OR99.5Speed
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Posts posted by OR99.5Speed
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gees guys seems abit strange that people were so quick to jump to the hydrolocked story..... ok i did read the wheels locked apon a push start, but a seized engine from tb cleaner, pfffft.
as for the tb cleaner, ive dumped a whole cans in numerous cars before, yeh there hard to start after, but hold the 'go peddle' flat to the floor and crank. and they always start.
sort of seems to me if you gone digging in to tb you may have disturbed some wiring. and the computer is not letting the coils supply spark. if this is the case this offers a very simple explaination for the wheels locking upon a push start, being a fairly new pathy the engine will have good compression, once the clutch is released & in gear the wheels lock due to compression of the engine where normally there would be spark to kick the engine over.
tip for noobs: dont leave the igintion on, for a petrol engine, for extened times - no good for the coil packs.
hope it all works out for the best in the end
Yeah, I've done TB cleaner before in my 1998 4Runner before. It cranked a few times but turned over with a big cloud of smoke from the tail pipe. When my brother and I were in the engine bay there were old shop towels from other mechanics still sitting next to the intake! Also there was a cap from a container of oil! I swear some of these guys do such sloppy work!
I would cream my pants if all I did was disturb some wiring...and there sure is a hell of a lot of wiring just connected to the intake. But my truck still has a distributor. I'll take another look at the intake wiring and see, but I was under the hood for a few hours today and nothing popped out at me. I'll download that PDF again and see what wires are which before calling for the tow truck.
I'm going to also go by the local community college to see if there are any Auto Shop classes I can take this summer. I want to learn so badly but screwing up is really, really expensive. If it turns out I blew the engine or something crazy I'll probably end up in a new Mazda 3 or something. I'm hoping for the best.
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Yea...
You said that you took out only 5 plugs when repeatedly it was pointed out to remove all of them. You said nothing shot out and the combustion chambers were dry. How in the hell were you able to see that? You didn't crank the engine for anything to shoot out. You really don't need much to hydrolock your engine... in most cases 1 ml would do it. I am surprised that you're so quick to give up and be ready to be charged by mechanics through the roof without doing the extra work and troubleshooting yourself.... Bah.. it's not my money but yours.
Yeah, it seems like I'm just wasting away money and maybe I am...but was no way in hell I could get to that 6th plug...did you read about my story with the 5th? I'm so not technically oriented it's depressing...it was a huge feat for me to even take off the intake hose. I don't want to screw up anything else and I'm already afraid I've killed my engine.
I don't mean to be rude and not take your advice or anything. I'm just saying I will only do more damage that only a mechanic can undo.
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Update:
This morning my Dad and I went out and took 5 plugs out.
The plugs are 5k miles old.
There was no cleaner in the cylinders, nothing shot up and nothing was under pressure. There was, however, a lot of carbon buildup on I think cylinder #4 (if you are in driver's seat, the plug on the right closest to the front bumper).
We are just going to get it towed. I will need to ask the mechanic that I go to if he can do it. I really don't want to go to the dealer, because I'm sure they will either be so damn expensive or just say "Yeah, you need a new engine".
Any more thoughts? We tried kickstarting it again and it the engine is still seized. It will not start with the starter either. I'm really scared on this one and it is a possibility that I won't have a car...
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Cool, the towel is a good idea.
Okay, one last question? Where is the crankshaft nut that I have to turn once teh sparkplugs are out?
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So how does this gameplan look:
Knowing that the engine has ingested an awesome amount of liquid I'm going to say that all of the plugs have to come out. I need to hand crank the engine over for a half dozen revolutions or so. Then with the plugs still out crank the engine over for 10-20 seconds with spark and fuel disabled (by taking out the fuel pump relay) until the air coming out of the plug holes feels dry. Then reinstall the plugs, reenable spark and fuel and try to start it. The battery could be pretty low by now, so it would be a good idea to put it on a charger overnight before attempting to use the starter.
Any thoughts?
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Was I supposed to have tools underneath my rear cargo floor to take out the 6th plug? I don't have those anymore, and I could have sworn I did last summer!
I'm gonna take out the 6th plug so I don't bend an rod.
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Unbelieveable!
Sorry to sound lazy, I'm not when the Pathy is on the line, but how important is it to remove the 6th plug? I don't have the tools under the rear floor like I'm supposed too.
Here's a fun story:
August 2005- The day before I drive with Dad from Atlanta to IU for my freshman year I buy 6 NGK Iridiums to install. The first 4 go really quickly, #5 is a bit tougher due to the crappy tools I have. So when I put the socket over the plug, it falls from top of the hole onto the spark plug. This was just before noon. So now I'm freaking out, and I try getting my hand in there to pull it out, (you know how deep the plugs are in). So I go to the hardware store to get a long, extendable magnet and a pole thingy with mirror. The magnet gets the socket out, so I reattach the socket back onto the ratchet to get unscrew the plug. Well, for some reason the socket is not catching the plug. The plugs are in so deep I can't see in there even with a mirror and a flashlight. So I go to a mechanic running on five cylinders, and he has no idea of what happened. So, being 5:00, I call a dealership and set up an appointment early in the morning. Keep in mind I have a 600 mile drive to do today. I get to the dealer and the mechanic takes it in. An hour later I'm called to the serivce desk. I'm thinking that the truck is ready to go. No no, the problem is that the porcelain shattered when the socket dropped, surrounding the threads. The socket also bent the metal rod inside the porcelain, so there was no way to get a socket around the plug. They called a guy in with special tools. Another hour later, they got the porcelain out and were able to BREAK THE PLUG IN HALF!!! They changed the 6th plug too and only charged me for an hours worth of labor! Team Nissan of Marietta, GA saved my A$$!
When I had my 4.0 Jeep, it was the first vehicle I had with over 20k miles. It had Bosch Platinums, but I wanted the original Champions in there. So I bought the Champion Truck series, but they were a little longer than factory. Well, the electrode hit the top of the piston (showed a lot of carbon on the electrode) so I loosened them a bit. I don't know what the hell I was thinking. On the way up to boarding school, #4 plug fell out on the highway, taking the wire with it! There was a loud popping sound, like a tire was flat. Long story short, I had to call my dad (an hour away) to take me to the auto parts store the next town over. We got a wire set and changed it on the highway at night. That 4.0 is tough as nails.
Another time the Jeep overheated. I was in the fast lane as coolant was spewing everywhere (the radiator tanks seals had failed) so I, like an idiot, drove it to the Jeep dealer a half mile away instead of pulling over. The temp needle was in the red past 260 and the "Check gages" light was chiming. I shut it off just in time. The dealer raped me for $1000 for a new radiator and serp belt. They didn't even change the oil! The 4.0 was just fine after that. No head gasket issues, no complaints whatsoever. And it consistently got 20 MPG.
I overheated my Mom's 2003 Grand Cherokee 4.0 when I spun into a ditch. The Jeep hit a ridge that busted the radiator and spilled allof the coolant. I didn't know the radiator busted at the time, I just thought there was a bent bumper cover. I left it running waiting for the Good Samaritan with a Trooper and a tow rope to get me out. We heard this boiling sound, and sure enough it was the Jeep. We switched it off, and of course, the 4.0 suffered no damage. Best engine ever to come from Chrysler.
So, I don't like changing anything, but I want to learn. I can't tell you how frustrated Dad is, because whenever I come home I always start wrenching and end up immobilizing my car. EVERYTIME!
Thanks!
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Now I get it, turn the key, stupid!!!
So what will the engine be doing at this point? Trying to turn over but spraying cleaner out of the plug holes? Will I ruin my starter?
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Jesus.. the whole can... that possibility didn't even cross my mind.
I'd just take out all (even the bitch one) sparkplugs and crank it by starting the ignition..... just make sure nobody's leaning over the engine while you're doing it.
Haha, you underestimated my stupidity, didn't you...big mistake!
What you are saying makes sense...remove the plugs.
But then you say crank it. Are you saying crank it using the key, therefore using the starter?
Or do I crank it by turning the nut on the crankshaft pulley?
Or can I simply kickstart the car like we tried before?
Thanks so much for the help! :bow:
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Pull the spark plugs and turn the nut on the end of the crankshaft with a socket. If there's fluid in your cylinders, It'll come out the spark plug holes.
So where is this nut? Is it at the front of the engine? Do I need to remove anything to get to the nut?
What I was hoping would happen is that once I remove the spark plugs, enough fluid will shoot out of the holes so I can put the plugs back in. Can I just try another kickstart instead of turning the crank if I can find the nut?
Sorry for being such a car repair n00b! NPORA rules!
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Sweet guys, thats what the guys on the other forum were thinking too, that the engine is hydrolocked.
When you say "if fluid present then crank, by hand, to get rid of the fluid..." what do you mean? How do I crank by hand? Where does this fluid go?
Could there be any damage to the engine? I know hydrolocking an engine by, say, driving in a river bend valves, etc. but being that the motor never ran with the cleaner in it there shouldn't be any damage. It never turned over.
And BTW, it was a whole 20 oz can!
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Okay, so we left it sitting overnight.
We tried to kick-start the car in First, Second, and Third. The engine doesn't appear to be turning at all. When the clutch is let out, the rear wheels just lock. The battery is good and headlamps are bright. We tried ot jump start with cables from a running car and the starter motor does not turn.
If it were flooded, wouldn't the engine try to turn? The battery is a 10k mile old Optima Red Top, so it should be strong. Thanks.
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Okay, I searched for where the fuel pump relay is and couldn't find anything. I also looked at teh PDF in teh R50 section but didn't see where it was.
So, uh, where is the fuel pump relay?
Sorry for being a total n00b! NPORA rocks!
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When this happened, I also posted it on www.bimmerforums.com.
I am 4500 RPM
This is what they said:
Your thoughts on what they said?
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But why have gauges when you can have idiot lights?
Your average inDUHvidual doesn't want to worry about pretty numbers and needles. I mean, good god man, they might actually have to THINK. -thnkboutit- Haha, but if they had the functioning oil pressure gauge they would come on the forum and ask why when they press the gas the pressure goes up. They think there is something wrong with their gauges! Jeep switched their gauge to switch that read abot 40 PSI under pretty much all conditions due to the massive volume of people bringing their Jeeps in under warranty and asking for a "new" sending unit.
But then again, people who buy cars without a tach probably don't care about changing the oil either.
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What does "mushy" mean?
Is the handling mushy, where it rolls a lot in turns?
Or is the steering mushy, where there is a lot of play and it is really vague?
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I'm with you on that one Filthy! My old Jeep ZJ had oil pressure and voltmeter! It's hard living with out those!
But imagine the Echos, Focuses, etc. with no tach! All they have is a speedo and gas gauge! :confused:
Thanks man!
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Yeah that's what we are gonna do in the morning.
Luckily it's parked facing downhill!
Correct me if I'm wrong:
Key in the ignition in the "ON" positon
Clutch is pressed
Shifter in Second
People pushing from behind, once at ~5 MPH, let out clutch
So it starts just like that? :help:
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The ignition was on to play the radio while I was doing this...is that a problem?
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If it was flooded it still would crank. If it cranks but doesn't catch then it may be flooded, you can disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank it for a good few seconds (it may even fire up until it dies of lack of fuel)... then connect the fuel pump relay again.
Well the symptoms are similar to a dead battery. I actaully may have killed it...
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It seems like the truck is flooded with fuel. We stomp on the gas and try to start but it still doesn't crank. Same thing when we open the throttle body cable.
If the truck is flooded with fuel, do we just let it sit for a while?
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No we didn't disconnect the battery. The battery has juice and all of the lights, chimes, etc. work.
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Help! My Pathfinder won't start! We just unhooked the intake to get to the throttle body. We sprayed TB cleaner into the intake manifold which cleared out the carbon build up. The car was off when we did this. Now the car wont start. It doesnt even crank. What do we do? I'm an idiot!
Please help!
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Because those Xterra driving bastards on the above mentioned board ask me to park my pathy BEHIND the building at coffee meets...
They started it. JERKS.
Wow, are you kidding? Just wait for them to call your Pathy a CaR50 and then show 'em up! I'm sure you'll use the winch helping out some of the webwheelers when y'all really do go off-road!
Help! Pathy won't start after TB cleaning!
in The Garage
Posted
Yeah, I didn't knowingly unplug anything, but that could be the case.
When you turn the key the symptoms are similar to a dead battery, but the battery is fully charged. We didn't even go near the battery.
Are the sensors I should look at all on the intake? I know there are a hell of a lot of wires there but I don't know which is which and what I should be looking at.