unccpathfinder

IMHO thats bad advice...if you don't set the preload on the bearings correctly then you will be doing it more frequently b/c if its loose its going to waller out the races and if its too tight its going to burn up the bearings...doing it right almost always outweighs cutting corners... it would really suck to overheat a bearing on the highway and have it seize up on you which could possibly induce a rollover...

you can get to almost all the screws I bet they just need to be tightened down...mine was leaking bad from both sides and all the screws had backed out almost 3 full turns...I tightened them down by what I could get to and no more leaks...but its about a 2hr job or so

I'm thinking about cutting a hole inthe firewall and have it come up through the cowl next to the vents or through one of the vents but I havent checked out the clearances for the wipers and I wanted to look into the pressure drops and what not to see if I needed an inline fan to maintain adequate flow...but I havent had time for all of that crap but that was my take on the snorkle... then I got to thinking of how I need to relocate the ECU 1st and possibly build a dry box for the battery and seal up the "vent" for outside air and put in an electric fan with a manual override so I could kill the fan prior to a water crossing and probably try to seal up the doors a little better

Thats what I say...that or I need to just start changing 4wd nissan RMS's...its a PITFA but I would do it for 2k

Well if your doing desert I'd think you'd want to make it 2wd and go with as much fiberglass as possible (fenders and hood) Once you go to 2wd you should be able to get as much lift/travel out of the front as you want...Jim Conner did some Baja lifts for our pathys (hardbody) I've actually got one on my 87...But I honestly think you would be better off with something like an HB where you could go fiberglass all the way around except for the cab (which that might be available) I just dont see the pathfinder being a "baja" style vehicle

There are tons of write ups here and 4x4parts.com on how to make or where to get the tool...or how to cheap out and do it with a punch and hammer

patience is too...let it soak in...you can also use the torch method just watch out for the fuel lines... if you dont break any your lucky as hell...but y pull them off at the manifold and not the collector its only 3 bolts on either side and if you break one it wouldnt be as bad to fix... just use lots of extensions and get it from the bottom side with an impact (yes impact gun is better on exhaust bolts you have less of a chance to break them and keeping the amount of heat down in them...I didn't believe it until my mechanic buddy proved it to me...I broke 2 of 3 he broke none)

yep jim connor had red coils with blue Tbars...

this may or not help...but have you tried pulling any codes? or is it not throwing a light? let it idle for like 5 mins to see if it will throw a light if you havent done that yet...it may or may not shed light on the issue

we started burning on the one but it made some nasty black smoke and left some nice tar on the concrete so we broke out the press

had that problem so I never line up the lines just count teeth and make sure the belt is facing the right way outwards

I guess I should have said...dont pull the dizzy out...just remove the cap...

yes you need a press...to get mine out we used my buddies grandfathers manual press with about a 2ft torque arm on it and they came out fairly easily

TDC on a compression stroke...you may also just want to verify that by the potion of the rotor on your Dizzy...

all highway driving i'd get between 18 and 21 to the gallon (21 being at like 55mph constant) around town it was like 15-17mpg and depending on where you are couldnt detergents that keep the gas from freezing cause you to get less mileage? I may be pulling that out of my ass but I thought I saw a show or someone talking about it or something...

12 deg pas that...so just after hte 3rd marker from the left (without going and looking at the truck) ...also check all the plug wires are good and tight on both ends (dizzy and plug) along with the coil

Think I found what you were wanting to do: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;hl=coil+over

That notch doesnt mean anything unless you verified it with #1 being at TDC... but I am not 100% on this but I think its something like 13deg (or maybe its 16 deg) BTDC but I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong on that...

no problems...I actually just remembered someone was going to "build a kit" with coil overs about 5 or 6 months ago on here...I don't remember who it was but they had a system in the working and were looking for interested patrons...maybe I can find this link tonight if I remember and post it up

Since you are in spain I don't know if you have heard or seen the website www.4x4parts.com but they have a forum there with tons of SAS (solid axle swap) that may give you an idea of what has been done...and there is a lot of information there on this topic

I got mine at advance autoparts they were WARNs

bushing on the Tbars???maybe the dust cap covers but I dont recall any bushings on the Tbars but I have been wrong b4 possibly an engine mount? or broken exhaust hanger...is it a vibration you feel or hear? or kinda both? I know the exhaust runs right under the drivers side and could possibly rattle around and hit the frame/floorboard under that area or even be the heat shields rattling

I've done it several times without pulling any CV's completely out of the spindle...just pulled the hub and snap ring...pulled the top and lower BJs replaced the lower then replaced the top the 1st time I did this it took about 6 hrs but we did rotors pads calipers lines and a bunch of other stuff...but I have replaced all 4 of my BJs in less than an hr on my 95... now one problem I didd have was the fork not being thick enough so I placed a wrench under both sides of the fork prior to knocking it under the BJ and this gave it enough height to pop it loose... if you run into the issue of the taper spinning and not tightening up...get it as tight as you can and place a jack under the lower BJ and jack it up some or you can put the wheel back on and set the truck down then jack it back up...this should seat the BJ and allow you to apply the proper torque

which method did you have to take...just to help someone in the future possibly... glad you got it to work

the most stolen cats nowa days are off of any of the 2007 emission diesels well its not a cat its the ATD but yea i heard about this about 2 years ago and folks were going through parking lots and just sawsalling off cats...i guess its better than steeling copper out of your A/C system...