OR99.5Speed
-
Posts
554 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by OR99.5Speed
-
-
I can't answer your question, but will say that my Pathfinder is getting the clutch replaced as I type this my a mechanic. I feel for you, there was no way my buddy and I could do this job with the T-case involved. Good luck!
-
Okay, my clutch just went out on my 1999.5 with 100k miles. I have has this problem too for a while, in all seasons and temperatures. I will try to put it in first at say a stoplight and it will refuse, so I typically run it to fourth say and then try again. Reverse sometimes has this same problem. I am relieved to hear this is a clutch problem.
Is your clutch not as smooth and light as it used to be? Does it engage at a different spot in the pedal travel? You clutch may be worn but not to the point of slipping yet. When these symptoms started, I had about 92k miles.
-
Do you have the factory housings in your bumper? Or do you have the black covers where they would go?
-
Too cool!
-
I have a pair of Hella 500 driving lights, personally I think they are excellent. They do not have the range of my Kc daylights, but that is because the daylighters are 100watt spots. They have excellent spread and a distance of about 1000ft, relatively. The Hellas run for about $65.00 and are about 5 inches in diameter. These lights are not rectangular though, but they will probably give your car a cool rally look
. I would post some pics, but cardomain seems to be down.This is a site with info and pics, but I would not buy them from here:
http://www.autobarn.net/hel500higper3.html
OR
If you didn't have a budget, Warn has a series of lights that can be driving or offroad spots with a flick of a switch. I think those are pretty cool, but I have never like the look of their lights. They are kinda futuristic and transformer-like. I really like the idea though!
-Lex
I have heard of people with the Hella 500s swapping in the KC Daylighter bulbs and relays and VOILA, a very bright light on the (relatively) cheap! Try it, that would seem like the best bang-for-the buck solution!
-
well they totalled it because of the airbags deploying. so there going to give me between 8 and 9 k to get a new car. what shall i get!?!?! iim not sure if i want another pathy because i think haviung a truck would be a bigger advantage to me
They are giving you how much!?! Thats a pretty generous settlement, count yourself lucky.
Here is from when I bought mine if you go the R50 route:
For that money, I would buy an E36 BMW. Just make sure you have a little bit of change left over. Or you could buy a 3rd gen Toyota 4Runner, I miss mine so much!
Possibilities abound! Keep us posted!
-
Yeah, I didn't even think to ask about a warranty. His labor is way cheaper than the repair shops in town (he's about 10 out) and was kinda suggesting how backwoods he is. What would a reasonable warranty or guarantee be? I was hoping at least a couple of thousand miles, but he isn't a chain, just him and his son out of a garage.
-
Just called Dave B. on the idler pulley pricing.
The A/C pulley is $38.
The Power Steering pulley is $69.53. Don't think that one is the problem.
The A/C belt is $13.90.
For about 10k miles, whenever I turn on the A/C i get an unbelievably loud groaning. Golden Isles Nissan said it probaly was the compressor clutch. Well, Dave said it was probably the A/C idler pulley. I also know that I need to replace the belt from when I got the Optima and saw how worn the A/C belt was.
I think I'm also gonna order the A/C pulley and belt.
-
don't know if they (heep coild) would work on r50. never heard of anyone being able to do that on here.
Yeah, I didn't think so. Thanks though, Slick.
I called some shops today. There is a local shop, Autotech, which I have never seen but understand that it is a somewhat country father and son operation. Thats fine. They quoted me 5.5 hours of work for $55/hour. Thats around what, $300 for a clutch job? That doesn't seem bad, and it includes resurfacing the flywheel.
I also asked him if I can order ATE blue brake fluid and Hawk pads, he said they would do it.
About that metallic sound, he offered a good idea. He said that some of the VGs have the idler pulley go, he said from the description that was probably what was happening.
Any suggestions? Thanks for the help guys and gals!
-
as all the above mentions. For the sagging: for less than $150 and a couple hours, get the JGC coils and some Rancho 5000 shocks (coil p/n PA8360513 (FCS782V) and shock P/N PO6005995 (RS5116) the first p/n is Kragen/Schuckers number, the second in parentases is the original p/n....
Wait, wait, wait! You know I own an R50, right? I thought the ZJ coils worked only on the WD21 Pathys. I was planning on getting a set of OEM rear coils from the parts guy, Dave B. because in a year or so I can just go OME or AC. But if the ZJ coils work I would be interested.
-
Haha, you don''t have to tell me I have waaaay too much time on my hands! I have no classes on Tuesdays and Thursdays, lol.
I can't wait to customize the Pathy! This whole unique equipment and history on mine has convinced me to keep it forever. I just need money to build it up, and the little money I have now has been spent on repairs and more important stuff. I always take the functional but inexpensive route anyways. At least whenever I fix something it must either be OEM or better.
Thanks for all of the kind words; pretty much everyone else thinks I'm crazy to be so enamored with the whole magazine thing! Maybe I am...
-
On a somewhat related note...I've found a suspension company based out of the UAE that makes dual-reservoir multi-valve shocks for Pathfinders. It looks like they're for the newer generation R50s, however. Trainman, could you get me a couple of detailed pictures of how the shocks mount up, and where? And one of the whole rear end? I'd very much appreciate it.
Is this the same company that made those pimp-azz shocks on that $80,000 R50 on Ebay posted recently?
I would love to see how much these shocks would be, definitely more than a full OME setup for sure! Do you have the prices, Dan? Do they ship to the U.S.?
I assume the newer generation means 99.5+?
-
Another one:
-
Some pictures from a road test at Edmunds.com. Pretty sure my truck is the one in both of the pics. Certain it is the bottom one. It also has the wind deflector, not on many.
The first picture looks like its a white truck. Or it could be the lighting and be mine. But it sure does have the outside spare.
My truck:
To tell you the truth, I kinda like the 255/65 tires in the picture. I may just settle for 255/70 next time.
-
not sure if you can go to ATF for the clutch. i'd at least dump the old fluid since you're doing the clutch.. start all new!
Haha, my fault, not ATF as in tranny fluid, ATE is a brand of performance brake fluid. I think it's called ATE Super Blue, its a performance fluid with a higher boiling point and better feel, response, etc.
Here it is:
-
Yeah, both great ideas.
Being a college freshman out-of-state, I am new to the area. I could drive the 700 miles home Thanksgiving break and go to a shop there, but that is just asking for the clutch to crap out with luggage and people in the car on the highway at night in the rain in a different state... My karma isn't good enough to do that, lol!
I probably will ask Aamco, etc. and would be pleased if they would use my parts, but I really would have a hard time trusting them. I would love to find an import place and pay him a healthy amount of labor. I just want the OEM parts, and would love to order from Dave. I may ask body shops, etc. what a good repair shop is around here.
Also, since clutch fluid is brake fluid, would this be a good time to go the ATE fluid route? I would only do this if the job requires the fluid to be drained. Thanks!
P.S.- Check out what Dave told me about my truck!!!
-
Okay guys,
I called Dave Burnette My post in the Garage and he ran a search on my VIN to see my car's history. He uncovered some crazy stuff:
Built January 13, 1999 at the Nissan factory in Japan. One of the very first 1999.5 Pathfinders to be built.
Here is the strange part:
Delivered March 11, 1999 to the NISSAN HEADQUARTERS IN GARDENA, CA!!! My car was bought by Nissan.
P.D.I.'d March 16, 1999!!! Notice the car was bought before it was P.D.I.'d. It, therefore, was a press vehicle.
Here is the bizzare part:
The only warranty claim on the truck was a paint claim April 12, 1999 in SMYRNA, TN AT THE NISSAN FACTORY!!! The claim was a paint, refinish, prep thing by Nissan. THE TRUCK HAD 13 MILES ON IT AT THE TIME!!! So it was trucked over to the factory.
I remeber as a 13 year-old subscriber to Truck Trend magazine a comparison of the 1999.5 Nissan Pathfinder and a 1999 Honda Passport. The Pathfinder was exactly like mine, in every way. What I am thinking is that my truck was used by Truck Trend as a tester, possibly even at auto shows.
I just wrote Truck Trend an email tonight about this and offered to buy that back issue with the article. I hope my truck is a celebrity!!!
-
Clutch: Yep, yours is gone ! If the truck is mostly city driven, driven agressively, or poorly driven, 100k is about right for stock components. How long can you go ? until the truck won't move anymore but I don't recommend this. The flywhel should be turned for a 'text book' clutch replacement. If it is not badly glazed, scored or doesn't have surface cracks you can get away with out it. The longer you drive with a worn and slipping clutch, the more likely it will have some/all of the problems above. A machine shop wanted $50 to turn mine but I was able to buy a reconditioned one (read turned) with a new ring gear for $65 with a core replacement. No brainer. They WONT accept yours as a core if it has bad surface cracks. Make sure that everything is replaced (clutch disk, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, etc). you don't want to have to go there again for another 100k+. Get it done as soon as you can is my advice before it leaves you stuck, buggers things up or over rev's the motor.
My clutch was so light and smooth at first, I thought I did something wrong. Now it has settled back to to a reasonable creaky, groaning stiffness... At least I can tell what it is doing...
B
Yep, it did it again today!
Just to let the Pathfinder community know this, we are also a Maxima owner. On www.maxima.org, there is a member named Dave Burnette. Dave works at South Point Nissan in Austin, TX as a parts man. He is second to none in Nissan knowledge and is one of the nicest people you will deal with. He is a legend on the Maxima community, everyone orders from him and everyone has been more than satisfied. He has the LOWEST prices!
If you need any OE Nissan parts, call Dave Burnette at (888) 254-6060. Tell him a maxima.org member Denton sent you.
My local dealer, Royal Nissan in Bloomington, IN quoted me $421 for Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and TO Bearing. They quoted me $713 for labor!!!
Dave quoted me $277 for the OEM parts Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, and TO Bearing. These are the OEM Diken parts made in Japan.
He also quoted me $153 for a kit made in the U.S. that includes all of these parts in one box.
Dave said that if it were his money he would go OE but he has heard any complaints about the kit.
I think I will go OE, any recommendations?
Also, I need to find a shop to do the work. I know it is not nice to bring your own parts and do the labor, but it will be way too expensive otherwise. Are there any recommendations on the type of shop to do the work? Transmission, dealer, clutch shop, Indy mechanic? Big job with the transfer case, right?
-
Was that the OEM Land Rover A-bar sold at dealers as an accessory? If it is, that guard was a hell of a steal! Even if not it looks great and is hella cheap!
Love the lights too! Looks great!
-
Ahh, awesome stuff people, thanks so much for the detailed replies, especially Vengeful!
PIAA bulbs suck, I guess I will get some fogs that are whitish-bluish now because I really use them as driving lights, not fogs. I'm not gonna go the cheapo amber route becuase I would rather have a set of Hella 500s or something on the front bumper. I really loved the light color though...
I think that since the weather is getting colder here at IU that may be the source of the static. I've lived in Atlanta my whole life, so I'm not used to the climate here.
At 95k miles I replaced the timing belt, tensioner and water pump.
But today when I started the car, there was a high-pitched metallic squeal, possibly a slipping belt but I'm not sure.
My clutch, since I got the car, has felt weird. Kinda stiff, no response. I drove a 2002 Pathfinder SE 5-speed recently with 53k miles and the clutch was perfect. It was light and simple to drive. But it had the 3.5, but I digress... sssh
Well today, when I was driving on campus at 35 MPH in fourth going up a little hill (maybe lugging the engine a bit) the clutch slipped for the first time. It went from 2k RPM all the way up to 4500RPM before I could figure it out! Dammit! Any ideas on how long I have on the clutch?
I can't find a better upgrade. I see the stock clutch is an Exedy, and I would go that route if I can get 100k at least out of it and it would feel just like that 2002 clutch I drove. Is resurfacing the flywheel recommended at the same time? I have seen conflicting opinions.
One more question. The rear end sags about 1.5 inches lower than the front. The whole thing is worn out. With all of these bills and being in college, I was wondering if new shocks and struts would help this problem. I have read that the Nissan springs are weak, but the OME and AC lifts are way pricey. Any budget options, with or without lift. I just want a level look, taller is just fine.
-
Ahhh, thank you for the reply.
As for the noise, I got the timing belt and tensioner replaced at 95k miles. The alternator belt was replaced at roughly the same time. They have not been looked at since. The noise is slightly metallic, not really the sound of a rubber belt slipping and squealing. The more I think about it the more I am inclined to say it is pulley related, possibly bearings. This happens, right?
I forgot to add about the fogs that the bulbs are 55w. Not sure what factory is.
Were grounds the problem, could a custom ground kit solve this? I have heard that Nissans have poor grounds... Are there ground kits available?
-
I have steel lines coming for my truck, I have seriously thought about the cross drilled rotors, my rotors only have about 9K on them they should be near new...I just want less heat fade and less spnge feeling. I did the line on my CRX and it was a formidable improvement. here is a link to ebay for the lines...this is a good price.Steel Lines
Why are those lines not for the 1999-2004 R50s? Was there a change? I would love a set of stainless steel lines because with the way I drive I need less fading!
-
-bounce- Being in college has not been easy on the Pathy.
This past week, whenever I get out of the car and reach for the door to shut it I have been getting shocked by static electricity. I know I have cloth seats but it never has done this. Why could it be doing this?
Which leads me to the next thing. The PIAA Ion Crystal bulbs which I installed properly in the fog housings both quit this weekend. They have been used since June of 2005. The drivers bulb quit Friday and the passenger bulb quit Saturday. Could this be related to the static electricity?
I have the outside spare tire carrier. Recently the pictogram on the dash of the carrier ajar has been sporadically illuminating while driving. I know that the carrier has been shut all the way. The light will illuminate for a split second every second for say three minutes, then it will retire for the day. It really is weird. Where is the sensor? What could be the problem?
There is also either a belt or a pulley noise. When the engine is running at any speed there is a constant metallic sound coming from the front of the engine. Not sure is a worn belt would make this noise. The T-belt and alternator belt were replaced 5k miles ago. What the culprit?
The hatch glass lock also got stuck, causing the glass to fly open at 50 MPH. That was fun! The lock seems really hard to turn.
Some idiot hit the rear bumper in the parking lot (luckily in the spot that needed to be repainted) and didn't leave a note, only a much larger area of damage.
Some drunk idiot stumbled into the side of my car and shattered the passenger front ventvisor thingy. He told me to send him the bill, at least...
Some drunk girl accidentally rubbed her bubble gum into the back seat cloth cushion. I may be a detailer but this is gonna be a tough one.
A really good girlfriend of mine was riding shotgun and was playing with the rearview mirror and somehow ripped it out of the roof. Looks like an easy job but still gonna let the dealer handle that one. We have a really friendly dealer here in Bloomington. Don't know how to ask her to pay that one, lol...
I also just hit 100k miles! Yay!
Thats about it... Any help would be appreciated!
-
I wonder if you can convert it to the 1999.5 front end...just a thought. And definitely get an ARB! (Crosses fingers for Shrockworks to build bumpers
)Sorry to hear about the wreck!
tranny shift programming different in SE and LE ?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
No, his is a 1999.5 Pathfinder, being that it has the new front end, etc. along with the marginally more powerful engine (and 200 more lbs.). It was never mentioned but I would not be surprised if there were some changes to software in the model year change. But then again, I have a 5-speed so I make those decisions
Mine was built 1/13/99, and mine was one of the first ones off the assembly line for the 1999.5 year. Chech the door jamb on his for the production date.
P.S.- When ordering parts, I always tell them mine is a 2000 instead of a 1999, as there were no mechanical changes from 1999.5 to 2000 as opposed to 1999 to 1999.5. Just a tip...