mickyficky

Does anyone know if these hitches are good? I found a Putnam 25080, rated for 5000 lbs. for $90. Thanks

Really!! That's good news!! I have plenty of basic tools and basic skills...I'm goin for it

My steering feels great. No loss of 'power'. Just took my Path in for an alignment and the guy says "your PSP is leaking like a sieve". He quoted me $427 My questions to all the Pathy Masters out there.... 1. Can I fix a leaking pump with decent skills? 2. Can I replace a pump with decent skills? 3. Is it really leaking if it feels fine? 4. Is 427 a normal quote for a new pump? :tonguefinger: Thanks for the help

Thanks all, I'll see if I can afford those Blistens, Sounds like the gas is the way to go..... or maybe it doesn't really matter until you get the lift

I need new shocks, mine are the original parts and feel horrible. I did a search and didn't find anything. My truck is a pretty stock 95 with 31's - no lift. I spend most of my time on the 405 freeway and when I do go off-road its pismo dunes, joshua tree trails, or general easy to moderate SoCal stuff. No huge rock crawling or anything like that. (not yet) So, does anyone recommend either hydraulic or gas (nitrogen) over the other. I like a comfortable ride, but want some performance off-road. Oh yea, I'm looking at Rancho and Procomp...... THANKS

I went to the dunes and bounced my path around like crazy. ever since, my interior lights and door ajar on the dash are flickering on and off. It has gotten progresively worse. A recent post said to change the sensor on the door, but this seems diifferent. It does it all the time, no matter how i'm driving. If it is the sensor, where do i get them ?? Thanks

I have stock 31x10.5 on the 15" legos. No lift. Stock/original suspension (the lame-o adjustable ones). The suspension is pretty much shot, even thought the adjustable part still works. They ride like crap on the street and feel like they are coming apart over small bumps. The front has never bottomed out. The back has only done it in one setting - 40mph on sand dunes w/ a full load of people and gear, going over small, rough, washboard-type bumps. Nothing was damaged, just a little rubbin'

Slick, are you still interested in helping with my trans swap? Is Mr Transmission interested. How much for the tranny in your 88? sammyb, I've never done a clutch swap. Some posts make the auto-to-manual swap seem easy and some make it seem hard. My transfer case is fine, which just makes it bolt on. Other than the trans jack, what specialty tools would be needed? Has anyone ever purchesed a refurbished trans? Ever dealt with phoenixhardparts.com. They have manuals and autos for about 1000.

thanks for all the replies. I do have a 95. Slick, we should talk $ and time.....has Dave done this swap before?? I'm going start looking for a manual just to see whats out there. sammyb, I thought you had an auto up for sale??? Is it really that easy to do the swap, I'm a decent mechanic, but it seems beyond my abilities......

I recently posted that my auto tranny is dead. I've always said that if this happened I would put in the 5-speed I can't do it myself. No space, no jacks, limited tools, and very limited time (not to mention limited experience ). I have read past posts and see that a few of you (sammyb, 88, trailchaser) have done the swap youselves. Has anyone ever heard of having a shop do the swap - even if I find the manual tranny??? Seems like they wouldn't. ---How do I get a manual HELP, I don't want that auto-crapic in my car anymore.......

Thanks everyone, sammyb33, I'm interested for sure...Any idea what it would cost to have it put in..... I'm in california by the way (90292) Transmissions are the one thing I haven't had to deal with..... I don't have the tools and space for a job that big.....

This club sucks Questions for the club???? How long does drive last after reverse goes? Is it better to rebuild or replace? How much do the chain (aamco) places charge? Will someone reliable just come here and put a damn manual trans in it, PLEASE! Thanks,

My reverse went out today, there's nothing there. Drive still works fine.... I've read sooo many posts here that all pretty much say she's dead... How long will drive last usually... (it has 117,000 miles) Frustrated

Woo Hooo!!!!! The new boots and NEW (not rebuilt) joints are on the Pathy!! Friendly mechanis did it quick for $360 and sixer of Newcastle... Heading to the dunes today with a couple trucks full of beer!!! (with a Nissan Titan 4x4 too) Thanks for the help I'll post some pics.... By the way Slick, I think it was just Kragens crappy online parts finder that could't find the quick boots

I'm getting my cv boots done right now.....by a local shop (that I can trust) I also had my local Nissan give me a quote Everyone (exept the dealership) said that you should replace the CV joint when you do the boot. The joint is the part that the boot is protecting- blown boot eventually = blown joint. The joint is only about $25 more and it needs to be taken apart to remove the boot, so why wait...... Nissan Dealership = $280 per side - not including the joint Local Shop = $175 per side - boots and joints There is noooo need to do this at Nissan, but it should be done. The only thing I had them do, for a little extra, was the timing.......

So, I'm back to the quick boots....AutoZone and Kragen say they don't have them for a 1995 Pathfinder......anyone know for sure???? anyone actually use these??? HELP...the minutes are disapearing....

Kragens wesite says they don't have that part for my Pathy I found a guy to do it (friend of a friend that owns a shop) for $180 per axle (including new boot and joint) He'll have it done before the dunes..... Seems a little pricey but A) I'm in So. Cal and the stealership quoted $300 per axle.....

Thanks everyone!! Great tips... As far as the CV boots go, I've been told by two shops that they don't replace the CV boots without replacing the CV joints. Is this common? If so, is there any reason NOT to go out to the dunes with torn boots, let the sand get in there and not care about it, then come back and IMMEDIATELY get the boots and joints replaced??? In other words, do the CV boots protect anything other than the CV joints???? And would letting sand get in there cause damge to other parts??? Thanks again everyone!!! I'll post some pics..... :bow:

I'm heading out to the sand dunes this weekend. Any suggestions? Never done any serious sand driving. Anyone been there? Also, my CV boots are torn... + sand = :oops: How about tose zipper boots as a quick temporary fix?? Can you get those in stores or only online??

woooo hoooooo glad to have you back, thank you for the great site and all your help, even when you've been gone.... it's great to hear that you're doin' well!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got It!

That's sweet, looks good.... For all those that want one, you would still need to weld the mounts to the axle.........

yea, i looked at mine this weekend and either has to go in front of the AC condensor or between the rad and the fan.....mine won't go in between because its sealed and the hoses won't make it through.... I wonder which is best for cooling? 1) in front of the AC it gets more air while moving, but less fan when standing 2) inbetween the fan and rad it gets more fan and less air.... hmmmm ?????

Let me know where you end up putting the tranny cooler. I'm about to install mine on my 95, I was thinking of going between the condenser and the radiator. You said = The diagram shows one hose going to the radiator and another going to the tranny. --- the new cooler won't be cooled by coolant form the radiator, it just bypasses it altogether and is cooled by air, but the old hoses(that get bypassed) are coming in and out of the bottem of the radiator.... Also, where is the tranny drain plug? I was thinking of having jiffylube flush mine....

sunroof hole....where it belongs....