Earth1

Looks awesome on your black ride. I've always liked black wheels with chrome.

This is just a guess, but see if the mount on the bottom of the radiator is catching.

That's the exact problem I had with an adapter I bought from an Ebay store. Still haven't used it yet becuase the mounting holes and the intake hole don't line up. Yours looks like mine, but not aluminum. I hope for you they sent the wrong part and you can get the right one. We need a better source for those things.

I tried without when I first did my lift, gets dirty too fast with a wider stance. Couldn't see out the windows so I put them back on. Kinda reminds me of a Rodeo without.

Cams are definately on my dreamlist. If anyone hasn't seen it, they put new cams on the Project Pathfinder with some pretty nice results. Estimated 25 HP. http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/august04/Pathfinder/

Rough times, ouch. Don't know about the bent frame, but I just had a similar issue with a spindle bolt into the frame. I found a tap at local metric bolt store, and that cleand up the hole real well. If the hole is really stripped, some people here sugested I try a helicoil insert. Here's a couple of links from advise I got. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4007&hl= http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/...?TOPIC_ID=15780 88 posted the bolts specs on the second one. Good luck with that.

Hey GrimGreg, does that Altima adapter have an off-center intake hole, like ours? I thought I got one recently on ebay but the hole is centered in the square part of the adapter and doesn't quite match up.

Hey Packman, good to see you over here. That's a great idea about the jeep site. I'm looking for some new coils too, and I'll try that.

My Pathy is about 5.5" over stock, nothing trimmed. I have 32" MT's and they rub when I pull into a slanted driveway, and sometimes when I have passengers and/or a heavy load. I don't know about those 35's man. That size tire would take a toll on your gas mileage, and your pep, and some argue they will cause other problems. If my Pathy was a toy though, and not my regular ride; I'd probably try to stuff 35's in there. Good luck.

Thanks.

I just asked this question in the garage pinned topic about spring options. 88 was guessing a 3" replacement JGC coil would lift a pathy 5-6". If you used those you'd probably have to lengthen the brake line, the panhard rod might need some modification, and some looong shocks. Since we're limited by how far the front can be lifted (about 3") anything more than that in the back would give a Pathy a pretty hodtrod stance. I think you'll want to use the Rancho 9000's (or another 2.5"+ shock) in the back, or your rear articulation will suffer.

I'm sure someone over at NissanOffroad.net or the likes would want those HB UCA's. :type:

There's been some talk lately of using aftermarket lift springs for a JGC. There are some front coil springs available at partsamerica.com for Grand Cherokees with 2 and 3 inch lifts. Can anyone confirm using these to lift a pathy? It would be hard to guess how much lift they would give. I know anything about 3" over stock will start to make the rear higher than the front but I wouldn't mind an inch or so higher in the back. Any thoughts?

The UCA's don't lift the front, the torsion bars do. I got maybe 2.25-2.5 with the JGC coils (pigtail cut-off), and I have a tire carrier. I ran for a few months with stock UCA's, but didn't like the way they were wearing my tires. Thinkin bout trying aftermarket Jeep coils (meant to lift the JGC) for some more height. My front is level with the back (even before new UCA's), with a little room to spare at the bumpstops. I'm definately getting new front shocks. The top of mine have already bent a little from the new UCA binding it. How do those CALMINI shocks ride Red? Did you happen to get a before and after measurement? Curious if those springs give a true 3".

My internet was down over the weekend. Thanks for the info. I'm going with the brake suggestion first. Don't really want to take the hubs apart again if I don't have to. Seems more likely a brake issue than both hubs (one recently serviced) having problems at the same time. I'll update when I get it in the garage.

I left this exact post on 88's board. Sorry if anyone has already read it. I took my truck up to a trail to try out the new control arms. I engaged 4H and started up a hill right at the beginning of the trail. After a short distance I started smelling something hot. Hopped out to see what was happening, and there was a faint amount of smoke coming from inside the wheel well (passenger) and my hubs were HOT both sides. My brake warning light just came on a couple of days ago, but I don't think it has anything to do with it because I wasn't using the brakes; I was going uphill. I know something is really wrong and don't know where to start looking. I just replaced the driver's side wheel bearings about 2 months ago, and the hub looked good. The weird thing is, I drove around the block a couple of times in 4wd when I got home and the hubs would not get hot. It seems to only happen when the front is really pulling hard. This one has got me worried a little. Any ideas? I noticed a hot smell a few months back when I pulled off the road and got stuck in the heavy plowed snow on the side of the road. I was already in 2WD when I pulled off and got stuck. I had to engage 4WD without any running room just to get out. At the time, I thought the hot smell was normal because I was really stuck. It's possible I effed something up then and today just finished the problem.

Yep I was trying propane. I suppose MAPP would have been nice, but I didn't have a can around. New spindles would definately be the fastest way.

Anyone know where to find an aftermarket front stabilizer bar for a lifted first gen Pathy? My bushings look like crap and the bar is bent up on both sides. :confused:

Keep us posted on those lift springs. Those aftermarket JGC coils seem like a good idea. Or has someone already tried the coils that will lift a JGC? I thnik I'm confused.

I've been looking at the CALMINI shocks too. I'd like to see how those work out.

I remember reading somewhere that the Laredo model had a slightly thicker coil. Could add a little extra lift.

The install went pretty smooth. Just a few afterthoughts. Loosen the ball joint nut on bottom before removing the old UCA. A pickle fork is nice for removing the BJs. Drilling out the bushings is way easier than burning them, I tried both. One of the hardest parts for me was getting the new BJ and UCA to line up. I finally used 2 scratch awls and 2 smaller srcrewdrivers to line up the 4 holes, and a bottle jack to move the lower assembly up. I had a stripped spindle bolt, so I just got 4 new ones, and a tap to clean all the holes up with. I have one concern though. There is barely any room between the front of the shock and the UCA. The UCA actually contacts my shock when the BJ mount is rotated up to about 90 degrees. I'm not sure if that angle is beyond the actual travel of the suspension, it's hard to tell without the wheel on. Has anyone had a similar problem with aftermarket control arms? Is there a shock with a smaller top diameter? My sensatracs have the wider part on top, maybe an opposite design would fit better. http://usera.imagecave.com/Earth1/ucaproject.jpg

Thanks for that description. I'm puting new UCAs on this weekend, and that info is handy.

What do I think of the Calmini UCA's ... I think they look pretty cool sitting on my living room floor. Maybe I can get to that this weekend.

Man, I always miss out on pics. I am convinced this forum software doesn't like my MAC. I'm sure it looks tight though.