VW_Factor

My bad. I didnt realize in the little profile it was listed as 94. Its a 93.

I got a single response.. :o Ok. Doing the battery cable trick, once the truck locked its doors on the reattachment of the cable. Ooohhh.. I shut the door I had open. I watched the light (alarm switch in the off position) the light stayed off. I used the fob and it unlocked the doors with a small chirp of the horn. YAY!!! Except.. The light started back in its fast flash state, and that was the end of that. Sooooo.. What things can cause this system to be stuck in a fast flash state.. Where can I look? Where do I go from here?

This is under the drivers seat. Notice, there is a taped fuse holder, with a 5 and 10 amp blade fuse. Notice as well the longer flat "blade" style connector for the module. This is a better view of the connector. Here is the fuse holder thing. I have no idea what this box is for, but I have the extra that was sent for troubleshooting purposes. This is the drivers cargo area.. This is where the doorlock timer thing is (which the dealer told me could cause this issue). However, it operates normally in all conditions (the door locks, etc). This is the fob that my wife and I purchaced from Nissan some time ago. Its brand new (basically, other than me trying to get the alarm working). The switch and light is also pictured here. Does this alarm module look different than what you guys normally have?

Is the alarm supposed to talk ??

Fast flash still stuck.. Module still acts like the fob is getting programmed. After turning the ignition on then back off.. I get no response from the fob nor the truck. If I posted pictures, or a short video of what is going on, would that help you guys help me with this? I mean, this morning, I did at one point (doing the battery cable thing) get the alarm to scream at me, which tells me that it is functioning at least partly. Im not really that concerned with the alarm aspect of it, as much as I am getting the keyless entry to work. I would like that to be functional for the wife.

I'll give that little trick a try. I cant tell if the switch has any effect at all. I cant get the alarm to arm or disarm. The fast flash according to the manual is "waiting to arm". So, I guess its stuck there. I'll try cleaning the switch out as well.

I dunno if this is going backwards or fowards.. Now, when I hold down the button on the module to get to programming mode, the siren makes star wars like beeps and noises.. Its getting weirder by the minute.. As well, the fast flash will NOT go away. Still no response after programming.

Well.. Dagwoodzz was kind enough to send me a part to help diagnose the alarm. I honestly have no idea what the box is for, but its likely not for the alarm system. Its bolted in next to the alarm module. As a test, I left the box unplugged, and the truck started and ran normally. Otherwise.. Seeing these pictures posted here, my alarm module has a different plugin. Looks the same otherwise. (didnt have a nissan sticker tho). Mine has a PCB blade that a connector pushes onto. Not the ATX style connector. Reading the idea about undoing the + term on the battery, I thought.. Hmmm.. I'll give that a shot. However, I just resorted to undoing the ground, as that was easier. I couldnt get the alarm light to come out of the fast flash condition, but about the 5th time undoing and redoing the ground cable, the alarm did light up and scream at me. I guess that means it does work. Sorta.. I still cannot get any response from the alarm after programming the fob. I still cannot get the alarm to get out of the perma fast flash condition. Im about ready to take this truck down to best buy and have them put a Viper in it. This alarm setup in this truck is about the most retarded alarm I have ever worked with.

Here I would assume that you guys would enjoy talking about your trucks, and such. Anyway. Our 93 was gettin about 12mpg. (pretty bad) had very little get up and go, etc. Spent a weekend, did plugs, wires, rotor, cleaned out the intake and the throttle body, removed the silly "boot" thing for the intake (it was there to quiet it down I suppose). Highway now she gets about 21mpg. It feels more powerful and as such is able to pull its own heavy ass down the highway a bit easier. My plans next are either removing the cat or gutting it, and installing a nice Flowmaster muffler, or equivalent. Just seems these engines are so choked, that it seems to help even just unrestricting its breathing a little bit.

Actually the lines are in great shape. They are nice and firm (not hard, like crusty hard) yet still plyable and they do not distort when pressure is applied. Im probably going to end up taking the calipers off the truck completely (putting it out of commission for even moving the thing) and ordering up the new parts, and as mentioned, tell them where they can stick their silly core charge.

The evening this happened, we went to go buy two new calipers, pads, etc.. (Why not just do the whole thing right?) Calipers we have to order. They are only 50 a pop, but with a core of 80 bucks. (ouch). We would have to pay cores before they'd order. A bit outta the price range ATM. I just put a new tranny, etc, into my car so... We got pads, and the rotors are not perfect, however they are not torn up, nor excessively worn. Should have them turned anyway, just because the one is probably warped now. Anyway, I got pads while we were there, and a bunch of cleaner. I was thinking tho. If I got a couple calipers outta the pull-yer-own yard, they are used.. Should I replace them both in this case? I know my passenger side works and its used as well. Thats kinda what Im debating ATM. If we go new stuff, I will indeed replace them both. I hate brakes that will pull, etc, because one is newer than the other.

Just the one side. Suppose I should replace them both however.. But Im wondering if I got one from a yard, how productive that would be. Always kinda taking chances at a place like that.

Well.. I lost my clamp, picked up a new one, and tried to compress it. There is no way that thing is going back in the caliper. :sniff: Kinda disappointing, because I cannot get the caliper back on the rotor now. Shes stuck where shes at for now, I wont even move it for parking purposes ATM. Anyway, passenger side operates normally. Gonna have to either order one up, and be here Monday or Tuesday, or I could spend some time lookin at the pull-yer-own yards around in the area.

Ive never experienced something like this before, especially on something that has rear only ABS. (I always start to forget its a 93 Pathy) Im going to check the other rear brake to see what it is doing. Wife drove it to work, and noticed smoke, etc from the drivers rear. I go to check it out. Stuck brake. Take the wheel off, check it out.. Slides are working great, seems to be the piston. It will compress the pads, but wont let go. I could bang on the caliper a bit with my breaker, and it would let go however. No amount of pressing on the thing would set it free. We limped it home using the ebrake, seeing as how AAA now charges for towing, unless you have their "plus package".. :mad: Otherwise. Most calipers Ive seen that get frozen pistons, look like they've been through hell and high water.. Again this truck isnt abused and hasnt seen anymore than a dirt road in its life (thus far :evil) The caliper looks to be in great shape. A new caliper is only 50 bucks or so, but no one in town has them in stock. Here I am debating, should I rebuild it? Should I take it apart, and try honing the cylinder out? Why would a perfectly good caliper, just suddenly start doing this? Is is possible that the ABS thingy on the framerail isnt letting it go? (But then why will it let go if I bang on it?) Its kinda frustrating. Anyway. Im going to take apart the passenger side and see if it is doing the same thing. Maybe I can find the cause.

All I can really recommend for ya is what my parents years ago did. They shopped SPECIFICALLY for a 4wd vehicle to use as a "dingy" behind their coach. They didnt want to bother with trailers, etc. Just hookup and go. Transfer case being in neutral while towing of course. This goes without saying, that the axles and such will still rotate while towing. Anyway. They did that for many years with their YJ Jeep (92 I believe). Never any damage to anything. I cant say that Pathys are the same in this aspect, but I remember my father didnt care what kind of 4wd, just as long as it had a transfer case to put into neutral.

Sorry for the time without updates.. The fob is good. Picked it up brand new at the dealer here. It wasnt very expensive. This is when I tried to get this thing programmed. Again, it goes through the correct chirps, etc. but when taken from the program mode, it will not respond to the keyfob. So, drivers seat came out, trimmed a little carpet, and checked the alarm box and wiring under the seat. It all looks great. Antenna, grounding wire, connections are great. The way it sits now, the alarm light is in fast flash mode at all times. Truck running, not running, parked, and locked. It just fast flashes all the time. The switch next to the light has no effect. Something I have noticed that may be an issue (maybe someone here knows) is that the electronic locking system works on the passenger side, but not the drivers door. For those who may not be aware of what it is.. When I unlock the passenger door with the key, turn it once, it unlocks just that door, turn twice, and it unlocks ALL the doors. The system on the drivers door doesnt work. Should I look at this, to see if there is an issue? Could this effect the operation of the alarm system? I as well checked the grounding switch, that "checks" to see if the hood is up. It wasnt operating properly. I tried with the "sensor wire" grounded, and ungrounded. It had no effect either way. Still operated the same. Someone has sent me a PM, about the alarm box. Which I may end up purchacing. What I dont know is, if there is something wrong on the trucks end, or if there is something wrong with the alarm end. I wish I could tell you, but Im normally one to work on older cars (VWs in particular) and if something like an alarm gets fitted, I do it myself so I know exactly where everything is, and how it operates. This has me confused. Sometimes with the Nissans, Toys, etc, I just dont understand what they were thinking when they engineered them. Otherwise. Carry on.

1993. I think just the alarm system itself is busted at this point. Ive taken the seat out to get a better look, etc.. For the life of me, Im trying to program this new fob, followed all the instructions, its still a no go. Tried finding a master reset or something. No go. The fob will not unlock or lock doors, and the alarm light is in a constant fast flash condition. Any hints? Ive already checked the under hood plunger. Its a grounding type switch. Ive tried it both ways (to make it wasnt the problem).

Well.. Not a huge problem, however.. Ive heard something about that plunger under the hood. I got that sorted. Following the instructions, I get the alarm to chirp a bit (key off), and I get the 1 second "clicks". Pressing the button on the transmitter gets a tone from the box under the seat, and a small chirp from the horn. Turn back on, then off again. I understand there is supposed to be a loud confirmation blast or something from the horn, which I do not get anything like that. Needless to say, besides a loud blast, everything seems to go ok, but this thing is still not working. How should I trouble shoot this thing? Where should I position the console switch? The power door locks all work, etc.

ug.. I now know the pain of doing a starter on one of these things. That and the high today was like 35 degrees. It needed to be done nevertheless. One thing that you should warn people about however. Those stock starters come with a "shield" of sorts that protects the "plug-in" for the starter. The shield made it impossible (with ice cold hands anyway) to remove the plug. Eventually I did get it unplugged, and got the oil sensor wire off. Got the starter cable out of the way. Unbolted the starter. (I had the tabs unbolted as well as the skidplate removed at this point). The starter would NOT come out of the front. I had to play with it for about 2 hours moving it around to get a phillips screwdriver in there to remove the shield. The shield was keeping me from rotating the starter properly to get it out of the truck. Ugg.. 3 hours down. Beer break. At least the new starter went into position and bolted up in about 20 minutes. Tied up all the loose ends, and she starts quicker than ever. I did find that someone removed the steering stablizer shock from the front end. So the skid plate will stay off until tomorrow, when a new one can be installed (the wife always thought it felt a little funny, I just thought it drove like a truck).. Anyway. Good times. Thanks for the help gentlemen.

BTW. Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it. Im glad that I'll be able to get my wife back on the road, and not have to worry about her getting stranded.

Well.. Verdict. First thing I did was check the cables for corrosion at the starter. They looked just fine, albeit a bit of oil and road dirt. Took the handy 1/2 drive ratchet and tapped on the starter body. No go. Back under, tapped on the solenoid (spelling?). Success! Ok. Solenoid. No problem. Checking prices on full starter assemblies come in at 110, with a 70 core. (ouch, thats from AutoZone). However, they as well, sell a solenoid for merely 40 bucks. These starting problems we experience, is it just the solenoid? Has anyone JUST replaced that and been back in business? As far as the batteries go, I have never seen a batter anywhere near 14 volts without the engine running. 14 or so volts sounds very normal while the engine is running and the alternator is supplying juice. However an automotive battery at rest usually sits just over 12 volts. Hitting it with the starter should net (in a healthy battery) a drop to maybe the mid 11 volt range. When the battery is starting to die, the drop will be low 11s or 10s. Anything below 10 volts when the starter motor is applied then battery is pretty much considered dead. This has been my experience anyway. The only vehicle Ive seen that has ever done something other than this has been my little VW Bug. (which seems to be able to crank over and start with an extremely weak battery)

Not sure where to begin, however.. Simply this. (Edit: Forgot. 1994 XE V6) This morning my wife approaches me that the truck wont start. Go out to take a look. (Bringing the multimeter, thinking maybe the battery is dead, its winter and it may be due to be replaced). Sure enough. Wont start. Battery has plenty of juice. 12.4 volts truck off, 12.1 key on. Hit the starter, and nothing. Lights do not dim, and the meter shows no drop. Something is keeping juice from the starter. Odd thing I did notice this morning however. Trans Oil Temp light is on. (Auto tranny BTW) (Usually comes on with the key at first, but turns off after a couple seconds, or when truck is started) The light will not go out. This got me thinking. If the tranny is overheated, (tripping the sensor) would this cause the truck not to send juice to the starter? For fear of starting the engine with an overheated tranny (or tranny with no fluid?). Is this a safety feature of the truck, or am I thinking about this in the wrong fashion? Keep in mind, the truck is very well taken of, and rarely has seen any offroad service. It has never been "abused" or "rodded" on. It has run excellent the duration of our ownership (6 years now). Truck ran great last night. Never have had any issue with it (other than the battery 3 years ago took a dump). This morning, the ignition switch will not send juice to the starter. Tranny temp light is on, and will not go out, is this related? Other things I should look for?