mws

Ah, here we go: http://www.wiringproducts.com/ Search for R-75A

I also oughta mention the Flex-a-lite 33054. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...+0&autoview=sku This is THE top shelf unit. Variable speed, with 40-45 amp capacity. I haven't tried that particular unit, but am using the 31165 for controlling the low speed on my Taurus fan (purchased before I found out about the 33054). That unit is only rated for 30 amps so can be used for low speed but NOT the high speed. This works out nice as the throttled down low speed is VERY quiet and pulls minimal current. But it was quite a challenge to wire this in along with the manually activated high speed.

Sorry! Just go to Waytech's page and look up their PN 75002. That will be a 50 amp Bosch with tab mount. 75001 for no tab. Still looking for the Bosch 75A - I thought I bought from Waytech but not finding it now. Waytech is my "go to" source for a lot of products. Great prices if you buy in bulk!

Something tells me the average tweaker couldn't operate one of these if their life depended on it... I am pretty sure I could figure out a way to get around ANY theft deterrent available. And a professional thief has way more experience than I.... The objective is to make stealing your vehicle too time consuming or inconvenient for the ones you're worried about. For tweakers, putting the TC case in neutral would likely be plenty. They're looking for really easy marks. For a professional that really wants your particular vehicle, nothing will be enough. Alarm, pager, ignitition kill, exploding seat cushions, whatever. They'll get it.

This ID is not on my favorite reference site, but here's a link anyways as it does have all of the common ones as well as actual specs! http://www.engineersedge.com/hex_bolt_identification.htm

I will find it... Rumor has it the 3.8L fan on HIGH speed draws about 40 amps continuous with a 100+ amp surge at start up. So you should be able to get by on a 40-50 amp relay for quite a while if you include the freewheeling diode across the fan. The risk of running a bit too small is that each time the relay breaks, it arcs. And each arc blows a tiny bit of contact material away. The higher the current draw, the bigger the arc and the more material removed. Running 40 amps through a 40 amp relay means it will likely not exceed its rated life. A 75 amp relay has MUCH larger contacts than a 40 amp. Running 40 amps through a 75 amp relay means it will likely last much longer than its rated life. So you could theoretically use a relay like this and get by just fine: http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAW...F25F002+M37+ENG But I would keep a spare in the glove box. At this price, you can afford to!

That is the theorem, yes. I am going singlehandedly PROVE it so it can become a law.... Boy, I sure hope nobody's done that already.... If I am subjecting all this on myself for nothing, gosh, that would just be a bummer, eh?

Well, I did dump turkey on the other foot at thanksgiving... Not sure why. Spasmodic attacks of mental retardation? Gravity testing?

Lots of vicodin.... I did learn I can NOT take it at night - It wires me and keeps me up for hours. And then when I finally fall asleep, yikes! Dreams are more like hallucinations. Not good. And the concrete is fine. I just shipped 20 of them to your attention via your Fed-Ex account just so you can verify.

I think a worn bushing could be a factor. If the bushings are wasted on only the right side, the axle will shift back about a 1/4" on that side. With the axle now at a bit of an angle, it will tend to drag/scuff that tire a bit. Although I would expect to see a bit of scuffing on the outside of the left tire as well. A long shot, but possible.

Got the paperwork! Looks like what you described. I think I'll check out Rachels as well. Not going to call you 'cuz I'm doped up on Vicodin (dropped some concrete on my foot) and talk like a blithering idiot. Typing I can take a few mulligans on and sound more coherant than I am.

It is a bit of a pain, but doable. You will have to remove fan and accessory belts to get to it. There must be a write up somewhere around here....

I have never seen anyone successfully pushstart an auto. And yes, it will be possible to bump start a stick with just a starter interlock. IF the mouth breather/wanna be thief is willing to extend the effort to try. Most are too lazy. They want the simple, easy mark. Gotta pick your battles. If they want it bad enough to be willing to try to overcome a starter interlock, they would likely just as easily overcome an ignition interlock.

The Dynomax will mellow out a bit over the first couple thousand miles. Nice sound though, eh? Not as raspy or with that tinny overtone of a Flowmaster. Just rumble....

I agree. But I agree with trailchaser and recommend killing only the STARTER, not the ignition. That comes from having an ignition killer malfunction and kill the ignition when I hit a pot hole. On a motorcycle. While passing a truck. With another truck approaching.

hey Thomas... Thank you for taking the time to pull the cam! I still owe you one for the effort, and will not forget. If it was my truck, I would run that cam after polishing it up a bit. But since this is now my nephew's oldest son's truck and he is heading off to college next year, I feel some pressure to do it as close to perfect as possible... I think I'll check out Slick's and let you know!

Reality check: ALL cars are easier to get into than you think.

Personally, I think it is way too small if you plan to tow and bypass your stock cooler. Here's the minimum I would recommend: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...15&autoview=sku Plate style coolers are far more efficient and durable than tube and fin.

Big. VERY big if you live in hot climate and are bypassing radiator cooler SUPER honkin' big and/or 2 of them if you are towing

Thank you. I am really looking forward to receiving the official banking information....

Drove little grey with both of cyl 2's studs missing for about, ohh, 80K miles. It would tick at start up and then quiet down within a couple minutes. It did eventually start to tick longer and louder, which is the indicator it is time to fix. If it is ticking when you get on the throttle, you have VERY hot exhaust gasses jetting out. This can get hard on neighboring wires, hoses, plastic, etc.

Thank you! Thomas has accepted a challenge to become our savior, if that falls through, then these guys and Aaron's sprocket are top candidates!

They should be different. Disc brakes require considerably more pressure than a drum, so a disk/drum setup has to have something (usually called a proportioning valve) to significantly reduce the pressure to the drum end. I'm assuming it is incorporated in the master cylinder on Pathy, but I don't know for a fact. I know it is a seperate component on my Chevy.

pshaww.... You're both, errr, younger, ummm.... Never mind. Back to your previous distraction.

Here comes the cavalry, to our rescue! Thanks, all! Square teeth, just the LH (driver's) side. Aaron - Thank you so much for the offer. If I need it, I will send you my street address. Trade you a TH-700r4 for it! Here are my options for now: 1) Order new Sealed Power cam/sprocket combo from Rock Auto for $150 2) Find a cam from a board member (might need Aaron's sprocket to complete) 3) Pull the cam from little black