mws

I had the exact same problem in left hand turns. It was the right hand door switch. Adjusted the latching plate so the door latched about 1/32" tighter (it kinda didn't close flush before). Problem solved.

3 minutes on online metals tells me I can get all the material delivered to my door for well under $100.... Hmmm.... Maybe I'll even get it powder coated if it comes out real nice. 1x1" square frame with 1 x 1/2" floor slats should look nice and be heck for stout. 1/16" wall would be plenty strong. And no need to use Thule bars at all - I'll just make the feet an integrated part of the thing. If I use a drill driver to remove the "plug" bolts and install the mounting bolts, it could be a 2 minute job to install or remove... Oh great, another project... I gotta get our tow van out of the driveway and to the painter this week!

why wouldnt you buy the thule feet for your truck?? a ) That would be too easy! b ) 'cuz i'm a cheap bugger! c ) 'cuz I got a mig welder and am just looking for excuses to play with it d ) All of the above Weld my own rack.... hmmmmmm... Off I go to Online Metals to price some 1" steel!

Speaking of racks, anybody experiment with moving them forward or backward to find where the noise is minimized? I'd assume moving as far back as possible would be best. If so, getting a shorter (less long) but wider rack may be advantageous to keep noise to a minimum...

Surco Safari: http://www.everythingsuv.com/surco_safari_..._racks-esuv.asp That's a good looking rack as well.

Is that $250 canadian? Hmm... Now that I have a mig welder in the garage, I've been thinking of fabbing up some semi-permanent brackets to attach the bars off my Thule rack to the Pathy. I do not have the factory roof rack, so I plan to make some new uprights with "feet" that conform to/wrap around the edge of the roof. Since it is an '87 2 door, it does not have any kind of door openings or gutters to clamp to. Instead, I though I'd JB-Weld acorn nuts and washers inside the body for a waterproof yet positive mount. I'll just put short s/s button head bolts in the holes when the rack is not on there. Anybody done anything or seen anything like this?

it is a bit feaky how many quakes you guys have had out that way lately... It's just the price we pay to avoid ice and snow storms! I know I chose where I live and work with some (not much, but some) consideration of earthquake risk. About 150 miles away from the san andreas fault is about my closeness limit. And I don't live below dams. Or steep hillsides. Or under heavy objects. Even so, I have found LOTS of great places to live and play!

Freaky, I work at the San Diego airport. The runway seems to be the safest place to be during a quake. Assuming they close the runway and divert all the incoming planes!

Keep your brain engaged and it is possible to drive on the street without sway bars 99.99% of the time. But as an engineer, I have to point out the negative ramifications. Abrupt steering input on the street will result in abrupt weight shifts and the elimination of the body roll reducing sway bars will increase (dramatically) the risk of the "feet in the air syndrome". It's pure and simple physics. And if you lift the center of gravity by lifting the rig, the risk increases even more. So if she rolls over, please don't blame Nissan! They kept them relatively low and installed sway bars to reduce the chances of rollover in normal day to day use. Don't tamper if you're not ready to accept responsibility for the results. Do NOT try to make abrupt evasive swerving manuevers on dry pavement without the sway bars attached. The resulting change in perspective can be disconcerting... Off road, it is almost no risk as the tires will (generally) slide long before they generate enough side load to trip up the truck and roll it. Personally, I will not drive in normal day to day traffic without them attached. Too many idiots out there requiring periodic evasive manuevers. My safety is worth the expense of figuring out a method to easily unhook them for off road use. For now, I live with the lack of flex.

In California, the fines are much higher for speeding and running "pink" lights. So lo and behold, that is pretty much all the officers are required to enforce. We are in a budget crunch after all...

It is still the original clutch... Flat amazing.

Dang straight you do... not only is it not the right part, you can get one of these for a lot less than $40... He's either a dumb arse, or a jerk trolling for dumb arses...

Yeah, I rebuilt the MC and replaced the slave cylinder. I'm afraid the clutch may just be worn out. Piece of crap Jap cars - clutch wears out after only 200,000 miles? Sheesh....

Pulling O2 sensor? I also got lucky - mine came loose with just an end wrench as well. Tips: Douse the threads with PB Blaster for 3 or 4 days before trying. Do heat the pipe and bung with propane torch. DOn't heat the sensor. Give the bung a few sharp raps with a hammer to dislodge rust. Try with wrench , but no gorilla efforts. If really tight, use a 6 point socket, and only a 6 point socket. 12 point will only round it off and you'll have to revert to pipe wrench or vice grips. Most tool shops will sell a special O2 sensor socket with a slot cut in the side to let the wires come out. The other option is to cut the wires and use a regular 6 point socket. Cut the wires at least an inch away from senson so you can splice back together if you fail to get it out.

Wow... are you guys psychic or what? I was just noticing that the clutch in my Pathy (just under 200K miles) is starting to get a little grabby when hot and I should start researching what it takes to replace it. So PLEASE keep us all appraised of what you find! And Earth1 - can you make/send 2 copies of the manual? I would love to have one... Were you planning to e-mail, fax, or mail paper? I can PM you with my contact info. Martin

That's almost a disapointment... I mean, scars are souvenirs in my book! Whenever I'm washing or waxing, each caress of a dent or scratch brings back memories. And I choose to forget the bad ones and dwell on the good ones!

Ohhh.. but wouldn't that scratch the paint? I would never want to risk that... NOT!

Another thing to check: The fuel return line on my 1990 240SX did NOT like the oxygenated fuels when they came out in my area in the mid 90's. Something in the fuel caused the return line to get extremely brittle and it developed cracks and started weeping. Fortunately, I spotted and fixed it before the line blew apart and sprayed all over the place. I replaced it with high pressure fuel line and never had another problem. The vent lines on both of my Triumphs did the same thing within the year. I used polyurethane on those and they've held up well. So check ALL rubber or rubber like components if your area is requiring "reformulated" or oxygenated gas. There were definitely some commonly used materials in the 80's and early 90's that do not like the stuff...

finally... My nephew came down about a month ago to fix a "simple" exhaust leak in the Heep Cherokee he bought for his son. Simple little job... By the end of the weekend, the head was sitting on the workbench and he had to borrow the Pathy to get home. We finally got the rebuilt head back yesterday and stayed up 'til 2 getting that mother back on there... Good news is it all went smooth as silk and he was able to drive it back, leaving the Pathy with me. Now I can get serious about stripping the project down for paint...

Bonus round? Gotta go try it again. Ecch. :oops: I liked him better with his clothes on.... Guess that was for the ladies!

The pump/hold/purge/release method will work pretty well on most vehicles most of the time. However, once you try a MityVac, there's no going back! It makes the job faster and very easy to do by yourself. Get the aluminum version (Silverline?) and it will last you years... I bought mine about 15 years ago. I just had to replace the cups and hoses because they had become brittle, but the pump is still working great. I think the complete kit is around $70. My technique: Use the MityVac to suck the master cylinder dry. Refill with fresh fluid. Bleed the right rear until fluid comes out clean. Then left rear. Then right front. Lastly left front. When you're done, ALL of the old nasty fluid is purged. I do this every two years on my 4 wheel vehicles, every year on the 2 wheelers. Since starting that routine, I have never had to rebuild a master cylinder or brake cylinder! It's the water in the old hydraulic fluid causes the rust that causes brake component failure. Keep the system clean and sealed and they will last decades.

Perhaps you should lay off on the bean burritoes on the cool evenings... (sorry, couldn't resist...) Where is the odor coming from? Tailpipe or from underneath or?

I'm waiting for my honarary stock in them... I spent literally thousands with them when building my tow van. With no regrets. If you spend enough time hunting and shopping, you could find the same stuff a bit cheaper, but you would have to give up a LOT of time, convenience, and service. And you'd end up buying from about 30 different sources to get the same selection. And you'd be waiting much longer. 98% of what I've ordered I received the next day. And on E-Bay, you can fine EVERYTHING cheaper. But of course, once you factor in handling and shipping, it will actually end up costing you a whole lot more.... And that's before you get screwed over by some unethical jerk. Personally, I prefer to take the lower overall cost and higher service route. BTW, their website only lists about 10% of what they carry! If you have a manufacturers part number for a product they don't list, enter it and be surprised.

What's the problem? Seemed pretty easy to me, albeit I was a bit disappointed when I won. Didn't know she had a tattoo there... Kinda skanky looking, I thought...

And of course, check out the garage forum for the sticky that details the parts to put the OEM damper on. Less $, less bling. Works very well. Rancho is Monroe. I'd be very surprised if there is any difference other than the paint color.