XPLORx4

Actually, the diffs require GL-5, not GL-4. I'll be draining and refilling with some Amsoil GL-5 80-90W soon.

I think the Haynes manual contains what you're looking for, although it doesn't fold out. It's on several pages. No online version, so you'll probably have to buy one. Can't help you with the parts list. Sorry. What are you trying to do?

Well, geez, next time just don't have an open flame around when you change your fuel filter, and you want have to worry about all that annoying fire and smoke. I hope your dog is OK! -bounce- It musta sucked having to give him a bath.

You know what would be really cool is if you designed the strut spacers so they could adjust camber AND caster. My truck has pulled to the right for nearly the entire time I've owned it because of the right side being out of caster from the left side. Check out this as an idea: http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index.php?p...ex_v2&id=77&c=4 Now THAT would be marketable, not just for us crazy R50 4x4 enthusiasts!

Which angles need to be refigured? Can't you just cut the metal stock down to 3" instead of 4"?

Nice. Needs bigger tires now. Are you making all of the lifts the same height, or will you also offer a somewhat shorter one?

Even if you depressurize the fuel line, it will still leak about a 1/2-cup all over the place.

There were only 3 types of wheels for your model year: XE: steel 15x6.5 wheels SE: alloy 15x7 wheels, the ones you have LE: alloy 15x6.5 "luxury spoke" wheels If you are inquiring for wheels at junkyards, just specify alloy 6-spoke SE wheels.

2001 Pathys (which he has) have VQ35 engines equipped with timing chains- no change interval. And even if he did have a timing belt, the change interval is 105,000 miles.

The attachment shows the fluids recommended in my 1997 owners manual. I'm using Redline gear oil in the diffs, Redline D4 ATF in the tranny, and Amsoil ATF in the t-case.

Start with cap, rotor, plugs, and wires, if they're not relatively new. Then replace the distributor.

FYI, the t-case may take ATF, not gear oil. Check your owner's manual to be sure. My 97 LE (4x4, automatic tranny) specs 2-3/8 qts of ATF in the t-case. I believe this is because if the oil seal on either the t-case or the tranny fails, you want to have both fluids be the same. Gear oil in an auto tranny is bad. And FYI, on the rear diff, the drain plug is on the bottom right. The plug you saw on the back of the diff is the fill plug. My drain plug has encountered rock scrapage too many times, and the square 1/2" drive hole is shaped like a football now. It's gonna be a real PITA to change that fluid!

The wire screen on the MAF assembly is designed to smooth airflow through the MAF assembly, so it gets a more accurate reading of the mass air flow. You should probably keep it there. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAFless_Tuning http://p-car.com/diy/conefilter/

If you have an LSD, then use LSD gear oil in the rear, and regular (non-LSD) oil in the front. Both the front diff and the rear diff have their own drain and fill plugs. They're pretty easy to see once you're under the truck. Both require a 1/2" drive ratchet. When you're ready to change the fluid, ALWAYS remove the fill plug first. This ensures that you'll be able to refill the diff. It would really suck to drain the fluid, then find out you can't get the fill plug out!

Could be the 87 octane... :confused: Doesn't the VQ35 prefer premium?

Like vengeful said, the vacuum line routing, sensors, etc. varied a lot in the early models. A 96 is way different than a 97. For example, 96's EVAP canister is IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. 97 vacuum line routing is different than 98, and so forth. This was the early days in OBDII compliance. So, yeah, my service manual is for a 97, so it won't necessarily look like your 98.

So all of your problems post-cam-install have been from disconnected vacuum lines, not from the cams themselves?

If you don't want to buy a multimeter, a cheap circuit tester like the one pictured above can probably be bought at an auto parts store for about 5 bucks.

For negative, you can just ground it on a screw or bolt. For positive, the best thing to do would be to use a voltmeter or continuity tester to check for power when the key is on. It's been too many years since I've done this mod to remember the color of the wires I used.

Tire sizes (if available) that might possibly fit include: 245/70R17 255/70R17 265/60R17 265/65R17 Have a tire shop test fit the tires before finalizing the purchase.

Could be related to overheating. Can't say for sure without findout what the code is.

path1998- First address the bearing problem. Don't worry about the other noise yet. Chances are that they're related somehow. Again, if this happened AFTER you got the truck back from the shop who did your brakes, take it back and have them take a look at it.

The knock sensor DTC doesn't illuminate the MIL, so it's not an issue for the CA smog test.

P1440 is an EVAP error code. Something's amiss with your EVAP system. It could be as simple as a loose gas cap or a loose vacuum hose in the EVAP system. As previously stated, you can ignore the P0325. I've had that code for 3 years now, and haven't had any problems. The other noises you're hearing are likely due to failed bearings. Since they're making noise, it's probably too late to just repack them. You'll probably need to replace them. A brake job does not automatically include bearing repacking. Did the noises occur after the brake job was done? You may be able to take the truck back to the shop who replaced your rotors and find out if they forgot to put something back together correctly. Just out of curiousity, why didn't you do the brakes yourself? It sounds like you were prepared to change the knock sensor yourself (which looks to be a royal pain in the butt). The brakes (and bearings) are way easier, albeit a little messy.

The bulbs are accessed from behind the speedometer/fuel gauge. (The dashboard gauges are also called the "instrument cluster".) To remove the gauges, you have to partially disassemble the plastic cover on the steering column, and remove the plastic trim around the gauges. After that, you can access the screws holding the instrument panel to the dashboard and pull it out. It's probably easier said than done, though. I personally have never removed the instrument cluster.