Earth1

I don't know what to think about relocating the filter. I did about a year ago and have had issues with oil pressure and lifters ticking since. As a matter of fact, I'm taking mine off next oil change to see if anything changes. I put mine on the passenger firewall, I think where the fuel filter was stock. Maybe if it were mounted lower the oil pump wouldn't have to work so hard to gut oil up there. I don't think it's that big of an issue though, lots of people have no problems with it... Something to look into and consider. It does make changing the oil so much easier and cleaner though.

That's a burly hinge. How do you latch it?

Ouch! I didn't realize it was that much. The valve cover gaskets could be easily be done by a fairly handy person in a few hours. I think my gaskets were like $40.

I've had 2 new seals leak on mine now. I'm going to pull my tranny again this weekend and I'll be using a speedy sleeve this time. A mechanic friend of mine thinks you should use a Nissan RMS rather than Fel-pro or similar, I guess it's a better fit. If your truck is a manual that oil leak could eventually blow back and glaze your clutch, not a good thing. Other than that just check the oil level frequently.

Simon maybe you already know this, but I was just told that the XJ/TJ/ZJ's have the same size coils and the spacers are are available in a few sizes. I hope that's true cuz I need some spacers too.

I used to have an 82 yota SR5 short bed straight axle with a rare 22r-te (turbo 4cyl ) transplant from a 1st gen 4runner. The body was about gone with cancer but it was really fun off-road for a $900 stocker. Someone actually stole that ugly SOB, so I got the Pathy. Old Toys seem to be popular here.

I would bet they aren't using the grease I'm talking about then. The stuff is ridiculously thick, thicker than honey and it's teflon based so water proof. It has held up for ever on mine with wheeling through water, mud, dust, heat, cold. Not to mention Magnesium Chloride, and regular blastings with a pressure washer. I used to hate my UCAs till I started using it. I was also greasing weekly if not more often.

Anything is possible with enough $$$ and a good fab shop. As far as an easy drop in there isn't one. People have been talking about this forever, the issue with a Pathfinder is limited room for a VG30DETT or motor of your choice. You'd have to modify the frame to make it fit. It has been done. Pathfinder enthusiasts have been dreaming of a bolt on supercharger since the L&P model, so far no one produces one. It seems like interest in Nissan in the 4x4 world is gaining interest though, maybe someday. You could always put a detriot motor in there, I want to keep it all Nissan though. I won't even put a dana axle on (waiting for a viable Nissan axle solution).

The bushing issue can be easily solved by using the right lube. Granted it took a while to figure it out. If anyone is destroying bushings it is their fault for running them dry; if it's squeaking it's not lubricated. I was going to add zerks to mine the next time I had them off to grease, but that was like 2 years ago- I'm still on the same grease, and bushings. Anyone with Calmini arms or any poly bushings should use a super thick marine grade lube like NEO, problem solved. My opinion, but the Calmini arms are by far the best arms out there. Just look at them. Sure they cost more, but you get what you pay for. Every time I get an alignment the techs are like "jesus those are beefy". If you can spare the change for the Calmini UCAs and want an indestructable upper arm, get them. Especially if you're wiling to pay the price of the AC kit; the calmini arms and some jeep coils will only cost you about $50 more. Calmini seems to have developed a stigma on forums by a bunch of people spreading rumors with no experience with the product or the company. I've ordered from them twice and had nothing but excellent service.

This should be a pinned topic in the Garage. Like Greg said, fill to the fill plug hole, but here's the specs for the record. From the Nissan factory service manual: Engine Coolant (US quarts): 2WD : 10-1/2 4WD: 11-1/2 reservoir tank: 7/8 Engine Oil (US quarts): 2WD w/filter change: 4-1/4 w/out filter: 3-5/8 4WD w/filter change: 3-7/8 w/out filter: 3-1/8 Manual Transmission Oil (according to a TSB): The fluid has to be filled 1.5 liters above the fill plug, for a capacity of 5.1 liters. The truck has to be tilted some or filled through the shifter opening. Don't use GL5. Automatic Transmission Fluid (US quarts): 2WD: 8-3/8 4WD: 9 Transfer (US quarts): 2-3/8 Differential (liters): Front : 1.5 Rear: 2.8

265/70/16 are about 32/10.5 I'm completely unfamiliar with r50's but there are a ton of threads on here about tire size. It's a friendly gang here, but tire size questions do get old. Wheel size doesn't necessarily effect tire size. A 31 is a 31 whether it's on a 15 or 16" wheel. There is an extensive member review of tires in the product review section, I'm sure the Revos are mentioned several times.

FYI it's a 27mm for the crank bolt. Don't worry about messing the timing up they make it pretty fool proof. There are alignment marks on the pully, belt and cover.

Hmm I feel like I'm missing something here. Have any pics? Are you sure all the bolts are out? The metal plate has some grommets that seat into the block/or tranny can't remember which side- they are only like 1/4" long. With a little room for play they should pop right out. Maybe it's RTV'ed in place? Try to coax those hard lines a bit to make room. Is the tranny loose? You'll want to have that loose to re-install the motor anyway. It's only 10 bolts for the drive shafts and mount. If you can get a jack under the tranny and lift/slide it back an inch or so I bet it will help. Hey don't forget to put those stupid plates back before you re-install. I have retardedly done that twice.

I know, I've been thinking of buying out of state and driving it back. Worth it if the price is right. I'm not finding many cheaper than here though. If you're serious I could look at it. Sorry to hijack Kit. Back to skyline talk.

I've been thinking of getting one lately. I'm looking for deals on the net every day. A skyline would be sweet, but definately out of my budget. For 1/3 the price of a R33/R34 you could find a built Z pushin 500HP. another example Still a fairly rare car. There must be a lot here, cuz they go for less here on average than most states.

Yep everything on your Pathy is metric, unless someone had put standard hardware on somewhere along the way (aftermarket exhaust, etc). You'll find you commonly use sizes 10,12,14, sometimes 8,17,19mm- so may as well get both a socket and wrench set. Doubles of the commonly used wrenches would be nice. Longer wrenches will tend to get in the way, there are a lot of tight spots. Some extensions and wobbles will come in handy, and if you can afford it gear wrenches make so many things easier. I sometimes use a baby 1/4" ratchet in tight spots. Also a 1/2" drive ratchet (or a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter) will be needed if you plan on changing the fluids in difs, tranny and transfer yourself. I bet if you get a "kit" there will be a bunch of stuff you never use and a few things you use all the time. I buy most of my tools used, pawn shops, and garage sales. Try craigslist, you'll find a ton of tools there. Some peeps are tool snobs, but even the cheap ones do the job. I would stay away from cheap ratchets though. Cool, once you start wrenching you'll get so much more confident about working on your truck. good luck.

Dude you could have a custom bumper made for less than that. The ARB looks good, but I think you'd be paying more for the name. I'm sure a good metal shop could make a similar design for less than that. That's just my opinion, I'm too cheap to drop +$800 on a bumper though.

10k will get you a sweet Z. I see them in Colorado all the time for less than that with some mods. example

There also seems to be a difference in the later years, shaped slightly different and maybe a different plastic or finish.

Like rusty said- look through all the dialog here. There is more Pathfinder information here than you will find anywhere on the internet; especially for those not building a rock crawler, but want a solid 4x. You will learn so much about the truck by just reading through stuff. Have fun; and remember there are many knowledgeable people on here to answer questions as they come. That's great that the Pathy has always been in your family, I wish I'd inherit one like that.

That popping noise is probably coming from the two bolts that attach the lower control arms to the frame. pop your head under the front bumper and try tightening those. Manifold- a pain and probably not the most important thing you can do if you have a list of issues. brakes- did you bleed all the old fluid out? If not, there may be some air in the system. Go to the rear passenger side and bleed till fluid is clear & no bubbles. gas mileage- clean air filter? tires inflated properly? There's a sticky posted in the garage I think about cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor- do that, run some BG44 fuel injector cleaner, mix with a tank of gas. torsion bar lift and swapping some longer coils in the back is a pretty simple job. That will help make room for your wider tires. The most important thing to look for before dumping your heart and soul and duckets into it is frame rust. Check the frame thoroughly for rust. For a $100, I'd say you have a good start as long as the frame is in good condition. You don't even want to know what I've spent since the day I bought mine. Good luck and welcome!

Just saw that on another forum. Amazing.

csutke- there's a place in Denver called BDM Performance Exhaust on Knox Ct. (near I-25) by 6th ave that did a clean job on mine. 2.5", Magnaflow cat/muffler for around $300. I had the Thorleys so I only needed from the y back (not sure about r50s). Pretty cool guys. If you're down here much I can show you their work and you can hear my magnaflow- Not sure if you've heard one on a Nissan, i really like the sound.

My setup is Thorelys, 2.5", and Magnaflow cat/muffler. I love the way it sounds. It has a kind of unusual deep "Japanese" sound to it. It peaks out deepness at about 3000-3500rpm. Sometimes I catch the ricers looking around for a resonator on everything around them.

Without a lift it will be quite a bit more PITA. You might just want to replace them as they break.