tmorgan4

David... If you still need a brake line I have the one off mine. I offered it to a guy on ronin but never heard from him. $20 is all I want. I can help with a panhard too if you need. Tyler

Awesome! Did you get them installed yet?

Sorry to everyone who's waiting on quotes. Neither of the shops I emailed about parts this week got back to me. Time to find some new ones.

The real advantage to having longer links (don't forget about your driveshaft too) is for tire clearance in the rear. You can cut fenders, but you can't really cut much when the door is in the way. The way I've been building my adjustable links is when they're fully compressed (flex joint threaded all the way in) it's the stock link length. Then you can unthread the flex joint about 2.0" safely, which is more than you should ever need to move the axle back. Keeps from having to buy parts twice like you mentioned. I hate doing that.

Haven't gotten much of anything done lately. I'm trying to buy dry sump parts but ATI has had my crank damper for 3 weeks and hasn't even looked at it yet. I'm trying to get them to make a custom one but they aren't very cooperative. I've found that this depends on who you ask. Howe recommends having the tie rod in line with the ram at full extension, but PSC says otherwise. PSC recommends that you split the difference so that's how I've got mine mounted. Howe: http://www.howeperformance.com/pdfs/dbl-end%20ram%20mtg.pdf PSC http://www.pscmotorsports.com/tech/double_end.pdf

It's most common to put the bushings at the body side and the flex joints at the axle. The bushings help isolate road noise and cut down on vibration.

Timmons, Check out the build plate in the inside of your driver's side door jam or engine bay and it will list the gears. Under 'axle code' it will either say HG43 (4.363 gears) or HG46 (4.636) gears. Although I think 4.3s are more common in manuals and 4.6s are mostly found under autos, there are some exceptions. I ended up with a manual transmission and 4.6 gears. Post up what you have and I might have a solution for you.

No issues on a daily driver. These should lead to a noticeable improvement in the overall handling and help eliminate some of the adverse side effects (death sway) of worn out stock bushings.

Thanks for the PMs and emails! I'm just waiting on one shop to get back to me and I can get prices on everything. Hopefully have them prices by the end of the week.

Glad to see another one!

FINALLY!!! Here are all 4 links finished plus a longer, adjustable panhard bar to re-center your axle under the vehicle after you do a subframe drop.

Actually....the way he did it using OEM rear brake parts is the better idea!

How much do you want to spend....I have some free time and have all the front disc brake parts.

Thanks guys.

You need a T30 tamper proof torx bit to remove the air bag. There are two small plastic panels that pop off on either side with bolts hidden underneath. I wouldn't be surprised if you messed up the spiral cable. And they are NOT cheap.

Did you spin your steering wheel a bunch when you had the steering disconnected?

Tires were a 35x12.5r15. Measured more like 13" wide and just under 35" tall when mounted and full of air. The wheels were standard black 15x8" steelies with 3.75" backspacing. No way to run more backspacing as I had hardly ANY clearance between the strut and tire.

Never had to modify front or rear driveshafts! I think with a 6" lift you're getting close to needing a new one (or having it lengthened) but not quite yet. Never had an issue.

Thanks again for all the compliments. Helps to find the motivation to finish it! I finally got a bunch of laser cut parts in today I've been waiting on for a month and a half. I got the radiator mounted and it worked out great. I'm actually beginning to think that this might actually be drivable again someday. A bunch of hoses I ordered from Samco should show up soon that had to be made and shipped from the UK. My other set of ORIs should be here at the end of March that I ordered in December. I have a fuel pump on the way. I think it's cool to see parts go from CAD to being built when they fit like they're supposed to. Spent a lot of time thinking how to mount the radiator so it's easily removable but it's not going anywhere when it's mounted. There will be another support tying the upper and lower mounts together between the fans and there will be rubber between the radiator and mount. The reason for all the heims on the front end is the "radiator support" is completely removable and the only way of getting the engine out. Once it's unbolted the entire engine, transmission, and Atlas can be pulled out as a single unit.

I guess I'm a little late here!!!! Sorry...got your message after I got home from work and it was pretty late. When I did 35s on my subframe drop I didn't have the extended links. They were all stock and WORN OUT. I beat up the fender pretty badly under the door from the tire rubbing it but nothing too horrible. I'm still working on trying to get a few prices put together on the rear links but they aren't a complete necessity for 35s. Be prepared to do a lot of cutting and you can't be to worried about hearing the tires rub. I'll try and keep an eye on this if you have any other questions!!!

Unfortunately the 4.9 Xterra gears and the other 5.XX ratios won't work for the R50 front diffs. It will work in the rear, but not the front. Highest that is available for the front is the factory (in some cases) 4.636 gears.

Wow! That sucks that you had issues right after dealing with these guys. I have absolutely no affiliation with the company (I just found them online when I was looking for custom springs) but I had absolutely no issue like that. I hope it's just a fluke or odd timing because they make some really nice stuff. I loved the springs I got from them.

With a LE model you probably have 4.3 gears. I have a front and rear set of 4.6 gears I'll sell you already installed for cheap. Both AC and Calmini make transfer case gears to go from a 2:1 to a 3.7-3.9:1

Good to hear! Sorry I'm late on responding but it sounds like you got it figured out. I've had that happen quite a few times where it runs rough for a couple hours and then eventually dries out. Much easier fix than a new engine!

Well........it's super hard to get good pictures in the garage but here are a few. Pretty much sleeper status. Homemade rear truss with some not so awesome welds Start of the rear shock mounts. These will tie into the entire rear part of the cage with about 12 more tubes. Critique all you want but it's far from finished!!!