maikan

From what I saw in the FSM i have 2 cam sensor. My mechanic changed only one. He saw one on the engine, check the catalog, saw only one listed, and concluded i have only one. I will change the second one and hope. Seems very hard to find out what the problem is. The sensor, the solenoid, sludge in the engine,clogged cats. The stories on the code P0011 and p0021 are for the most part very sad.

I've been told that putting synthetic oil in the truck was a mistake. It could have glazed the engine and therefore burning more oil. The truck is not leaking, no oil showing anywhere. A problem with the timing gear is what the mechanic told me. So opening up the engine and go check it is their solution. Damn I have 176 000 km !

Hey guys, I own a 2004 chinook pathfinder with 176000 km. Last month i experienced a sudden lost of power. I couldn't get over 60 kmh and couldn't drive uphill. SEL light up. So I check my oil level and found it dry! No oil was shown on the dipstick. I put oil in, go do a oil change and pull out the code. They were P0011 and P0021. The mechanic make me change the cam or timing sensor and told me that the problem can be solve by chanfing the faulty sensor or a complete timing job. The sensor is changed and the loss of power is still happening alomost everytime i take my truck, after maybe 30 minutes of driving. Often i shut off the engine wait for a minute and it came back allright. So do you guys have any idea what i shoulf do before taking the plunge and open up the engine. Because I don't think i will bite the bullet and do the job. Thank you

So I 'll need spacers to make the tires fit ? Even if they are skinnier than the stock one ?

I am getting 235/85R16 (31.7 inches) to fit my stock rims, and I wonder what is the smallest lift I can get to fit these tire ? I would like to go for the smaller lift to reduce stress on the truck. Thanks

The noise is completely gone this morning. We have a heat wave today and no noise.maybe the mechanic was wrong about the balljoint.

Just bought the truck few month ago so I don't really know.

Maybe squeal is not the right choice of word... Here, listen for yourself http://s871.photobucket.com/user/maikan/media/20140130_1333521_zps6592735e.mp4.html

that strange all you breaking because of the cold. I am in Quebec and we had -25 celsius for more than a week, even -54 with windchill on one day and no cars broke. Maybe a call to boost the battery but that's it. At -30 You start your car and 10-15 minutes later you can drive no problem.

I have a very loud squealing coming from my front left balljoint. The mechanic said that i shouldn't drive with it until it is replaced. Is it true that it is more dangerous, because it can seize and snap off, than a loose balljoint. And before I search the forum for info about balljoint, can I do that in my driveway, or do I need to to pay a mechanic 300$ to take care of it.

BTW is ther a difference between US an Canadian model ? My arb rep said only us model can fit arb stock

damn, if a forum about Pathy love 4runners so much maybe I didn't do the right choice ? (for the second time) No really you can't find better deal than a pathfinder, reliability, affordability, offroad capability, ride comfort, etc... It is my second R50, 1999 and 2004 and I loved them. Have 31in on the truck and about 10km to the cabin, mud and hills summer and 24 inches of snow in winter and it is a great machine. 1 inches of extra grounf clearence won't change much IMHO.

This afternoon I called NAPA and asked them about my drivebelts. They told me that the narrow one was about 15$ And they told me the wider one was 70$ I check on rockauto and they sold both the wider one at max 18$! Are we talking about a rip off !!

I have the knob selector for the use of the 4wd, and I recently install Mile Marker hubs. From what I read here there is no problem if I don't switch from 2wd with hubs unlock. After reading the feedback in the link, I don't thnk that would be a great idea to install mechanical dissengaging front lockers. I shoud save up and take the bite for ARB front and rear maybe. That way I keep road drivability and extreme traction when necessary in the snow.

When you install lokka lockers on your front diff, does that make your pathy less road friendly? I want to keep the use of the auto 4wd system for when I'm on the road in winter, but I dont know how the truck will behave. Anyone with experience with the lokka lockers who can shed a light on that for me please?

PB and a good 5-ton puller solve my problem.

It's just for moving, but I need to start the engine and drive it for approx 1000 meters. It will be like having manual hubs unlocked ? Thanks

Is it safe to move the car for a short distance without the hubs bolted in? I must move the truck but my mile marker hubs won't be here until next week and my stock one don't fit anymore

I file it get rid of the mushroom at the end, then I got a gear extractor I push it out. Should brought that tool in the first place, best 40 $ of my week, and took about 15 minutes. But my hub is done, so looks like i will put manual hub sooner than expected. Anybody knows if we can find mile marker hub in canada? Abd what about rugged ridge, anybody use them?

So I learned the hard way to never beat the crap out the end of the axle. Now its al mushromed up and will never pas in the hub. I will grind it out tomorrow to make it smaller then the hub. Hpefully I will be able to save the axle but I think the c-clip wont fit in the groove correctly to secure it all. Damn never ever hit hard on the axle to free the hub, stupid mistake on my part Will invest on a bearing puller, sound advice thanks

I tackle my front rotors today and after a problem free driver's wheel I came across a rust problem. After removing the little clip at the end of the axle (i had to hammer it to get it free from the axle, it was seized in.) and undoing the studs, i couldn't remove the hub. I tried hammering it to get it to back up in the hub but it didn't bulge. For now I let it sleep all night in WD40 Anyone got a neat trick to remove my hub from the axle. Oh and if I want to change the studs by regular bolts, what would be the size of them bolts

I got godd year territory for 2 winter and 1 summer and they are quite capable for the price. A friend of mine had the firestone destination MT and they are definatly my next tires. Very good grip and very durable, less noisy than my goodyear too.

Just search a liitle bit because I have to do it too and found quite easily this How To- Change Drive Belts On A Vg33 Alternator, A/C, Power Steering A lot of things have been discussed here over the years, and there is a very good way to find what you are looking for Perhaps it is somethings that may be useful to sticky.

Where can you find this industrial grate fiberglass thing ? For me it is either this fiberglass thing or I can weld a steel ladder with steel mesh on top. Just got to find out what size of metal tubing to use that can support the weight of the vehicule

I am looking forward to add bridging ladder to my recovery equipment. I want 36 to 48 inches of board that will be held onto my roof rack. It will mainly be use in snow but also sometimes as bridging in summer off road situations. I wonder if I should weld ladder from steel wich will be heavy but also strong yet not flexible, or maybe fiberglass waffle board. Any of you have experience with one of these tracks? I think a pair of ladder can be one of the best thing for me since I do only mild wheeling and a lot of snow road. Can act like huge traction aid. What you think?