VW_Factor

Not totally sure about these trucks, however a cap with a weak spring on it, can cause overheating. Something to check anyway.

Here in Salem Oregon, its been a nice week. 45 degrees out and sun. Today there was no sun, but was still warmer. Enough to get out and change the oil, etc. I guess I forgot part of my original question, as to what kinda modifier was needed. Shop guys werent at the dealer today, but the parts guys were. I asked about their LSD modifier. Its no different than what you get off the shelf at Napa was the general response. So, I picked up a jug of 80-90 gear GL5 and 4oz. of modifier (as listed in the service manual). Im hoping its where the noise comes from. It certainly sounds like it. If not, then theres likely some bushings tore up somewhere in the suspension.

After a longish winter. Oil changed, K&N air filter, and got the 50 series Flowmaster installed this morning. Adjusted a few minorish issues. Anyway, pathy has a stock LSD in the rear. In the past month or so, its been making the familar noise when turning sharply (mostly in reverse). I figured the rear diff has gotten low as it seeps at the pinion. Its low, not as low as I thought. Figured I'll change out the fluid anyway. Are these LSDs known to get noisy on old or low fluid? Its a familar sound to me, but just double checkin.

I couldnt really tell if the pipe was a different size at the muffler than what is actually at the tail pipe. Anyway. Yeah. Plan is gettin a muffler fitted, and have new tailpipe back from there.

Yeah, got a little spare money, and going to get an aftermarket muffler. Just the usual Flowmaster, or whatever. I dont have a proper tool for measuring the pipe. Anyone know off the top of their head what the pipe diameter is?

Well now.. Dont we feel silly. The truck sat for some time under our tree. Anyway, it needed a new battery. Upon removal of the battery, and moving the battery cables more than a few inches, revealed an issue. One of the smaller 12v wires from the positive terminal was corroded and broken (under the electrical tape that was wrapped and holding the wires in the bunch). With the old battery in, and just grabbing and moving the wires around by hand, everything seemed well. It was not. Im surprised the truck acted as it did. Apparently this particular wire gave power to the injectors. The ECU was telling the injectors to fire, but they werent. Otherwise. Long story short. Fixed this wire, and installed the new battery, wrapped everything back up.. She fired right up.

Ok. Holidays happened, so. Otherwise.. After talking with a local Nissan expert guy, he informs me that that position sensor in the dizzy if gone bad would alert the ECU (ecu would post the code for it). So, as suggested went after the connectors. Checked most connectors under the hood, and to the ECU itself. All seems well. So, we are going to be replacing the ECU. Anyone have one for sale?

Yes, plan on doing that as well.. Sorry that I didnt mention that in the above post.

In response to three.. Yes I did pull codes. That was the first thing I figured I would try (hoping the computer would be smart enough) It throws a 55 (over and over again) and according to the code chart, that is the computer telling me all is well. I found the PDF format repair manual, and checked through the troubleshooting for the CPS. (Says in camshaft position in there). Pulled the dizzy and checked it out with the multimeter. Checked out fine. Reinstalled the dizzy. Indeed. I havent measured fuel pressure as I dont have a tool for doing that, but I do know there is pressure (and quite a bit of it) It may be perhaps time to invest in that tool. Its pooring rain today, so I either need to pull the coach out of the barn, or just leave it for a bit until the rain passes. Yeah, I really want to stay away from throwing money at the problem, because I know in a fuelie like this, you could put 1k in or more and still get no where fast. Reading through the factory PDF, during a start condition, the ECU pulses each injector twice per cycle until the engine is fired. (like givin her a squirt in the carb). I charged the battery yesterday and put another 3 mins. or so of cranking time into it. Once, it kinda half assed fired on a couple cylinders for a cycle. Giving me a false hope that I had made some progress. So.. I feel next step is get a pressure measurment tool to see if the fuel pressure is within specifications. In the end, its starting to sound more and more like it could just be the ECU just up and failed.

Well.. Now Im just kinda stuck at a point, where Im going to have to start blindly throwing money at this. Unless there are other ways of testing the crank sensor or ignition module on the bottom of the dizzy, Im just going to have to start buying new parts, and hoping it runs again.

Yeah.. Got a little action out of it with adding fluid. Ok. Why cant I replace the module inside the distributor? (or the crank sensor?) Doesnt appear to be built in. Everything appears to be held in together with screws. Anyway..

Man.. Im a sucker for forums.. lol.. Yeah, havin a bit of trouble with the pathy, and these are the guys that beat on them, so they know these things a lot better than I do. Edit : Didnt realize that was you, until you posted that.. lol.

I called it a Ford.. Otherwise.. I'll try some cleaner/starting fluid, see if it sputters a bit like that.

I double checked fuel pressure.. There is definately pressure, and it tastes like gas. lol.. Otherwise, no. I dont know anyone with another pathy to borrow a distributor from. I dont even know anyone else with a truck. (Im the guy everyone calls for help moving, and towing trailers, etc) After checkin all this stuff, and putting the cap back on the dizzy, etc. I cranked it over a few times and it fired on a few cylinders (didnt start) and that was all the life she showed, before the battery gave up. I'm goin to put the battery on the charger here and figure out what to do about a possible dizzy.

All 6 are dry.

I guess as well if its not a simple fix (connectors or relays), I should take a look into the possiblity that the belt jumped a tooth. Think that would confuse the computer enough to not get fire?

I checked a wire at the plug. Front left cylinder (facing the engine from the front,it was easiest to get too in the dark and cold). Pulled the cap off as suggested and watched for rotation, and it does rotate. Means that the timing belt is still attached.. lol. (it was replaced maybe 30k ago, so I was really doubting it broke). So.. Thats the good news.. The bad news.. Well, I still dont know why she wont start. I really wish it wasnt all cold rainy outside. But, now that its light outside, I'll be looking into wiring/connectors around the ignition system. Is there a relay or anything that runs the injectors? If so, which one/ones so that I might be able to switch out a good working relay from something else, to see if she fires up? Then I can just replace the relay. (That would make me happy.. -bounce- )

crappy. Thats not really what I wanted to hear.. Otherwise. The next question would be, is there anyway to check the function of the belt (other than tearing into it?) such as a chevy small block distributor drive off the camshaft? (broken chain = camshaft not turning showing no rotation in the distributor?) Very much sounds like what happened. It makes sense to extent. The only thing that bothers me, is that even if the valvetrain was stuck (broken belt) wouldnt the engine make some sort of indication that fuel and spark are still being delivered to the cylinders? Dont want to say sputter, but when turning over the engine, say an intake valve was stuck open, wouldnt we hear some noise in the intake (piston drawing air, and the throwing air back out?) Edit : Then calling Napa, the belt isnt expensive, but they inform me this is an interference engine. (meaning if the belt breaks, and valves are stuck open that pistons will contact valves, breaking things, and making one hell of a racket.) The engine makes no such noise when cranked over, and didnt make any sudden noises when it quit. So.. Either Napa is full of crap or they have the wrong information and this engine isnt an interference engine.

These V6s have a timing belt, or chain?

RMS leaks a bit I think, but on ours the valve covers are the worst offenders.

Yeah.. Been a while. Thats for sure. Otherwise, things have been going generally well. Gotten some body work done (from being sideswiped, etc).. So, I mean, the truck is generally been a good truck. Its seems some action since, and been "jounced" around some. Tonight, my wife and I are going out to dinner. Hit the driveway to get into the parking lot, and the engine dies. (wtf) It will not start. Turns over, plenty of juice (its got gas), etc, etc.. I dont have tools, etc.. But I do some quick checks. Screwdriver in a plug wire, turn over the engine.. *check* Its got spark. Listen for fuel pump.. *check* Its workin. I dont have tools to check for pressure, but holding the lines and a rubber hose up front on the injection side of the filter while turning the key to the "on" position, and you could feel the pulsation of the fuel pump. So, we have fuel being delivered to the injectors.. Um.. So why arent the injectors firing? (Considering we have spark) Why suddenly, during this little bump into the driveway of the restaraunt, would the injectors not fire anymore? I havent checked relays yet, but will tomorrow. (There are some under the hood, and I tapped on them, but beyond that, its cold and rainy) Otherwise, fuses are good. What are some more commonly loose connectors that I can check out? Or, has anyone run into this issue before?

I fear the day when these shocks stop functioning correctly. My wife really enjoys being able to switch the modes from hard to soft. They are probably very expensive to replace, and likely a dealer only item. If they ever stop working, or stop doing their job properly, a nice set of Ranchos will likely find their home in the suspension of this truck.

Ive tried both boxes with the same results. You can unplug the box from the truck totally and the truck continues to function normally. As for something being aftermarket. I suppose it is possible. Thats why I decided to post up some pictures of what this stuff looks like. I mean. The way its installed, the wiring job, etc.. It all looks factory. I never remembered the thing "talking" in the past either. It really kinda surprised me when it began doing this. Otherwise.. I really need to get something of a working alarm system in this truck. My wife and I have recently installed some nicer stereo equipment, and we need to protect that investment. (I tell ya, installing a radio in these things is no easy task.. lol) So. Im going to head up to Portland (Oregon) today and see what some places up there have for alarm systems. CarToys here in Salem is selling some reasonably priced Clifford systems (250 to 350 range), I just want to shop around some, see if I can find someone with an "open box" sale or something. Anyway, I guess you can kinda tell, Ive given up on this thing. I've spent too many wasted hours trying to get this thing working.

Well. Ive run down and checked all the wiring. (took forever).. Opened the alarm module up. Nothing obvious thats wrong with it (loose solder joints, corrosion, etc). Again, messing with the battery, I got a response. Drivers door was open, reconnected the cable, and the horn spoke "armed", and locked the doors. I shut the drivers door, and the light did a slow flash. Another press of the button garnered "disarmed" and it unlocked the doors. Afterwards, back to fast flash condition, and no response from the system at all. I really have no idea wtf is going on with this thing.

Thats a damn shame. At least he should pass the torch off to someone who wants to carry it, instead of just dropping out like that.