bigred07

thats the thing i have no idea if its stock or not it looks like it belongs perfectly with it. it also started after i got it but only when it was cld outside now it just does it all the time. and i don't have a spare radio or anything i tried to take the one out of the hardbody we have but its completely different like only wired for two speakers and stuff. i mean it does need new speakers big time but i don't want to take it in and then get it back and they say we don't know why it does that bla bla bla.

ok so when i turn my radio on (maybe the stock one, its old with casette player...) there is a really louch screetching wining noise coming from the rear speakers just an eeeeeeeeeeeeeeee and its really loud. it will go away if the radio is on for like an hour. it will not go away by using the fad or balance thing to turn off the rear speakers. so i opened up my console thingy and took the radio out and have been playing with it, on the rear speaker plug ther are two black wire one with a white strip and three brown ones the black strip white strip and solid.... if the black striped one is not conected but the others are there is no sound to the back speakers or the screetching. there is a plug with pink wires and the plug is blue but it wasn't hooked up to anything. on the radio itself the little schematic thing it looked like the browm with black wire is supposed to be running to an amp. how do i fix this? cause if there's a short in the wire somewhere getting a new system wont do anything for me.

i'd like to say on my pathfinder and xterra and really old land cruiser. they all have instructions on them on how to shift them into four wheel drive. the nissans are in the visor over the driver side and the cruiser is on the glove box. and the nissan do say stop and put into nuetrul and push the t case lever... i've also never heard a grinding from any of these rigs going into 4 lo.

what is it? i've never heard of it except on this forum. also where do you get it?

that is a very nice looking truck. the tires look a little comical though. you should definately be good to go after you do those engine things you have planned. i had that done to mine right after i got it too and everything is great.

go for it. i'd look pretty sweet in the urban colors i think.

do you mean the interlock? yeah the pickup doesn't have that,

yeah i assume they do and the clutch is old, i can check my repair manual to try and figure out where that is i guess.

i don't know. its set up the same way at the pathfinder, push the clutch turn the key and start it. turn it off push the little black button by the key to get it al the way out. my dad thought maybe it has somethign to do with the ignition but i don't know anything about it. so i asked here since they're so similar.

jump testing the starter is pretty easy. If you have the starter installed: DISCONNECT YOUR COIL WIRE (you do NOT want it to start unexpectedly) Hook a jumper cable to your + terminal and drag the other end under the truck (don't let it ground). Reach up and pull the trigger/ignition wire off the starter solenoid Put a clip lead on the terminal post on the starter solenoid (make sure it is isolated from ground) Test by touching the clip lead to the jumper cable. This will bypass the entire ignition system. If this tests ok, remove the clip lead and plug the connector back into the starter solenoid and try using the ignition key. If this works, you know nothing. If it doesn't, the problem is in the ignition circuit and could be a relay, inhibitor, connection, etc. is this what you were talking about? there's two wired conected to the starter which one is trigger/ingition wire and whats a clip lead?

duh

what all conections?

so we also have an old 86 hard body pick up 4x2. it wont start. new batttery and we pulled the starter out and had it tested it was fine. when you turn the key you can hear some kind of click noise coming from where the started is. any ideas why its not starting and how to fix it?

gotta make sure the transfer case works though....

and i've seen people with worse who wheel it, they like having beet up trucks for their offroading.... so have some fun with it still if you can.

thanks, these look pretty helpfull for me.

glad you walked away man. out here in az though, nice and dry, not as much of rust problem and no added things like salty snow to make it worse. the place i got mine from had had a nother one awhile back so they're here good like finding one that suits your needs. there's that guy out in ca selling a really pretty 87 with a roll cage in the back instead of seats on here...

as far the h1 h3 i've seen both do simialar things and different thing, such as somebody said and h1 wont go through tight spaces very much, but other than that i've seen it where its massive size gives it an advantage, going over a huge boulder/rock thing that a wrangler couldn't, from watching it it looked like the weight just gave the h1 more grip on that rock. im not a big fan of either personally seeing as i can't afford either. thats where the pathfinder comes in.... and the wd are much easier to mod, not that i have yet. but i've drvien an r50 and they way way way more power...

same goes with any hummer, they're freaking huge and way expensive.

that would be interesting, seeing as the r 50 has more power i could see sand and snow.... but i live in az. rocks and ditches it is! and i've never had a problem in sand aka as a washes.

that wasn't the point... the point was you're saying an r50 could outwheel a wd just the way a h3 could a h1... both of which or completely false.

so having it that way, it wont let you put the little plastic cover pieces on will it?

the back of the truck is easy, but last time i did that, the girl i was with got cold so i turned on the car and the heat for al ittle while, turned it off. when the started coming up, i woke up soaked in sweat from the car getting heated up and felt like was gonna die, reached over and poped the rear hatch. that was not the most comfortable night....

yeah clutch bypass, if its in nutral you can push it then start it without the clutch like if you dont want to get in the car, or i was told if you your moving and in gear it can work by just having had pushed it and then if you stall jsut start her up but i've never tried that.

i had the same problem too and need new bars and the dealer gave me new ones for 60 bucks. whatever junk yard you go to, for 180, they're nutso. i just had metal welded in the whole to fit over the sleave for free from the high school auto class, i got hook up at the school. maybe wont last as long but its good for now. and of course new bushings, which i need on all kinds of other things. koveman where did you those new bushing and cup things?