Tungsten

A resonator? I don't even know what that is...

Yeah just making sure Thanks B

D'OH looking through the parts catalog it hit me that I never replaced the tensioner spring, I never knew it was a maintenance item when doing the belt. Am I screwed or what? lol

not critical at all 1. YES 2. Jack up the truck until it doesn't touch and swap it.

Nissan changed the design so I had to get a cap too. My cap is the one with the hoses coming into it so it would not work here. Will the new bottle even fit when it gets here? How do I route it now?

The bottom engine cover... The piece of steel that protects the rods and stuff.

I would say using premium did clean the engine up a bit so consider premium as an alternate to the cleaner bottle. lol Using higher grades did not do anything to my gas mileage on the highway, the engine does waste more gas however because it has to rev more to get speed. I love the VG30E

Ok here is the deal, I only got 2 bolts left in my skid plate for no apparent reason so I went to the dealer and got all original bolts. Now I have no idea where each one goes... Can anyone please point me to a diagram or post a picture? Or at least explain where does each type stick into?

I use 89...just seems better. Since gas goes bad, I think 87 is really like a little lower. If you let 89 spoil, its perfect! lol Also, I get smoother performance on 89 than on 87 but if I put in 87 it works fine. I guess it depends on the gas station too. I tried using higher octanes like 93 and 95, the engine just revs higher to accelerate. FYI, I got 20 mpgs on all octanes.

probably MAF wiggle the wires

I inspected it more closely and it looks like the bottle is developing cracks so I will just replace it.

I'm too cheap to buy a second catalytic converter... lol Instead of the cat, I just have a straight pipe in that section. I went to Doug Thorleys website and found that they have ceramic coated headers available and according to the manual, when they are fully assembled they do not have the catalytic converter in the downpipe (it is optional). Part number is THY-464-2 http://www.dougthorleyheaders.com/products...1/productID/907 According to the notes: Notes * 22 - For Legality under CARB regulations the connector/Y-pipe assembly must be used on vehicles originally equipped with catalytic converter. * 19- Does not fit 5-speed models w/ hydraulic clutch Is this for auto? AutoAnything has them too http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-muffl...87A2302878.aspx I guess this is where Precise1 is referring me to: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=thorley

I got rid of something like that just by cleaning the throttle body. :coffee!:

lower control arm bushings center link tie rods ball joints alignment

Judging from that picture, I say the damage is minor. If the frame is good, it will still drive straight.

This thread is really helping me out right now... lol I would like to say that my truck does not have a catalytic converter in the downpipe, there is one only at the end. Is there anywhere else I can get those Doug Thorley headers? Do they all have that stupid cat in the downpipe?

can you show me a pic?

...and DONE!! FYI, the awkward vibrations stopped after changing the seal

Right there!

Transmission? We don't need a transmission!

Got a quote at the shop today for doing the RMS, came to about $700.

Nope, I decided not to go with a remote filter. There is an ample filter in the transmission so a remote one would be useless. If you have way too many particles down in the transmission, blow out the radiator and cooler as well. Then again if you do have it that bad, your transmission will die soon anyway. For the gauge, its pretty much optional unless you bypass the radiator and you don't have to do a T-fitting, just wire tap it into the A/T computer like it says in the service manual. There is also a warning light on the dashboard to tell you if your transmission has overheated. I decided to not bypass the radiator because I have a brand new aftermarket radiator and I wanted to account for everything like standing in traffic. With the cooler the shifting seems better and I might also be getting better fuel economy. Now for the installation, make sure the lines don't pinch or kink. You will have to mount the cooler high enough so the lines don't kink but low enough so it will clear the bracket and all that other junk. Put the cooler on the right side, where the A/C receiver drier is, this will make the transmission lines easier to access. Do not put it on the left as it will interfere with the sensor which is sitting there up front. If your cooler is 1.5 in thick like mine was, you are going to have to do some trimming. Trim the plastic which is behind the front bumper and trim the grille. If you have that bottom chin plastic, cut a rectangle out for the hoses. If I remember right, the transmission sending line is at the top and the receiving is at the bottom. To be sure, disconnect both lines and the ignition coil, then "bump" the starter to see where the fluid comes out. The way mine is routed: Transmission -> Radiator -> Cooler -> Transmission FYI, if one of your lines look like they will rub against something, put a thicker piece of hose around in that area to protect the line.

big hose clamp around what? where? thank you

make sure the caliper bolts and the torque member bolts are torqued to specification if you loose a bolt, you will get that sound the noise is normal if you have cheap pads, it will go away eventually make sure you still have good thickness on the pads, the rotors could also be hitting the wear indicator tabs

Recently the bottom of the heat shield on the right exhaust manifold rusted off and disappeared and now I'm getting this annoying rattle every time I'm at a stop sign in D. If I put it in N the rattle goes away but anyway its still annoying. Is there a quick and cheap fix for this? I need it to last a few months before I get headers and a better exhaust system.