Earth1

265/70/16 are about 32/10.5 I'm completely unfamiliar with r50's but there are a ton of threads on here about tire size. It's a friendly gang here, but tire size questions do get old. Wheel size doesn't necessarily effect tire size. A 31 is a 31 whether it's on a 15 or 16" wheel. There is an extensive member review of tires in the product review section, I'm sure the Revos are mentioned several times.

FYI it's a 27mm for the crank bolt. Don't worry about messing the timing up they make it pretty fool proof. There are alignment marks on the pully, belt and cover.

Hmm I feel like I'm missing something here. Have any pics? Are you sure all the bolts are out? The metal plate has some grommets that seat into the block/or tranny can't remember which side- they are only like 1/4" long. With a little room for play they should pop right out. Maybe it's RTV'ed in place? Try to coax those hard lines a bit to make room. Is the tranny loose? You'll want to have that loose to re-install the motor anyway. It's only 10 bolts for the drive shafts and mount. If you can get a jack under the tranny and lift/slide it back an inch or so I bet it will help. Hey don't forget to put those stupid plates back before you re-install. I have retardedly done that twice.

I know, I've been thinking of buying out of state and driving it back. Worth it if the price is right. I'm not finding many cheaper than here though. If you're serious I could look at it. Sorry to hijack Kit. Back to skyline talk.

I've been thinking of getting one lately. I'm looking for deals on the net every day. A skyline would be sweet, but definately out of my budget. For 1/3 the price of a R33/R34 you could find a built Z pushin 500HP. another example Still a fairly rare car. There must be a lot here, cuz they go for less here on average than most states.

Yep everything on your Pathy is metric, unless someone had put standard hardware on somewhere along the way (aftermarket exhaust, etc). You'll find you commonly use sizes 10,12,14, sometimes 8,17,19mm- so may as well get both a socket and wrench set. Doubles of the commonly used wrenches would be nice. Longer wrenches will tend to get in the way, there are a lot of tight spots. Some extensions and wobbles will come in handy, and if you can afford it gear wrenches make so many things easier. I sometimes use a baby 1/4" ratchet in tight spots. Also a 1/2" drive ratchet (or a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter) will be needed if you plan on changing the fluids in difs, tranny and transfer yourself. I bet if you get a "kit" there will be a bunch of stuff you never use and a few things you use all the time. I buy most of my tools used, pawn shops, and garage sales. Try craigslist, you'll find a ton of tools there. Some peeps are tool snobs, but even the cheap ones do the job. I would stay away from cheap ratchets though. Cool, once you start wrenching you'll get so much more confident about working on your truck. good luck.

Dude you could have a custom bumper made for less than that. The ARB looks good, but I think you'd be paying more for the name. I'm sure a good metal shop could make a similar design for less than that. That's just my opinion, I'm too cheap to drop +$800 on a bumper though.

10k will get you a sweet Z. I see them in Colorado all the time for less than that with some mods. example

There also seems to be a difference in the later years, shaped slightly different and maybe a different plastic or finish.

Like rusty said- look through all the dialog here. There is more Pathfinder information here than you will find anywhere on the internet; especially for those not building a rock crawler, but want a solid 4x. You will learn so much about the truck by just reading through stuff. Have fun; and remember there are many knowledgeable people on here to answer questions as they come. That's great that the Pathy has always been in your family, I wish I'd inherit one like that.

That popping noise is probably coming from the two bolts that attach the lower control arms to the frame. pop your head under the front bumper and try tightening those. Manifold- a pain and probably not the most important thing you can do if you have a list of issues. brakes- did you bleed all the old fluid out? If not, there may be some air in the system. Go to the rear passenger side and bleed till fluid is clear & no bubbles. gas mileage- clean air filter? tires inflated properly? There's a sticky posted in the garage I think about cleaning the Mass Air Flow sensor- do that, run some BG44 fuel injector cleaner, mix with a tank of gas. torsion bar lift and swapping some longer coils in the back is a pretty simple job. That will help make room for your wider tires. The most important thing to look for before dumping your heart and soul and duckets into it is frame rust. Check the frame thoroughly for rust. For a $100, I'd say you have a good start as long as the frame is in good condition. You don't even want to know what I've spent since the day I bought mine. Good luck and welcome!

csutke- there's a place in Denver called BDM Performance Exhaust on Knox Ct. (near I-25) by 6th ave that did a clean job on mine. 2.5", Magnaflow cat/muffler for around $300. I had the Thorleys so I only needed from the y back (not sure about r50s). Pretty cool guys. If you're down here much I can show you their work and you can hear my magnaflow- Not sure if you've heard one on a Nissan, i really like the sound.

My setup is Thorelys, 2.5", and Magnaflow cat/muffler. I love the way it sounds. It has a kind of unusual deep "Japanese" sound to it. It peaks out deepness at about 3000-3500rpm. Sometimes I catch the ricers looking around for a resonator on everything around them.

Without a lift it will be quite a bit more PITA. You might just want to replace them as they break.

If it's not too late, and you are interested I have a set of sensatracs I will give you-free. They were used less than a year up till I lifted. The fronts do have dents on the covers from contacting my UCAs but work perfectly fine. You could cut that part off if you wanted. They have been sitting in my stock spare pile forever. I just needed longer shocks with flexible boots to clear my UCAs.

I used Earth1 for years as my graffiti alias-it was original. No, I didn't tag your garage. Fits nowadays too with all the treehuggin I do.

AFAIK it has larger/harder bearings, better seals (double spring), larger disk surfaces, and modified gear band. I'll let you know how I like it.

Dude, sweet setup. I'm totally jealous.

It took a while but I got my tranny back today. Nice and shiny. It was completely chewed up; it had been going out for a long time. I ended up needing a complete rebuild and had a performance kit installed. For anyone interested there's a kit that's called a "hillclimber kit" available that fit my 92. It will cost you some extra dough- my guy's cool and cut me a deal. I think I'm addicted to upgrades, but this new setup should handle a lot of abuse. I still have the chore of installing; I'll probably just take my time. I've been enjoying the work more when I do it a little at a time instead of marathons of kicking and cursing. Hopefully my next post on this will be a performance report.

Future reference: anyone needing rear cam seals or rear main seal housing will have to buy from the dealer. They call them rear plate seals and rear crank seal retainer. Local dship said they have never even stocked the rms retainer.

That job sucks. I was going to re-use my tranny until it went, but NOT now. That's not a job I hope to do again anytime soon. Especially tough working alone. The only real issues I ran into were seized exhaust bolts and a stripped tbar bolt head. And of course, my lack of a third hand. I recently bought a jointed ratchet like this: SWEET TOOL and it made getting to some of those real PITA bolts a breeze. I decided to have my transmission rebuilt. It has been going to hell, and even quicker here lately with a nice whine. The shop came and picked the unit up from my place. I bought an ACT Heavy Duty clutch kit, almost ready to install. Working on changing the RMS and rear cam seals. I also found a leak in the brake MC and replaced it. Gonna change all the fluids while she's down, diffs and all. I am having problems finding the RMS housing and rear cam gaskets. I couldn't find the rear cam seals when I did the motor swap so I cut some out of gasket material... they were leaking; probably not thick enough. Even the dealership is stumped- maybe we don't know what to call the part according to their system? Anyone had luck buying either?

Hey man I feel your pain, I just pulled my trans by myself too. The screwdriver in the flywheel trick works great if you're working alone. There is a nice hole in the crossmember that will lodge a screwdriver beautifully. I would think the seal would be fine. If you were to drop a bolt in a tight spot, you can magnatize a tool by rubbing it on a magnet.

I always assumed those were pressed rivets and had to be drilled out?

I did the same as Simon. You can't tell the holes are there with the carpet back in place. FYI you can get plastic body plugs at Jeeper stores. The back bolts are welded to a big square washer so they don't turn.

Second post in like 15 minutes about the squeaky bushings... There is nothing wrong with the Calmini bushings, although they should make the UCA with a zerk. It's a matter of using the right lube. I used the Neo watercraft stuff Glenn's talking about and it has lasted for at least 20K miles and 15 months. That's with plenty pressure washes/2 hot summers/road de-icer/water crossings/etc since. Any very thick marine/waterproof grease should work fine. The only way I can imagine wearing those bushings out is to let them squeak dry for ever. If they squeak, they're not lubed well.