OR99.5Speed
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Posts posted by OR99.5Speed
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Thanks for the responses. I just visited the dealer and another shop around here and both quoted $840 for labor. :oops: I was looking at the Centerforce since it's made for off-road vehicles and is built to put up with larger tires and the stress these things put up with. I'm planning on 33's in the future, and I'm not sure how long the OEM clutches last when under lots of abuse.
Both the dealer and shop told me to be careful when using the Centerforce since if it is installed and falls apart $100 down the road, I get to pay another $900 to install the new one. The OEM carries a 1 year/12000 warranty.
Once I figure in machining the flywheel, it looks like it'll be about $1300-1400 depending on whether I use OEM or CF parts.
I've heard the CF I and II are crap, but anyone have any experience with any CF clutches?
Thanks!
OR: Are you sure it was only 5 hours of work? The dealer said it's an 11 hour job.
Hmm...it might have been eight...I have the memory of an 80 year-old woman...it's the college drinking life.
You know what? It was a shop out in the boonies. $55/hour for labor, and the labor total was around $500 I think...I might have the reciept in the truck so I could find out tommorow (it's ridiculously far away right now
) Let me check on it.
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Hmm...it might be platinum...I think I'm getting the Maxima/Pathfinder confused. Or was it the 4Runner?
But the Iridium plugs are fine...
I promise that. Not sure what the price difference is between the platinums. -
As of now, I'm thinking I'll go OE replacement. The original is still holding up after 200K miles... Seems like it would be hard to beat that kind of reliability.
200k miles? That's just insane!!!
Dave Burnette at the Nissan dealer in Austin where I order my parts said that around 100k clutch replacement is normal for our trucks.
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You must have gotten a bargain at AutoZone, because when I checked last week, they were quoting $11 for each plug! Since there's only 6 plugs, that's still not bad.
I'm correct in assuming that the OEM plugs are NOT platinum, right?
Hmmm...glad to hear that I got a deal.
A lot of those type of places don't carry them, so I was forced to buy them from whoever carried NGK Iridium. They are not platinum; I think they are better, but that really doesn't matter, because the iridiums is what came in my VG and should go in yours.
You can see what the prices are on www.sparkplugs.com
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Stick with NGK Iridium. Don't use anything else! If it came in your truck chances are an engineer knows better than you about the engine.
My original NGK Iridiums lasted 100k when I changed them and looked great when they came out. I put new ones in and it runs like a champ.
However, 6 of them were like $45 at Autozone but it was money well-spent.
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I'm still trying to get the video of me almost sliding my friend's 05 down a cliff...I just emailed him!
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When I start mine up in the morning after a cold night it will want to stay at about 1600 RPM until the temp gauge gets to the bottom hash mark, i.e. about two minutes of driving. I really have no clue of what you problem is though...
What could the shop have touched that would make it idle high when cold if they were just changing the T-case?
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Is the JWT Pop-Charger CARB legal? Don't you fail emissions if your mods aren't CARB legal?
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I used all OEM parts. Clutch disc, TO bearing, pressure plate. Also resurfaced flywheel.
I bought the stuff from Dave at North Texas Nissan, I think I only paid about $276 or something for the parts. The "clutch kit", which was no-name, was $100 cheaper, but for all of the labor I wanted to do it right the first time.
I hired a mechanic to do it all, 5 hours of labor. It's tough because it's a two-man job when the T-case comes out. Also was peeved at the mechanic, because when they removed the heat shields they left one loose, rattling like hell. My exhaust at idle now sounds a little throatier, but I kinda like it...I guess they left off a shield.
Works great but the pedal still doesn't feel like others with fewer miles, kinda stiff with long travel. My truck is very, very difficult to drive smoothly. Is yours difficult to drive smoothly? My gearbox also has a bit of play.
:sniff:
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I believe you can test the voltage on the O2's to see whether you're running rich or lean. I know it says the values in the manual so I can check if you need it.
Yup, that's what the shop did on mine. That's all an O2 sensor does, it's not very complicated.
I don't know how to test it, but I would assume hooking it up to a voltmeter.
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I also ask them to tighten the lugs by hand, it's amazing how they don't!
A big cause of warped brake rotors is overtorquing lugs, not just heat.
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Looks good Fueler!
My tint on the front is 15%, which perfectly matches the factory rear tint. I hate having more tint on the windshield, so I just have the factory blue tint strip.
Cops don't bother you unless you drive like a jackass and they want to write you up for whatever they can.
Just don't tint the moonroof, whatever you do!
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I can't for the life of me remember who it was! It was an R50 owner...
Anyways, he changed his friend's timing belt, which went smoothly, and then changed his and ran into a few hitches...I'm gonna try and find the thread, it's really pissing me off!
Damn 3.5 owners have a chain! -thnkboutit-
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it's not a Maxima you know )
We just sold my brother's modded 2001 AE 5-speed Maxima. :sniff:
When I drove it I got worse mileage than the Pathfinder...also I always thought I was going to get a ticket, even with the V1. I'm not sure I can have a fast car...
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I put the 110 MPH part up there knowing I would be chastized for it...Higher speeds give you an excellent indication of what needs attention. By the way, these are on deserted highways, not passing traffic. PSI is set at 36 and I have good condition S-rated tires with no bubbling and perfect alignment.
I was getting an alignment a couple of weeks ago at Sears. The attendant asked me, "Do you feel any vibrations or pulling?". To that I responded with a smile, "Yeah, there's a vibration from the rear of the car about 96 MPH on up." He checked "No" and wen't to the car.
I constantly went 138 in my chipped VW GTI 1.8T, I needed aerodynamics. You could feel the float at over 130, and could also feel the suspension working at 100% soaking up irregularities that would have gone unnoticed.
I drive the Pathfinder pretty hard at times, but not all of the time. I'm not the guy weaving in and out of traffic on the highway and I don't drive like a jackass. I'm the one with the cruise set at 85 with the Valentine 1 on. :bow:
The piston rings aren't toast. I just thought they were when it was actually my MAF that was broken. I don't think anything is really. It seems just as slow as before, but there are no weird noises or knocks from the top or bottom end. Being a manual, I drive it admittedly more spirited than an automatic, but that is just around town.
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UPDATE:
I've put about 5,000 miles on the Pathfinder since then, a lot of it highway driving around 3700 RPM. I've taken it up to 110 MPH with no problems.
It's cold here in Indiana, and I have noticed that the truck leaves a cloud of blue smoke if I get on the throttle when the motor is dead cold, i.e. sitting overnight. I haven't noticed blue smoke or oil consumption at all when the engine is warm.
Also, the Pathfinder has not noticably been consuming oil. I don't add oil between changes. The dipstick is ridiculously hard to read but it shows full even after I repeatedly check it. (I learned my lesson before)
One thing is that the Pathfinder still runs a little rich. After a 600-mile road trip there will be a little bit of black soot over the rear bumper above the tailpipe. I can also see black smoke the rearview say, racing from stoplight to stoplight, seemingly over 4000 RPM.
Maybe the O2 sensors have been fouled? Gas mileage isn't too different than before, maybe 10 less miles on a tank but certainly within the window of error. No codes or anything.
Any clues?
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UPDATE:
Just occured to me that I have be a bad member and haven't updated my thread. I had the Pathfinder towed to a mechanic when this happened. I told him all that I did and they were very confused. The mechanic called me a few hours after I dropped it off saying the STARTER was bad! My best guess is the starter crapped out coincidentally. Really bizarre stuff and no, my Dad does not believe the mechanic. I do though, plus My car is on/off about 5 times a day.
After the starter is put in it I find out the truck burns oil, leading me to this thread of mine:
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Post-Whore
Just kidding buddy...Anyways, I'll do a search to come across this story of you trashing your TB
I HATE post whores!!!
I beat you to the search-
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7036&st=0
which lead to:
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Go for it. I chickened out, but I there have been Pathfinder owners going more than 200k miles on the original.
I forget who it is on this board, but his friend has a 99.5 LE that he hardly maintains with 230k highway miles or something crazy.
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I'm sure they are...my 99.5 has the same steprails as the rest of the years.
So yes, they will, now I'm sure of it. But to make even more sure, check with a manufacturer.
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I haven't changed mine out, but understand that with the extra money you spend on "nicer" plug wires would probably be better spent on beer.
With this kinda stuff, ask yourself "was the factory stuff doing a bad job?"
The answer is no. I have had terrible experiences with Bosch on American/Japanese cars, and favorable experiences on German cars.
Stick to NGK and Denso for the Jap mobiles. NGK Iridium plugs and NGK wires. Save your money.
Also, I swear to God, if you do any gay ricer stuff like colored wires you will be made fun of horribly!
Just an FYI! -
I envy you and your 5-speed
Thank you! I envy you and your 3.5!
What is really fun is the 3.5 with the 5-speed. There's a few 2001s like that and even fewer 2002s. I drove a 2002 SE 5-speed 4x4 with 60k miles. I wasn't ready to buy at the time and this one wasn't as nice as mine.
Let me tell you, it hauled big time. The transmission seemed to have a better linkage than mine and the clutch was more precise and had a shorter throw.
Next up for me may be a newer QX4...
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Haha, yeah, but when the MAF failed 5k miles ago at about 102k miles the mechanic tested the O2 sensor and said it was okay. Next time I'm home in the summer I'm sure I'll have to replace the cat (with a Magnaflow or Carsound) and at least one O2 sensor. I haven't searched yet so I don't remember how many there are, but I think there are 4...
You have no idea, I can hardly change my license plate lights. The whole reason my MAF got fouled up was because of what I did, but that's a long story that was beaten to death in The Garage. Basically, it really screwed up my engine, but it's one tough mother and keeps going. Just waiting for it to crap out, and I don't think it's going to.
EDIT: Forgot to add that gas mileage has dropped only a tiny bit (maybe 10 fewer miles on a tank) and no codes have been thrown. If the mileage gets worse or a code is thrown it's replacement time. I have a trusted mechanic in Atlanta, but not in Bloomington.
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Are you planning on changing the O2 Sensor?
Haha, yeah, but when the MAF failed 5k miles ago at about 102k miles the mechanic tested the O2 sensor and said it was okay. Next time I'm home in the summer I'm sure I'll have to replace the cat (with a Magnaflow or Carsound) and at least one O2 sensor. I haven't searched yet so I don't remember how many there are, but I think there are 4...
You have no idea, I can hardly change my license plate lights. The whole reason my MAF got fouled up was because of what I did, but that's a long story that was beaten to death in The Garage. Basically, it really screwed up my engine, but it's one tough mother and keeps going. Just waiting for it to crap out, and I don't think it's going to.
Do Iridium plugs = 100,000 mile change intervals?
in General Forums
Posted
Don't do Bosch anything unless it's a German car! I can't possibly answer another one of these questions, but search it, me and a TON of others have had terrible experiences. Spend the "extra" $30, if that.