emissions
$50 for two years registration
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Yeppers. It can be a biatch, but I've never had a Pathy fail for anything other than a gas cap or loose evap line.
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PB Blaster or Kroil are good for getting things un-stuck, but you shouldn't have too much trouble with the bolts.
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I just swapped a starter on a '94 with an auto trans yesterday. No body lift and I didn't pull the filter. It's tight, but doable. You can unbolt the motor assembly from the gear drive and that will cut the size of the starter in half.
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Is the width of the bushing 2" 3/8 ??
Yes.
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I thought you unibody guys could mount them under the rear seats? I could never get a 48" hi-lift to fit there in my WD21.
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I've got some NOS Nissan brush guards (headlight loops) for sale if you find a grill guard without them.
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I own a D21. I'm on #7 now. It's a regular cab 4x4.
She's on 33's now, but she's not running
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For clarification, isn't it necessary to drive in reverse 1 meter to completely disengage.
Yes. Sorry I didn't include that.
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You can shift from 2h to 4h on the fly up to 35mph. Most, if not all pathfinders came with auto locking hubs. You would need to come to a stop for the auto hubs to completely disengage, but it won't hurt anything if they are always engaged. Once the transfer case lever is shifted back to 2H the transmission is completed disconnected from the front differential so there is no chance of damage even with the hubs engaged.. Shifting from 4H to 4L requires that you be stopped with the transmission in neutral.
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You can also take the assembly down to a local hydraulic line/hose shop
If you have a good hydraulic shop then you should probably have a decent auto parts store. Custom can be nice, but direct fit with a lifetime warranty for 1/5 OEM price can't really be beat unless you have to warranty out the part often and I have never had a new assembly fail.
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The good thing about the cheap lines from the auto parts stores is that they have a lifetime warranty.
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After one of my tension rod bushings failed and was repaired
This says it all to me. If the cup holding the bushing was gone or you rebuilt it, you may be pushing the bottom of the UCA forward too much or too little. When I first rebuilt my compression rod bushings I started with a fairly thick washer. After staring at it for a while I realized that it would throw the caster off pretty bad so I found some thinner washers and built new cups again.
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The most common cause of UCA bolts being lost isn't due to the lift, but the loss of alignment shims on rough terrain. Once one shim slips out the bolt is loose. I lost all the shims on one side on my last wheeling trip, but I got lucky and didn't lose the bolts completely before I got home. I now use thin stainless washers for alignment. There is absolutely no possibility of them falling out. I've been setting the alignment myself for a few years now and I trust my work much more than any shop. My tire shop checks the alignment for free when I go in for balance/rotation and then I adjust the washers accordingly.
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Fuel pump went out 80 miles from home and 50 miles from the pavement. A tow could have easily cost $600-1000 and I'm not even sure anyone would have taken the job due to the terrain. I had to leave the truck overnight and hope nobody would mess with it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and ECU fuse just to be safe. I returned the next day with a new fuel pump and everything I needed to get the job done. After pulling the bed to get to the pump I noticed that the wiring to the pump had been cut and spliced. When I pulled the connector it had pretty bad corrosion so I cleaned the contacts and plugged it back it. The damn thing fired right up after that and drove home just fine. At least I got to return the unused fuel pump.
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It's not worth sending back for $10
The few times I've had bad or damaged parts, RockAuto shipped out a new one for free. I didn't even need to send back the part.
I do prefer OEM parts for engine and emission control sensors though.
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I've considered using the A/T cooler for the power steering, but since I'm not running hydraulic assist, I didn't feel it was worth the hassle. I don't think anything bad can happen if they aren't plugged or capped.
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When I bored Titans for my D21 I didn't take it all the way through. I took off just enough clear the bearing cap on the front hubs. I wasn't uncomfortable with it like that, but I wouldn't want to punch a 4" hole all the way through due to the shape of the casting.
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Titan rims are perfect for street driving on low profile rubber, but they would be horrible for off-road due to the backspacing/rubbing issues mentioned above. They would also look pretty stupid with 4wd hubs sticking out the side of them. Bottom line: They look clean and tuck nicely for 2wd, but for a 4wd they would be a costly eyesore.
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It looks like you only need shocks and sway bar bushings. Your upper ball joint and tre boots look good.
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Something needs to be planned before it gets too hot. I'm down for another run and the truck is ready.
Voting, an analyst's view
in Off-Topic
Posted
This analyst thinks so