unccpathfinder

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=headers http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...headers++manual http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...headers++manual http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...headers++manual as I said I have a set on my MT and so do JJ, MWS & slick has them on his MT...so theres a good chance they fit...

the cable isnt hard to change...jack up rear end and set it on jackstands...remove the tires and brake drums (if they're stuck thers 2 tapped holes on each one that can be used to "jack" the drum loose... Then follow the 2 cables up to where they join the single cable and loosen that up/remove it...that should release all the tension on the rear cables and you should be able to remove them fairly easily I would do it myself unless the shop is going to do it for like $40

I'd check local laws B4 tinting and/or carry a blanket to drape over whatever you dont want someone to see...

My 95 started doing that the last time I was back east...I didn't get time to look into it but I assume its what 88 said full of carbon...and with my EGR function SES light it only comes on periodically but goes off a couple of mins later and will be off for a while and then come back on so I assume the valve is sticking b/c of buildup

yea you have to get the hog head up there and then swing the crossmember in place...but dont tighten anything down all theway until its in there...2 people make the job easier but it can be done with one...

I've got a set of thorleys on my 87 which is a MT...the only thing is my 87 has a 95 engine that came out of an auto...there was a topic on this a while back I think with mwsextreme on the difference between the autos and manuals and if they would fit or not...

try searching theres tons of topics...but doug thorley's are your best bet...pacesetters are another option...if you do not get headers be sure to replace all of your stock studs the OEM's tend to break and then warp the manifolds

if its a MT make sure you hit the release button B4 you take the key out...if not I bet it still thinks the keys are in the ignition...my 87s key falls out of the ignition and if I dont hit that button to release the key its makes annoying noises

its not that bad...its just a matter of being careful and paying attention to details...I've done quite a few and have yet to screw one up and my 1st exposure to anything major was when I did my WP (neglected to change the belt) then after the belt broke I got to learn the internal work too which sucked but gave me that confidence on doing more things... The only specialty tool you need is a "crows foot" style harmonic balancer puller the rest is basic sockets and screwdrivers

wow thats real bad...thats like hospital temps man hope thats doing better...and i'm assuming those aren't degC

wowzers...thats a lotta miles on 1 belt...its not fun if you snap it...when I did it in my 87 at like 125k I ate 3 valves...this weekend I'm doing a frontier that just drove cross country with 125k on it towing a trailer and with the whole family...glad his luck is better than mine... and yes the VG is an interference motor unlike most of your domestic engines...what this means is the valve is in the cylinder during an exhaust or intake stroke...if the timing belt breaks the timing between the valves and pistions is off and causes the minimal damage of bending a valve from the piston hitting it...the damage can get much worse from there...

i'll have to find a picture tonight when I get home from work...I know I"ve got one of that area when I did my home made bodyliners...

if you push the lock down or up it would lock or unlock the rest of the doors (at least in my 95) but if drivers door was open mine would automatically unlock I think to keep you from locking your keys in the car

the PO had cross threaded my #6 and I just kept it that way and got it the best I could in there and it was ok...when I had to pull the heads after breaking the timing belt I fixed the threads for gap the parts store or dealership to verify

ouch...thats no good hope you feel better soon

yea slip yoke goes forward...this is where the greas fitting is...also a good reverence the larger diameter of the shaft goes to the rear and the smaller diameter goes fwd

the diff should go in no problem with the shaft out...but then again the exhaust was the last thing I hooked back up...since I wont get home late I"ll run out and check it right fast...

I have never used the "nissan tool" but I think I may have 2 of them laying around...send me a PM and i'll search for them and I could send one to ya for the cost of shipping if I have them still.

i believe the slip yoke goes fwd...but if I remember tomorrow I"ll check

sounds like normal back pressure to me depending on how loud the "pop" is

if your mechanically inclined do it yourself...wheelman paid me like $300 to help him do brakes rotors ball joints and bearings... Maybe if you found a member in your area that would be willing to help you could get the parts and spot them some cash to save you some $

The inside of the doorjam should tell you stock sizes available...you can also use the search function on here to find some more information...Ibelieve the newer models have been covered somewhere...

haha well I dont have pix of my finger from yest but I was drilling through some .032 sheet metal and didnt have it clamped down and I got a 3" slice abo ut 1/4" in on my left thumb...it took an hr to stop bleeding and that long to convince my boss I didnt need to go to the hospital. I think its better to get it in and run it to remove the factor that you may have messed up the T-belt in the event that the engine doesnt run unless you saw it run on a test stand or in a truck prior to buying...even after driving wheelmans truck after his wreck I waited to do the t belt until after it was in and had been test driven in my truck...I guess its up to that person

ahh see the RHS I pulled those 2 bolts nad left that brkt attached to the diff then the one on the front left side I undo from the diff b/c for me it was easier to rotate the diff without the brackets on but it may be easier for you the way you did yours

Be careful with that and dont get your fingers under it...its bad if it falls on them...the best luck I've had was setting it on a jackstand with the snout facing the ground and then take a jack on the pumpkin and jack it up into place and put the eye bolt in then move the jack to the snout and jack it up to get the side bolts in...its a lot easier with 2 people and a lot easier prior to dropping it on your finger (gave me the nervous factor every time I'm under it now) Good luck links to Pix of my finger(dont let it scare you though I shouldnt have been out there doing what I was doing for the amount of time I was doing it and plus it was on a botched removal during the strip job on a 95): http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...9897_9_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...9897_8_full.jpg