Earth1

Rear spoiler glass hinges?

Lots of places sell a cheap black steel wheel. You can find them for less than $50 a piece at many tire/wheel stores. Easily replaced if damaged. Chrome is fine, but a bit of a pain sometimes. I've always loved black wheels on a black truck. Look at Mudfinders ride, he's got that setup and it looks good.

That's funny!

Cool pics.

Holy hotrod man! Get that front end up! Nice improvement though.

I agree. The squeak thing is annoying. But, Calmini UCAs are very well made. Way more solid than any other ones I've seen. I can't imagine damaging mine. The guys at my alignment place said they were the best they've ever seen. If you can spare the dough, I'm sure you'll like them.

Good idea. Little grease reservoirs. Maybe next time I have them off.

I have an excellent metric bolt supply store I use here in Denver. Post the specifics and I'll see if they have it. Just and idea... I actually replaced two I stripped with extra bolts I had. Just drilled an access hole big enough to fit a socket, lifted the two little tabs holding stock nut/washer and replaced it with the new ones. After I put a rubber cap on it, can't even tell it's there under the carpet. Some guys don't like drilling new holes in their ride though.

+1 for including all Pathy models or a run photo with a couple in it. Photoshoot time. Actually derogate's 2nd idea with the black & white filtered photo would work well for using trucks from different photos.

No music while wheeling, I like to hear what I'm breaking. For general rollin around stuff, underground hiphop. None of that Ludacris or 50 cent crap. In general, jazz, blues, hiphop, beats and some heavy stuff if I'm in the mood.

Hello and welcome from another Hoosier. Grew up in Muncie, lived in Bloomington for some time. If you're ever down in southern IN there is some wheeling there.

How would I try to replace the connector on top of the MAF? Is it a bad idea to try to cut & splice, or does it have to be re-wired all the way through?

I took off the tube and no leaks. All the lines were tight. I'm close to admitting defeat and limping over to the nearest mechanic. Any other suggestions? This really blows.

Hey man, that sounds a mighty lot like my issues before I got a new CL. Mine stopped while turning too.

I tried using a borrowed MAF and it still runs like crap. I checked the connector and all vacuum lines I could find in the area. I can't see any reason for this problem. WTF is going on? I don't see how this could be related since it really has nothing to do with the intake, but could a bad o2 sensor cause an engine to barely run? That would be some coincidence that my truck ran fine, changed the air filter, and now the o2 sensor crapped. Maybe this will help someone with a diagnosis- Parked: -Engine seems to start fine. -Throttle is ok for first few hundred RPM. -Pressing down fast on accelerator it bogs down at mid range, makes a deep sound and almost dies. -Feathering gas to get past bogged range engine will rev to high RPM, responds normally to "racing" the accelerator once higher RPM are reached. -Smells rich. Driving: -Engine died twice trying to move out of parking spot. -Takes careful feathering of gas to keep engine from stalling at a stop. -Only had it up to about 25 MPH, not much change. Didn't want to stall on a major road, so that's the fastest I got.

Thanks for all the ideas. I guess if it's going to go, I'll just let it go. I'll have to keep it close to town until the tranny sh*ts itself. If I'd known this was going to happen a few months ago I would have had the tranny rebuilt with the clutch, probably would have saved some dough. Yes, it was completely rebuilt. So much for new headers. Damnitalltohell. Any suggestions for upgrades from stock tranny parts? Hardened gears, etc?

I kinda got lucky. A guy from Nissan Wheelers of Colorado has a wrecked Pathy with an extra MAFS I can borrow to see if that is the problem before I buy a new one. I would love to find out the much cheaper connector is bad, but with my luck lately who knows.

Ok ran the diagnostic: Mode I: Green LED on / No blinking. I need a new oxygen sensor. Maybe not the problem here but I'll get a new one. Mode II: Green/Red LED blink simultaneously. OK. Mode III: Green/Red LED: 5 blinks each. OK. Mode IV: OK Mode V: Green LED blinks irradically and fluctuates with RPMs. Faster blinks at mid-RPM. Apparently I manhandled the MAF and now need a new one. $165 is the cheapest around and I can't get it until tomorrow. Maybe I'll get lucky with a scrapper. Thanks for the help. EDIT: The connector seems to be in good shape, and I just cleaned the MAf not too long ago.

Thanks for the ideas fellas. I'm stumped. Since everyone seems to have had no problems lke this, I really think I've loosened something. Is it possible for the MAFS to be damaged beyond the 2 little wires that I might not see? The connection and sensor side look fine. Starting to get frustrating. Even if I had a stock box to put back on, I don't think that would help. My adapter is ghetto, but it doesn't seem to be leaking.

Thanks but I already checked the MAF, and everything looks fine. I also had the battery disconnected for quite a while. Is there a possible loose wire or vacuum that I'm overlooking?

Thanks for the link. I could not find that last night. I tried to disconnect the battery and it doesn't help. Is this supposed to reset the ECU? What have other people done to fix this problem? I've already trashed my stock airbox and my truck is stranded at a friend's place. I'm going to see what diagnostic code I get. How do I get the computer to adjust to getting more air?

Nice green Pathy!

Welcome Fernie!

Ha Ha Ha. I just posted a question in the Garage section pertaining to the one I just put on.

I just hooked up a cone filter and I need to reset the ecu so I can go home. My truck will barely run. I can't find a link for it anywhere!