unccpathfinder

to a thief i think tent means theyr'es something in here I dont want you to see so they'll break in anyways...my roommate never had problems iwth his car until he tinted the windows then they broke in and stole all of his tools and sub left the amp and head unit so we think he walked out on them

man its been so long...I remember a big bolt turning and pissing me off and not being able to get to it...i think I may have crammed a flat tip back there to hold it in place while I nailed it with the air gun but I cant remember for sure what I did to fix it but I had the same problem ( I assume this is the splined part that goes through the LCA? unless your talking about the 10MM bolts and I had to use 2 10mm open end wrenches to get those hold the back bolt and slowly turn the front nut...

check as mentioned above...also check the + lead from the starter to the battery...I had an issue where it rubbed through and my truck would start and drive and then studder/kill out and then crank right up...until it finally arced for good and melted the battery which was some scary @!*% and I'm glad my fast acting saved the truck but i'm lucky I didnt get the piss shocked out of me

don't bolt it down or attach it...they're in your truck already so if they want it they could give a @!*% about the vehicle they're pulling it out of they will break anything and everything its attached to to get it out...they possibly stole another radio that was missing a faceplate and needed your faceplate to work or they did it ot just piss you off... how did they get in btw? I've never been able to get a slim jim to open the pathy...I've opened almost every other car out there with one but could never get into the pathy

This is all probably going to take a good 2 years of work...I still have to finish getting the pathy frame and body modeled up and see what I do to optimize lift for fit and function but B4 I get into any hardcore design I figured I'd get some of the "pro's" opinion I have also thought about creating something similar to the Xterra Calmini SAS kit for WD21's b/c I do have a dana 44 sitting in my garage that I'm selling for someone but I just cant get it sold for the price he wants...I'm also looking at CL's and possibly other improvements to the pathy but I just need time and opinions b/c I have the ability to run the calcs and create the models/working prints With this all being said does anyone know of anywhere you can rent a 4 point scale...by this I mean a scale that will allow me to see what the static load at each tire is to help locate the CG fwd/aft and inbd/outbd OR a mobile scale that can handle up to about 1500lbs b/c I could take a weight at each wheel individually Ohh yea and 88 I would incorporate the same type damper setup like nissan has in the stock body mounts

theres an old cliche, a picture is worth a thousand words...after pulling him out I trudged through it no problems and took trail lead...he later sent me through a hole he was stuck in for 2 days...i slowly went through it and thought I had ripped everything out from under the truck since I bottomed out several times but still managed to keep enough momentum to crawl through it...he cused me up and down b/c he was running a 6" susp lift and 33's against my stock 31s also notice that was the 1st hole on the trail... so the pathy is nice and white after pose shot:

damn that sucks...glad your alright...One thing you may consider if you plan to get another pathy or have a place to store/strip your R50...you may be able to buy it back from the insurance company fairly cheap and then part it out to make more $ off of the total cost they would give you back into it

we've got one of those guys but I hate filling it up b/c I drink so much water...I probably drink close to 2 gallons a day (I drink 6-8 32oz glasses at work and then probably 4 more at home) But I am getting car covers for the camry and possibly the pathy but i'll probably go ahead and modify our fence to have a bigger gate so I can get it in the backyard and not have to woryr about the sprinklers blowing on it...

both of my starters inadvertently lost that tube...I haven't experienced any problems as of yet...

I find it easy to believe that with improper welding techniques and heat treat of the steel post weld that the frame would break way b4 the weld would it typically happens that way... I got 5 mins so this is what I had in mind for basic starters granted I know a couple of the mounts would need to be way different than this its just a concept...red and brown are the side plates brown has no holes...the yellow is the close out and green is the frame I'll elaborate more on the previous comments but I've gotta get going...but I'm still thinking with 3-5 bushing style bolts through the frame will be sufficient over welding or combine those with the welds for a failproof "joint" had time in a commercial go do another concept for the other mounts...I know some have that semicircle offset pad (i think its the 2 middle body mount points or maybe the rear 2...I have to look at it again sometime

Sweet I was thinking vinegar...I'm going to try that and some of this stuff that I got that is supposed to be paint friendly but we'll test that out 1st Thanks for the inputs...stupid water..my neighbor had this table top fountain that had the fountain with a "granite" ball on it that rotated from the water...well after 1 week it stopped working and clogged up due to all the buildup from the tap water...and just think i'm drinking this crap

So as the topic title says...my new camry and the pathy got plastered with water from our and the neighbors sprinkler system so when it dried it left what I believe to be calcium deposits on the paint/windows well I washed both and as soon as it dried the spots were still there...I've tried several things to get it off and the only thing that works is a razor blade...which I'm afraid of scratching the glass and that doesnt help the paint issue... Thanks

well if the tranny is busted I would drain the tranny and pull the rear driveshaft and drag it on the rear tires if you are renting the trailer...if the tranny is good then you could do the same thing or just disconnect the driveshaft and tie it up (this keeps the tranny fluid in the tranny)

Well that is my day job so for me it's just a matter of finding the time, figuring out the design loads nissan used under what conditions, Locating the stock CG which I'm going to make a guess is right about where the handbrake is maybe a little FWD and inspect how they transfer loads to and from the body Last night I thought I would also have to create electrical extensions for things like the fuel tank sending unit but maybe not along with bumper and radiator relocation brkts.. that said even a 3" kit I think would be safer that either welds to the frame or uses 3 or 4 steel bushing you drill and press into the frame run the bolts through and attach the steel box on top with shorter fastening bolts from the "frame" to the body in the event of a roll over...this all came about from a buddy of mine rolling his HB and all the bolts sheared from his body lift and the cab separated from the frame...he walked away but thats something you dont really want WTF u talkin bout Willis? haha no sway bars would stay in place and could possibly be improved...I need to break out my RVD book and start going through the suspension on the pathy and see what could be done to decrease roll at an increased CG

So about 2 or 3 months ago I was sleeping...dreaming of building up the pathy some more and hitting the trails...so I started thinking that all the body lifts use some sort of hard spacer block which got me to thinking about welding "lift blocks" to the frame...My rational behind this is in with the body lift bolts you leave the realm of bolt shear and get into bolt bending so if there was structure welded to the frame with either the stud prewelded into the box for the nut on the inside of the cab or vice versa...the alternative to this would be to have about a 1" hole along somewhere on the closeout box that would allow you to insert a wrench to install a nut... So I think with this you could go with a 4-5"BL to squeeze bigger tires under while maintaining more integrity in the joint between the body and frame...granted this is going to make the roll over moment of the whole truck a lil more extreme but the pathy seems to have a pretty good stance and I think < 6" BL with < 6" SL it would still be pretty manageable onroad Opinions/suggestions welcomed Anyone know of anyone at nissan that could provide me with design/proof loads...i htink thats a fat chance but figured i'd throw it out there...

Headers, snorkel, on-board compressed air and a ready welder, CB, spot lights (front and rear)...Kitchen sink nah in reality it looks like you've hit all of that...if you havent done a Tbelt/water pump you better do that 1st

make sure the lowest timing belt cover bolt is tight...I've had 2 back out and make a scrubbing/squeeling metal to metal sound...then the ear broke looks on both had the TB cover hitting the back of the pulley so I had to form the TB cover over the broken off ear to keep it from scrubbing...just a suggestion to check

Tbars (this includes the Xmember they connect to IIRC...but I know all 3 swaps/clutch replacments we dropped it) have to come out along with exhaust and driveshafts

dont use the spray undercoat...it stays gummy and would be bad for the insides...I have used the dupicolor or whatever brand walmart sells roll on bedliner...its great stuff b/c I gave it some duribility tests B4 Ipulled the body off the frame of my 64 scout and the stuff is awesome as long as your surface prep is good...that means knock the paint all the way back at least to the primer and get all of the "smoothness" out of it...other than that roll like 3 or 4 coats on and its good...if you end up using a primer make sure its compatible with the paint or it will just peel right off I think this stuff was like $35 a can from wally world

haha Yessir...my cousin had EFFEd up the seperater (sanded it with like 60 grit) so I tried to buff it down and texture it and it didnt work so I had that left over from the 87 and covered it with that... I should have mentioned that in that 1st pic you can notice that the caro light is dropped down...thats a custom built speaker box with 4 3-1/2" speakers and there were tweeters added up on the A pillars

I have had many VR go out in the 87 pathy...If you have the right bits to take the ALT apart you can replace it from what this mechanic told me but my alt was still under warranty so I took it back and got it replaced...now I think it would be completely practical to have an "external" VR but I'm not sure how exactly you would hook it up but to me it seems trivial that it would go between the battery and output post on the alt

thats sweet...I kept a piece of the floor out of the 95 I stripped and was going to weld it in so it kept the ridges of the bed but that looks good...

"custom" interior on my 87: Headliner in 87 which is now even more modified it has the 95 headliner covered with the same material: and the additions that were on my 95:

check the wires at the tranny? I'm not 100% sure what drives those lights but its got to be a sensor maybe on a common plug that has corrosion or something

I'm in the middle sorta...some people call it socal some people call it mid cal...I just call it BFE in the middle of the mojave desert... Umm yes smog...if I can find a way to keep my NC inspection up to date I"ll just keep the NC plates on it like my 87...but with it its under the radar...NC started this thing 2 years ago if it was inspected then...then if you were over a year in getting it inspected then they canceled your registration and charge you $250...well I never got my 87 done so I can keep my plates up to date...I'm really waiting to see what they make my buddy do with his 2002 fronty...he just moved here from Belguium and his fronty has FL plates.. sorry to thread jack...