Earth1

If you really want to save $ you can keep stock t-bars if they are in decent shape, I'm still rollin like that. The squeaky Calmini bushings can easily be solved with a high quality waterproof grease. I did a post on here some time ago about squeaky poly bushings and tried to experiment with two different greases and they have both held up forever now. No creaks since. A squeaky bushing means inadequate lube. If you let a poly bushing go dry for 25k of course it will be destroyed. Wow, I just looked at that topic I started and it was in July 06. I've put tens of thousands of miles since with no probs with my Calmini UCA's since.

AFAI can tell they are the same. I went ahead and ordered the Heavy Duty Street Modified kit. I'll post my results when it gets here. The ACT part number for 87-89 300ZX(T) is NX7-HDMM, that is a heavy duty kit with a street/(occasional) race disc. They have other discs with higher torque capacity, but the MM seems like a good disk for a daily driver. It should be a huge improvement over OE... hopefully it fits a Pathfinder.

I know different localities dictate market value, but 3k is too much for a 2wd. It's not uncommon to find them here in Denver for under 2k with less than 200k miles. I'd keep looking.

Hello and long time no see. I'm getting ready for a clutch job and I'm trying to cross reference parts for other Nissan applications. I heard we WD21's share the same clutch as the 87-89 300ZX, but I'm not sure if it's the turbo or non. I can't find the specs in my manual. Can anyone confirm 87-96's use a 250mm pressure plate and 1" 24 spline input? Curious about people's opinions on ACT clutches too. Anyone with personal experience?

So you are using new stock springs?

Hey I just found this, maybe it's what you were looking for: lifter discussion I'm getting ready to pull my covers off to investigate a clacking sound... lifter, loose rockerarm or something. GL I also found this, and I'll give it some thought:

Thanks. There are some numbers on that side that aren't on the other, maybe it's not the original. I don't see any reference in the FSM to tell which one is for the HB, does anyone happen to know what the part number is for either? I'll pull a Tbar and anchor off the JY this weekend.

I took the bar out and it doesn't look bent or damaged. It took a few tries to get back in the right spot, since I had no point of reference of the original position. Took it for a spin around the block and it popped out again. I raised the front end over 2 years ago and haven't had a problem with the tbars since. I haven't been offroad all summer so this is wierd. I'm pretty sure the splines are slipping at the front. The splines stick out of the front anchor less than 1/4 inch on that side only. The snap ring is in the right place at the rear, so the tbar can't be back too far. Could a worn compression rod and busings cause the geometry of the lower link to be off enough that the tbar isn't anchored secure? The adjuster bolt is just hanging lose in the back from lack of tension. It just seems that the tbar is suddenly too short on that side.

Hey guys, haven't been on here for months now. Lots of stuff to do, I haven't touched a computer in forever. I was rollin around in my new neighborhood and decided to take an unfamiliar dip in the street a little fast. To my surprise I heard a really loud pop and the suspension on the passenger side dropped big time. Luckily I was only a few blocks from home because I could barely turn the wheels due to the tire on that side rubbing. The tbar popped out at the adjuster. As far as I can tell, nothing is broken. Heading out now to get a better look and raise her back up. I've never heard of this happening before, but maybe it's more common than I think. I really wasn't taking it TOO fast, just enough for a fun little bounce. The few blocks home was a crazy ride, bouncin all over the place and tire rubbin. Letcha know what becomes of it.

I think all VG30e heads are the same, so any year vg30e should work. Being the same, I don't think a straight swap would gain you any HP. If you are having head issues you could have them rebuilt, but finding newer used heads could be more economical. If you're taking the heads off and have some extra $ you may want to consider some cams if you're looking for more HP. If that interests you, Google Schneider racing cams. I think they do a regrind, so you'd need a spare set or be able to be down for a while. They are way cheap though. If you realy have some spare $, there is the 3.3/3.0 hybrid option that has been done. That would definately gain some power.

Like Slick I oafed mine on my new replacement motor. I wish I could just take it back and have the $3.99 part replaced. Glad you're getting it taken care of though. If you don't mind, what did you pay for the swap?

I had a really loud squeak that got worse until it drove me nuts. I started a topic last summer about it, maybe you've already seen it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5245&hl= I don't think mine were off like that though. I don't think you have to worry too much though about the hard poly bushings like the flex style bushings in the tube uca's. They can't really crush, at least not too easily. General consensus is that poly bushings will squeak, but the greases that Precise1 linked me to have worked great with one application. Good luck. But... for the price you paid for those pups they should be perfect. If there is a prob, they'll probably send you a new one. You will have to wait until the ones you have get there and inspected and a replacement is sent out. Kinda sucks.

Nice. I'd love to see pics of how you mounted.

As mentioned before: DO NOT USE THORLEY GASKETS! I just put on the headers and used their gaskets for the header collector and cat flanges. One blew out right away. That's just a lot of unnecessary work to replace when you can avoid it in the first place. I was reccomended to use Fel-Pro, but couldn't find those for the lower flanges, only for header to block. If you can get something on the studs to hit with a hammer before removing that will help break up the rust. Like Casey said PB Blaster will help a lot. That little broken sheild bolt may be a bit of a pain, but just wait to see if you can jerk the shield off (broken bolt in place) when all the other bolts are off (if not you may need a bolt extractor). You'll be huckin those sheilds anyway, no need to be careful with them. No use for them with headers. Remove anything that's in your way if you can , it will save you time. You will need new studs and nuts for sure and if the budget allows new washers too. Beware that hardware ain't cheap. I spent almost $100 just on that. Check the pinned topic in the garage for updated stud part #'s. Head, valve cover, and intake gaskets are an entirely different and unrealted project, but if you have the time will and money, Why not? If youre going for one of those, then yes do all of them. As well as the stuff Slick mentioned. For the headers some helpful stuff: -various lengths of ratchet extentions are pretty necessary; up to at least a foot would be good -gear (ratcheting) wrenches are really nice -air tools if you can get ahold of would help for a couple spots -a cheater pipe to slide over your ratchet handle- cut to necessary length -a second pair of hands -can't remember nut sizes, but new Thorley's are standard as well as metric for header stud nuts -oxygen sensor if you don't know when last change was is a good idea, if budget allows- again like another $100 -RTV silicone -new studs go shorter end into the block Good luck! you've made a wise decision.

Good to know.

Wow nice work and like they said, so quick. I sure could have used some help lately.

I'd be pretty freaked with holes in my tank. Go grab one at a junkyard.

Looks good! That's a fair price for a bumper if someone wanted another. Right about there with the price of some others I've looked at. What did you guys do for a finish? Paint? Powder coating and shipping would probably make it more expensive than if I had one made locally that I could pick up but if I lived nearer the North border I'd be interested. Any pics from the side or 3/4 angle? Again really great design, one of my favorites.

Thanks kingair. It looks mostly like the info in the factoy service manual that I'm using -- but an excellent link for anyone that doesn't have that book. :cool2: Also a great way to get pages from the manual printed rather than tugging around and greasing up my manual.

I may have diagnosed the oil pan leak wrong. I think (fingers crossed) it may be just power steering fluid. It was looking dark, but I think it was from dirt on the outside of the engine. The nut on one of the lines on top the pump was loose and definately leaking. The main exhaust leak has been fixed. The gasket on that flange blew out already. It was missing a layer for about 1". I guess Thorley gaskets do suck. I could see the carbon from the leak on the flange. I replaced it with the ring type seal and I can't feel a leak anymore and it sounds better. I still smell exhaust though. Maybe I'm just not used to the sound of the headers, but it sounds leaky when I give it gas. Not a tick like the old manifold leak, just kinda raspy. It's not what I expected it to sound like. Does an exhaust shop have a way to test for leaks? I can't feel it blowing out any of the joints. I gained a little more power by fixing that gasket issue, but it still doesn't feel like a cam & header modified engine. I didn't mess with the timing yet today. It idles low and lumpy kinda like a Harley, not so low that it dies but way differnent. It will be interesting to see how it responds to a higher octane gas. I wasn't expecting a drag car, but I'm not seeing the results I was expecting yet. I will try reading the ECU tomorrow.

Now I've found another leak. :oops: Looks like it's coming from the oil pan seal. Great. Can the oil pan come out with the engine in place? It looks like it would be a challenge. This is so depressing. For the exhaust I'm only finding flange gaskets that have a metal crimp ring around the hole. Besides the shape, they're nothing like the Thorley gaskets. It doesn't seem like that ring would do much considering the flanges have those raised welds. I would think a softer gasket would do better. I found some high temp paste that cures hard for patching exhaust. I'm gonna try it bettween the flange and gaskets. Changed the idler pully and the sound stopped. I effed the bearing in the other I guess. So I can expect it to get worse here real quick. SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET! I need a beer.

I'll just give it a few days and get my other probs smoothed out. If It's leaking too bad I'll pull the tranny and get to it. If I ever were to do this again, I'd plug all the oil lines before installing and dump some oil in to see if there were any leaks. Can't believe I didn't do that. :X :X

Nope justa finicky manny tranny.

I drove it around for a while today and it's running pretty good -- but I have some bugs to work out. Man am I glad I didn't gloat yet. First and worst is painful. An oil leak at the tranny. It's not gushing but definatlely leaking; actually more than my old motor. I'll have to pull the tranny to find the leak. No way around it. I can't imagine why my new seal is leaking but it is. I can live with it for a while maybe until my suspicious transmission bites the dust. Or, I may just get right to it. Exhaust leak. The triangle joint at the header collector on the passenger side is leaking at one bolt. It's leaking enough to feel it with my hand. Just in that spot as far as I can tell. I've progressively cranked the bolts down to the point the washers are cupping and it won't seal up. I'll take that piece off and check the flange and gasket. It may be effecting the compression too; I am definatley missing power. I was thinking of using 2 gaskets on that side. I can hear a hint of nice sound, but mostly just a crappy leak pretty loud throught the floorboard. The idler pully is bent. I may have tensioned the belt before tightening the center bolt. Can't remember. It makes a nice little whine, Ryan actually caught that one for me. I just happen to have a spare and I'll be sure to do it right this time. The gas gauge was all over the place for about 20 miles but it seems to have settled down. There is a definate lack of power. The exhuast leak may be most, if not all of the cause. I need to make sure the throttle cable is adjusted right, something I forgot to check. I still haven't touched the distributor -- Going with the obvious stuff first. 85 octane could be contributing too. Nothing is toooo awful, if it weren't for the oil leak it wouldn't be a big deal. I expected some issues but that one hurts. Back at it tomorrow...

Thanks for the ideas. I got it figured out. After looking at Ryan's truck I realized I had the fuse relay thing that's bolted with the positive terminal on the wrong spot. I had it screwed down to the fender like a ground. Screwed it to the positive post and problem solved. It runs! :cool2: It's running a little rough but I only ran it for about 15 minutes tonight. I'll try to tweak the idle tomorrow. I still have to cinch up the slide joint on the exhaust. I didn't have the shifter boot on and it stank to high heaven in the cab for the test drive around the block. It is so much louder with the headers and especially with the leak at that joint. I still need to reconnect the broken power steering plug, drain the water in the radiator and get some coolant in there, top off the oil, tighten exhaust and final adjustments with the idle. I still have some 85 oct gas in the tank, trying to decide if I want to drain that and get some higher octane or just run it and start with a fresh tank of something higher. I suppose I'll see how the new cams respond to both. I can't believe I've pulled it off! It's still too soon for gloating but the feeling of accomplishment is starting to set in. I'm getting tired of spending my evenings in the garage, and borrowing cars, and commuting back and forth. Looking forward to driving my truck. -bounce-