KovemaN
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Posts posted by KovemaN
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I usually cut a slit in the rubber boot where the wiring harness comes through the firewall and then pull the wire under the dash.
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Thank you for the wonderful box tops K! It's under our tree so I have to wait until the 25th to open it.
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The body mounts on the 4wd D21 are about 1.5" taller than the 2wd D21 and the WD21. A 3" BL on a 4wd D21 is the equivalent of a 4.5" BL on a WD21.
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I just now saw this. Nice looking truck (even if it doesn't have a frame). RedneckDave lives out your way and I love playing around in the Hassayampa just West of Wittman. It's easy stuff, but there is a lot to see out there. We should get together with Dave and head out soon. I went out there with Beastpath earlier this year, but the river bed changes with every storm which keeps it interesting.
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HERE is what you need.
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Here you can visit snow and mountains if you are so inclined. Then you get to go back home and it's 70 degrees and sunny.
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I have one I'll let go for $100 + shipping. I had it on my old D21.
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I have seen the VH45 in a WD21 swap and I would strongly recommend against anything like it. You're looking at having to build new frame rails, relocate the firewall and swap out the entire harness and fuel pump. That is after you get all of the drivetrain stuff to mount up which is an adventure in itself. I would personally like to have the VG33ER. Shaping or cutting the hood is much easier than building a new frame.
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Welcome! I met Dave at a trail cleanup this weekend and suggested he head over here for some heckling. The area we were cleaning up is just around the corner from his first two pics. I already warned him about the search function so I don't think we'll have to set the dogs on him for that one
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And as someone who does not believe in an invisible man in the sky
So you're not going to give me my mansion for Christmas?
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Sounds like fun. Count me in with my PM.
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Very cool. I can't wait to see it extensively populated.
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I'm pretty sure that ALL of the D21/WD21 DRUM h233s had the thrust block. The thrust block from the ARB cannot be shorter than the stock unit or the preload would be off. You could get lucky, but I would just grind off 1/8" (I said 1/4" before, but 1/8 will be sufficient) from each shaft and not worry about the block unless you are pulling the diff apart. All three drum third members that I have taken apart had the thrust block. One open from an '87, one lsd '91 and one was an open from a '91. The only third member that I have disassembled from a disc equipped vehicle did not have a thrust block.
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When you swap in the disc axles don't forget you will need to remove the thrust block from the inside of your carrier. If you don't feel like ripping into it you can get away with grinding down the ends of the axle about 1/4" on each side. The disc axles don't need the thrust block for preload since they have two bearings on the outer end of the shaft.
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Effff Yeah! You only missed one thing, WTF is the next challenge? I would have accepted a picture of a spare on the rear carrier. For 95% of us that is the only time a wheel is going to be leaving the ground.
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Sorry. I didn't know that there were rules. It seems that this game will go nowhere fast at the current rate.
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Next: Your pathfinder with at least one wheel off of the ground.
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I really like the Felpro gasket for this application. It should be nearly identical to OEM and it might be cheaper at your local auto parts store. I also like the copper RTV, but the good metal gaskets shouldn't need it. Paper exhaust gaskets are crap.
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Working fine for me all week.
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Neeeeeddd.... just waiting on sourcing a centerlink to send in.
I have at least one spare stock CL if you are interested. I could ship it straight to Grassroots if we worked something out.
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The CVs are not all interchangeable. The older 27 spline CVs bolted to the front diff with 6 bolts in a 3x2 pattern. The newer 28 spline CVs are attached by 5 bolts in a 5x1 pattern. Sometime after 1995 Nissan went back to the 3x2 pattern and 28 splines.
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What would be the most important attribute for off-road abuse? I am suspecting that heat caused by slippage would be the first culprit. In that respect, a ceramic clutch sounds like a great idea. Even if a clutch can lock up 400lbs of torque that doesn't mean that it can operate smoothly when revved and slowly released while crawling up an obstacle. In that situation, control trumps brute clamping force. I would think that a stock-ish pressure plate with an upgraded friction disc would be ideal. Not so much pressure that it gets grippy, but durable enough for torturing it while crawling.
Where did you get that puck Slash?
PS. - The Centerforce stage 2 clutch that I put in my D21 immediately popped my slave cylinder so replace it while you're in there.
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Pitbull - Watagatapitusberry
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I picked up a case of Redline on ebay for around $100.
Thank your Secret Santa HERE
in Off-Topic
Posted
Thanks for lighting up my day K! The flashlights are awesome
Fleurys - That was from me. I had Steeevo send it straight to you so I wouldn't have to ship it twice. I couldn't believe some of those rigs when I saw them in action.