Nissan3

The wheel has a 4.5" backspace. I am hoping it will be enough my bro has the same backspace on his pathy he has 31x10.5 tires and he has over an inch to spare around his strut so i am hoping it will be good.

Anyone think this will work? I hope so i already ordered the combo hahahha. 275/70/16 tires mounted on a 16x9 rim. The tires are 31.2x10.8. I think i will have be ok height wise with the strut but width wise i am a little nervous. thanks

I was ordering from a local MT dealer near my hometown. MT kept screwing me around constantly changing the release date of the rims, when they officially released them they only had 2 sizes available for jeeps of course hahaha, so I said screw it after like 4 months of waiting using my crappy oem wheels. FUELER is your QX4 lifted at all? I use to have the dc-1s with 4" backspace and I had no problems with tire/strut clearence while runnin 31s but im hoping to bump up to 32's soon so im hopin they will clear, with the new 4.5"BS procomp wheels

I've been using Akebono pads for about 12000K now with mountain rotors, the combo is holding up well for me. I have noticed an improvment in braking over the oem that was installed before. I checked the wear about a month ago and the pads still look almost brand new. They do squeak pretty loud though when it is really cold it had just rained the night before.

SO after waiting months and months for my MT sidebiters to arrive I have been informed the earliest ship date is now september, so I have decided to hell with the sidebiters. I have done lots of searching and the only wheel that has caught my eye (besides my old dc-1s) is this procomp 7089 wheel. Anyone think this will work with the R50? thanks 7089

cool man, thats good to know, plus the q state is much cheaper then the nissan ATF. How much they charge you to flush the tranny? do you remember how much fluid they used? thanks

Hey everyone. My 2 years is up and need to do a tranny drain and fill. For some reason my local nissan dealership doesnt want to sell me ATF so I am looking to go none nissan fluid. I know the manual says to use dexron iii fluid the only one i can find with that on the front label is ATF from shell. I am also looking at quaker stare multi vehicle which says it can be used for dexron ii and iii applications. Has anyone tried any of these fluids? One dealership told me to use Pennzoil but found out that quaker state actually owns pennzoil so lookin in the q state direction. Thanks

Thanks for the response, so when you removed the shifter you took off the two screws and just pulled the shifter off? so when i put the shifter back on i am basically pluging it back in... right? sorry if im being confusing thanks again

hey everyone, I am trying to remove the shifter knob from my automatic assembly, anyone know how to? I removed the bezel and looked inside and it looks like there are 2 wires going up through the shifter for the O/D switch, i removed the 2 screws at the back of the shifter, now if i keep pulling will i rip the wires for the switch?? or do they just like unplug? thanks

Hard to say I've heard +20 but you can use this chart to verify, given you know the rim width and the backspacing.

Year: 2003 Chilkoot edition Lift: none Wheels: Stock 16x7 and 16x8 Dick cepek dc-1, 4"BS and -12mm offset Tires: 265/70/r16 Bridestone Dueler revo Notes: No rubbing when the duelers were on the stock wheels. When duelers were on dc-1s, more clearence in strut, had to trim front fascia and melt plastic with heat gun to stop rubbing pic1

Here are a few pics of the bushwackers http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa306/0...ot/Image043.jpg http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa306/0...ot/Image045.jpg

The street style bushwacker flares are more for appearence if anything. I put a set on my 03 pathfinder and they do look pretty slick but my old wheels still stuck out like an inch from the truck, I do recommend them though they do look good, but you will have to do some trimming to the 2 front flares as you will find the holes they give you do not line up with the factory screw holes, as the flares are for the 96-99 pathys.

Ya I have a good feeling about these wheels though, as for my dick cepeks i got in touch with the manufacture and they told me they had a small run of rims with a faulty clear coat, and I have a feeling the dealer gave me their old stock both times, but i really dont wanna risk it again. And really the wheels only corroded around where the bolts go in around the wheel, the black parts where fine on both sets of wheels. SO i think im gonna give the sidebiters a shot and if they corrode again i'll just have to keep my mouth shut and live with it...or move Black DC-1 pic

Ya thats what Iam afraid of, but the company really shouldn't put "clear coated to survive the harshest climates" in the brochure. IMO

I love those wheels but they just can't handle the harsh canadian winters. I am on my second set of those wheels and as soon as they saw salt they starting corroding again...BS... so i am trying to get a credit for them and thats why im looking at these as i want a year round wheel.

hey everyone, I am considering getting a set of these new MT sidebiter wheels for my 03 R50 to replace my black dick cepek DC-1 wheels. opinons? or better yet anyone have these on there rig already? the only thing turning me off is they only come in black and they may look weird on my black truck. sidebiter

Haaaaha...ok scratch that

Your rotors are more then likely warped, you can get them machined but its better to get them replaced.

wow thats impressive, the one i got from my bro is like 4 or 5 years old, it had a little bit of rust around the welds, but i gave it a quick sand down and sprayed it with a low gloss black paint and it looks great against my black truck.

I got the class III oem round bar hitch, which i think looks pretty good on the truck even though it ain't hidden. I have no idea how much they are though, since i stole it off my bros r50, hahaha

Hmmm, I wonder if the previous owner knew about the power valve screws and put the loctite on himself. Mine is an 03 and when I did them I had 2 screws that were off by about a thread, I've put on about 15k since then and no problems.

Ya, Im running my factory wheels right now and the dc-1s are in the garage safe from the salt. Yeah i was thinking of doing that, I was gonna put my old small tires on the factory rims and then put my A/T tires on the dc-1s, that way i can easily swap between the two during the seasons. The thing is though I hate the way my truck looks right now with the factory rims and if I put the smaller tires on its gonna look even worse, right now it looks like its gonna tip over, hahaha. And i would get steelies its just that i dont wanna spend anymore money as I am trying to go back to school, and If I do get the classic II wheels it would be from trading them for my dc-1s, but i gotta wait to see whats going on with my warranty first. maybe i am being to picky though

Ya my DC-1s are 16x8 with 4" backspace and 12mm offset and they rub a little but only at mid crank in reverse, so they arn't too bad. But I really dread getting rid of my dc-1s, they are a sick rim but being from canada i need a rim that dosen't corrode.

classic II Hey everyone Just wanted to get some opinions on these mickey thompson wheels, or does anyone have these on their r50 by chance? pics? I currently have the DC1s from dick cepek but i am having an on going issue with them corroding. I am on my second set and now that the salt has hit them they are corroding just like the last set. So I am considering trading the cepeks in for these MT's.