mws

Thinking about a little problem I'm having. Is it possible for the timing belt cog on the crankshaft to move? I know the harmonic balancer has a woodruff key, but what about the timing belt?

Outside only... Although the insides were at serious risk when I rode a buddy's YZ426 up! Holy bejeezus, what an UN-user-friendly powerband. Reminded me of the old '85 CR500's. A brutally abrupt power band, no flywheel, and geared to the moon. Awesome on a track of groomed loam, but on a gnarly trail with incredibly sketchytractions? I screamed all the way to the top.... Not sure if out loud, but definitely screaming in my head. Did I mention it was BRAND NEW? I was mortified that I would loop it and send it tumbling and ragdolling all the way back down....

I agree that they would be more stable than jackstands. The negatives are lack of adjustability, their weight, and how much space they require to store.

Shoulda done it sooner! Oh wait, that's no freakin' help at all... Basically, the rotor is rather fused to the shaft due to being there so long. Try depositing a little PB Blaster along the seam and then gently tap on the side of the rotor with a small hammer while pulling firmly. The tapping will help dislodge the crap fusing them together. To prevent recurrence, smear a very thin film of dielectric grease on the shaft before installing the new one.

Most usual cause of that is lots of short trips. Whenever an engine is running, it produces water vapor. If the engine is operated for quite a while, all the exhaust components get hot enough to evaporate most of the water. But if run for only a few minutes, the exhaust tubing and components are not hot and the water vapor condenses on the steel. Repeat that cycle a few thousand times and you have quite the rust generator...

I think he meant front differential, not axle. Having not done that (yet), I'll have to defer advice...

When functioning correctly, it will not hurt performance in any way. It just allows more air (oxygen) into the cat so it functions as efficiently as possible. If not working or eliminated, the cat may not get enough oxygen to fully convert pollutants so it may or may not pass smog tests.

Good on you! Don't expect to get your money back... Just be glad that was a relatively inexpensive lesson in "snake oil marketing". Wanna buy some fuel magnets? How about a "Tornado"? An electric supercharger? How about my book on how to modify your carburetor to get 150 mpg (shhhhh... the chemical companies will put a price on my head if they knew I was selling this..) Bottom line, if it sounds too good to be true, it is (well, at least 99.9% of the time). But you're SOOOO lucky to have us and our bullpuckey detecting mythbusting attitudes and experiences!

Glad to hear it! :cool2:

When you finally have to get in there, do it ALL so you don't have to go back for a loooong time. You'll see why when you do. Kinda like doing timing belt - takes a fair bit of time to get to it. Clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, surface or replace flywheel.

I would classify it as a "semi controlled slide". Start out standing and sliding with feet sideways and hand braced uphill. But somehow the seat of the riding pants got dirty as well!

Hey, it only let's me vote once! I have installed 4 Dynomax's in the last couple years - 2 in pathy's, two in monster tow vehicles. One just last week! Yes, I like them. Quiet but deep and muscular tone, tremendous flow, built to last a lifetime, and about 1/2 price of Flowmaster. Doesn't come with a trendy sticker, though... The latest pathy acquisition has flowmaster. Unless I can pawn it off on one of the kids, it will go on the scrap heap.

With practice, it gets easier.

It shouldn't be exposed to any higher temps. Normally, air will be flowing from that funky valve down to cat. Should not be exhaust gasses flowing back up... But then again it is possible! So I love the high temp silicone hose idea! Where you able to find it locally? And this is that set of headers hastifc had. Guess I'd better check the passenger side before I start hacking the driver side.... Maybe these are some kind of mismarked/mispackaged set. Did MPFI versions still have the air pipe going into the Cat?

Probably to maintain memory.

Sorry to sound blunt, but I advise that you save your time and throw it in the trash now. It is nothing but a $.02 resistor wired in line with a sensor to confuse the ECU into squirting more fuel than necessary.

Thank you for the offer - I love you guys... sniff sniff... I will not need to take you up on it as as I do have a spare pathy lying around (don't we all???) We picked up another 87 last weekend for $340 - mainly for the 5 speed trans and Smittybilt bumper and tons of spares. I do have a welder, and I may resort to that. But I also acknowledge I am a hack welder and welding that thin steel in that location without leaks will be a challenge!

Supposedly are the 464-1 set....

I tried bending by hand - no way. And since it is welded to the cat, it will be kind of a bitch to remove. Welding in an extension will be a bit tricky as it is very thin wall and difficult to access.... Unless someone can tell me it will fit if/when the header is crammed into place (it interferes hard and prevents seating header onto head and really doesn't look like it will get better if I force it), I'm liking the cut out a section and re-route with clamp in replacement section.

Yeah, rerouting is an option, but the lazy part of me is hoping there is another! It is a thin walled rigid steel pipe... Good tip on the repair kit!

We are (finally) installing the Thorleys in my old '87 5 speed, CA model. As I attempt to install the driver side, it appears I am having interference with the AIR pipe. This is the steel 3/4" diam pipe running from the AIR valve down to the catalytic converter. It would appear that the two pipe portion of the header wants go through the same air space occupied by that pipe as it passes the frame rail. Ideas? Eliminating the pipe is not an option for ethical and legal reasons. Anyone else encounter this? What was the solution? I would look at the '88, but my nephew has it this week.

Yeah, no pictures. Sorry. This was a 60 mile "Black Diamond Fiesta!!!" ride. We were attacking the most difficult trails we knew of, and I was with 5 teenage boys. I figured the odds of a camera or cell phone (or me, for that matter) getting through unscathed were too unfavorable to risk. It was a tough ride, and we all made it through unscathed! There was a bit of fuel sharing to get home. It was an epic day! I am still sore, but look forward to doing it again.

Searching for NATO fuel can racks should get you more info. NATO style cans replaced jerry cans a few decades ago, and are far superior.

We were out dirt biking in my favorite place when we came upon a dirt buggy stranded and abandoned out on a trail. Later at camp, we got to talking about how they could get it out, and couldn't figure anything out short of a helicopter. Got me to thinking... What if I got in a situation like that in the pathy? How could I get out? Of course, how he got there was a WTF moment in itself. The trail is clearly marked with a black diamond, which means bikes with EXPERIENCED riders only. The trail sign even has pictures of quads and jeeps with slashes through them. This was a 2 wd custom buggy with VW power. Here's the scenario: Stuck point is about 15 miles from camp. Stuck point is at bottom of stream cut valley. The trail comes around a corner and then drops down, pretty much straight down the side of the hill. I estimate a 400' vertical drop, averaging well over 100% grade. I've had to ride other guy's bikes out of there who couldn't make it, and the owners had to resort to crawling on all fours and digging foot holds to get out. Took over 1/2 hour. In a couple places, it goes almost to about 150% grade for about 4-5 feet. On a bike, it is all about momentum and traction/throttle control. If you do everything perfect, have enough power, and have a very good tire, you can just make it. I have never seen a bike under 200cc make it, nor one with a worn tire. To add a challenge, there is a 90 degree turn at the base, so you have to come around, nail the berm and then HAMMER it for the 20 feet of flat before it goes up. If you hit the base at less than 30 mph, you will not have enough momentum to clear the near vertical sections. And where there are not ruts, it is coarse granite dirt about 6" deep or exposed rock. Stopping is slmost impossible - except for one little section, the bike (and rider) will just sliiiide down if they stop. That one little section is about 3' long and maybe a 75% grade. You can hold yourself there, but barely. Can not get restarted. Have to go all the way to bottom. The other way out is worse - muddy with rutted single track sharp switchbacks. No way a 4 wheeler could fit or make the turns. Up stream is waterfall, downstream is 3' wide canyon. So how to get it out? A winch with about 700' of cable and some blocks (to get around the corners) would work, but those aren't that common.... Adding (lots) of extension to the winch cable will reach, but how to hold stranded vehicle when winch is full and an extension needs to be removed? I guess a few more cables/chains could be used to anchor to one of the trees at the very top... Too steep for trees to grow on the slope itself.

If it is cold where you are, might I suggest Mobil 1 or other synthetic 10w-30? It will flow better at cold temps so it will not cause any excess wear at start up. With as many miles as you have, a bleeding down lifter would not be unusual. The other possibility is a plugging up/sticky lifter. Again, running some high quality synthetic should help as they generally have far superior additive packages and will clean out gummy deposits better.