lowrider
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Posts posted by lowrider
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rears. i know the fronts are different.
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Yes i tried the search...
Are old style (90 and earlier) axle shafts the same for the 91+ trucks?
I know the carriers are different, but the axle shafts.
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K, guys....going to the wrecker's this weekend to start assembling my parts pile for the disco potato's resurrection. Anyone removed the heads from a VG30e/i before? Any tips? what tools will i need other than a socket set, etc...anything special?
My wish list to leave pick n pull with:
Heads
Fan Clutch
Rear Axle Shafts
Spare tire rack studs
CV Shaft
Pass. side e brake adjuster
Driver side parking light
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plus that crossmember is $631 USD and what pezzy like $34,324,874.42 CD???
$729.22
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i'm guessing the 1/0 is for big amps, etc?
do a quest alternator while your under there
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Cut the welds off your skidplate.
Remove the alternator (takes less than 5 mins.)
BOLT your skidplate back on, chances are if you wheel your truck hard, it won't be the last time you need to get that sucker out.
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You can clear 33"s no problem with a little bit of trimming, a coil/t-bar crank lift and a 1"-2" body lift.
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Thanks slick, but i think the shipping charges to calgary would kill me.
Looks like possibly an old school DSM-style head job on a budget
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It was idling when it happened. I cranked it somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 more times trying to find the other issues. There are definitely bent valves, you can hear/feel them.
I may try and slap on a new belt tonight and start it and see if it runs or not. But i doubt it will.
No idea how many km's were on that belt, i checked it in sept. and noticed it had (my own ballpark) another 20k left in it. But wheeling, etc, getting all kinds of crap in there, not surprising it went earlier.
Now i have to decide what to do. I was planning on selling the truck in late april to buy my roomates Montero. However, i can't get much for it with a blown t belt and the laundry list of other things that need attention. So, suck it up and fix it? Or send it to pick n pull?
It was always "i'm going to do the belt and water pump after i do..." since sept. Everybody, this weekend, pull the upper timing cover off and check your belts, and remind me never to buy anything with an interference head design ever again.
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Well, well, well........transistor's fine.
Coil's fine.
Fuel's Fine.
Hey, wait a minute...the distributor doesn't turn.....
Timing belt is not fine..... :sniff:
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Thanks Simon, i'll check it out. The aftermarket coil i bought doesn't come with the power transistor, so i'll have to buy a coil from satan if that's the issue, as the nissan ones come with it. Partsource doesn't list the power transistor at all.
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so should that magic grey box have voltage going into it?
how did you fix yours?
someone from the calgary nissan 4x4 board suggested the timing belt may have skipped a tooth. he had the exact same problem and that turned out to be the culprit.
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There's a little grey box in behind the coil.....In the FSM it's called a Power Transistor...I had a bad connection to it, and mine wouldn't start.....check that one......it gave me symptoms similar to a dead coil.
Thanks Simon
I'll check that tomorrow after work when i go visit my truck, i'm going to owe you a cold one after all this advice in this thread.
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New coil. no start. f *ck sakes.
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Coil is dead.
Anyone in the calgary area have one for sale?
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Eli, try and run the codes. Watch for a crank angle sensor code.
Btw, is the Pathy in Calgary or Airdrie?
It's in Calgary at the Bull and Finch (southland and elbow)
Stupid eli question ---- how do i run codes?
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Yes, the engine turns, but won't fire up. The clicking is coming from the fuel lines.
I had the same starter issue, and replaced mine in Nov, never had a problem with the starter since.
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Anything's possible......and if it's THAT frozen, the electronics could be all fuggered as well....I'd say if she doesn't fire up, bring it to your friends shop and let it sit as you said........should fire right up once she thaws....
see, it was only about -13C last night (9F) and it was about the same temp. this am. Last week got down to -38C (-36F) with the windchill and no issues (other than the rad...grr...)
My fingers are crossed. thanks simon.
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I'm thinking frozen gas too (and hoping for it). I'm going to where the truck's parked after work to see if it'll fire up. If not, tow strap tow to my buddy's stereo shop and leave it parked indoors for a few hours to hopefully thaw out.
Maybe the fuel rail is frozen? and the clicking is the injectors trying to cycle, sending signal to the ecu, attempting to juice the coil, sending a false signal to the tach?.........unlikely.
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i should've put that in the first post. with the key 'on' the pump will whine. after some time under crank, the tach will shoot to 4000 then down to 1000 even though it's not running. leaving the key on once the tach shows 1000 is when the underhood clicking starts.
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I'm not going to do my usual long winded post, cuz i'm way too pissed off right now.
Get fuel last night ($10 of cheap @!*%e, that was all that was close)
Go to the pub. It's cold outside, but not stupid cold.
Remote start the truck from inside when it's time to go, pages back to the remote that the truck started, then shuts down.
Go outside, truck won't start with the key.
Assume it ran out of gas or the lines froze. Added 5 gal of gas and 2 bottles of gas line antifreeze.
Still won't fire up but i can hear a 'clicking' from under the hood and can feel the fuel lines pulsing.
My truck is still in the parking lot, as i had to go to work this morning.
Fuel pump shot? How hard is it to do, it's in the tank i think, but is there separate access through the truck or do you have to drop the tank?
Any other suggestions? this happened not six days after my rad froze and left me stranded on the side of the road in -40C weather for 2 hours.
:help:
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where are you tmorgan? i have my stock springs still, you're more than welcome to them.
and i'll have an extra set of lower spring perches shortly.
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meh...i've seen better.
*paging mookie*
seriously, any SAS'ed pathy is sweet!
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The absolute best mod i've made to my truck, and anyone else with the same i'm sure will agree with me...is the addition of a traction aid in the rear. I did a poor mans spool (see my post) but there's air and elec. lockers avail. and full time drop in lockers. Over tires, lift, and everything else that's done to my truck, it's made the most amount of difference. I snapped an cv shaft on a pretty hard trail shortly after i did it, and had no problems finishing the rest of the run in 2lo with the rear locked, where guys with open diffs and worn lsd's were stuck all over the place.
Just my .02.
Differences in Engines
in The Garage
Posted
I may just swap motors to fix my problem, it looks like i may be keeping my truck longer than i had anticipated, and i have an oppurtunity to buy a motor from a 95.
Are there any differences between the two? 93/94 is when changes to the steering, body and interior were made, but was anything changed under the hood to anyone's knowledge?