Earth1

I just installed my new centerlink and idler arm brace, and new tie rods. (pics coming soon) That new centerlink is awesome, I had no idea how wild my steering was. I still have some wobble issues, but that will have to wait for the new UCA's. While I was checking all the bolts I discovered the front UCA spindle bolt that goes into the frame is either broken or stripped. I assume it's stripped because it hasn't fallen out. I'm going to try to get an easy-out to pick it out with, but does anyone have any other ideas? I haven't actually taken the UCA off yet, cause I'm gonna get new ones soon. Once I get the bolt out I have a feeling the hole will be stripped. Is it possible to re-thread the frame hole? I was also considering drilling through the frame (backside of the box), and using a long bolt and nut from the back, but I wasn't sure if that extra hole would weaken the frame or not. Any thoughts? E1

I think I'm ruining my Up-ball joints since I've cranked my tbars and the front is pretty much on the bumpstops. When I have to replace those balljoints, I'm going to upgrade the UCAs while I'm there. But, I'm not exactly sure how they correct any angles to accomodate a lift. Maybe they set the BJ's out farther? My question is, are the Calmini UCAs designed to give some more space between the bumpstops? If not, is there any other solution to get some of my suspension travel back, without lowering? Also, how much front-end lift is too much for the CV axles? I've cranked about 1.5-2", Am I at risk of binding them with too much angle? I'm quickly starting to see the shortcommings of IFS. E1

I can't remove the pitman arm. I wanted to take it to somewhere with a drill press along with my idler arm to have the holes drilled out larger. The design of this particular centerlink uses 5/8 bolts, and the holes have to be bigger. I've tried pickle forks and a 2lb framing hammer, and it hasn't budged. I picked up a seperator tool, and I can't get it to fit between the top of the arm and bracket/assembly. I'm not too crazy about drilling through that thing while it's mounted with a hand drill. I'm not sure how straight it would be, and I don't particularly want to have a grip on the drill when it starts to bite. Does anyone who has installed this centerlink have any advice? Maybe I'm just worrying too much, and should just put the drill up there and hang on tight?

Yeah, a BJ is a BJ, why pay more if you don't have to. Then again, when you can find a BJ, you might just want to pay for it if it's convinient...

My front driver's side wheel had some nasty play in it. So I took my hub apart, and discovered the bearing was loose, and I found some shavings in the area. I noticed once I had everything off that the driveshaft seems loose, like when I wiggle it, the CV boot moves too. Is this just normal because there's nothing holding it tight, or should I look for a secondary problem with the CV? This is my first time working on this stuff, so sorry if this description is confusing.

Right on. That's kinda what I was thinking. I found some at a local auto parts store for $15 & $18, and they have a liffetime warranty. I'll just grab some of those.

Are there any replacement tie rods that are better than the original stock parts? Anything particular to look for? I've seen some on ebay, but I don't really know what to look for. I want some beefier stuff to accompany my new centerlink.

I just did mine last weekend. Everything went pretty much as expected. I did bust one of the body mount nuts loose from it's weld up inside. I guess I'll have to try to reach it by drilling an access hole through the floor in the cab. Total process took 2 days. I had help the first day. Couldn't find a longer high pressure hose for the power steering, so I just moved the whole thing down. Believe me guys, If I can do this, anybody can. I haven't had a chance to take pics yet, but I'll post them in a few days.

I have a center console that has 2 cupholders under the lid. It sits the same height as the door armrest. Really comfy. It screws right over the lower console. Don't know how common it is, but they are out there. Or, were you wanting to go higher than that?

The front hood stop thing didn't work either, but thanks anyway. That's a good idea Mr. P. Is it a huge PITA to remove the dash?

Hey dude, I just did mine too. That front "collar" that you circled that's connected with 3 bolts is what I removed. BE SURE to carefully mark the collar and the anchor point. You can also mark the back of the tbar and the crossmember for a second reference. My marks were half-a$$, in some gunk, and I had a heck of a time figuring out my original location. It would have also helped me to make the scratch mark on the tbar itself fairly long. When I pulled the collar back to turn it, it covered my reference point on the tbar. I removed the nuts on top of the adjuster bolt at the rear of the tbars, removed the collar at the front, and turned the outside of the collar 3 splines toward the ground. Put the collar back on before the adjuster nuts, I learned that the hard way. You might need to have a second person push the wheel down to get the first nut started on the adjuster bolt. That was enough to put my tbar at the middle of it's adjustment range and to get the front the same height as the back. My adjuster bolt has about 2 inches on top. I think you can also get the bar loose by removing the bolts at the back of the tbar on the crossmember (at the front of the photo), but I wasn't sure about that. Please correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but everything seems fine on my rig. Hope that helps.

Welcome. Us Colorado guys should get a Pathfinder run together. Earth1

Anybody? I'm doing the coils/tbars tomorrow, and the BL the next day (or 2). I would love to get some feedback before I start. I'll try to document this as well as possible, for the mechanicaly disabled. Maybe a little "Pathfinder Lifting For Dummies" write up in the future.

I'll be installing a 3" BL, and doing the JGC coil swap/Tbar lift as soon as I get the missing parts from my kit. I'm not going to relocate anything, just want to lengthen hoses, etc. I'd like to get everything I need together, since I only have the workspace for the weekend. Just wanted to know if there is anything I'll need that doesn't come with the kit besides: -longer radiator hose: Any longer hose, same diameter? -fuel filter line about 2'x5/16": Rubber fuel line? -power steering line, 7/16" or 9/16": Either size? How long? -fuel vapor vacuum hose: What size/length? Rubber? -power steering fluid\coolant BTW, I have a 92 XE 4X 5speed. Please bare with me, this is quite a project for someone like me with limited experience. Thanks. Earth1

A few guys around here have had luck with a pre-96 Nissan Altima adapters. If you use this, you will need to make a couple of the holes bigger, should be really easy though. You can find a filter adapter combo on ebay. I plan on doin this real soon with my lift. If you get to it before me, I'd like to hear the outcome. Have you checked Mr. Jim's link to the adapter solution? Seems to be working for a few peeps as well. http://www.jimbennett.net/k__n_installation.htm I think you will notice some more power with the intake upgrade only, but more vacuum (larger exaust) will complete the whole air moving process. Maybe a bit simplified, but you probably know what I mean. Earth1

Not to be too negative, but I had an 83 Toyota pickup 4x that got stolen. I thought it would show up too, and eventually it did. TRASHED. Completely totalled. I loved that little truck, built like a tank. I took that thing to some pretty brutal trails with now more than a 2" lift, and some 33's. Forget about the "new" American truck. Hell, you could buy another Pathy, off-road mod the crap out of it, SAS and everything for less than you'll probably pay for a "newer" truck to begin with. Besides, you probably already know alot about the Pathy, why start over? BTW, If you love your ride, get an alarm, and a baseball bat. At least you can come out swingin when someone's snooping! Earth1

Hey, I tried that one too a while back. Not only did the noise not go away, but I shoved the shimmy in there so hard that I extended the crack in my windshield by about 6". Looks like I'll be taking the dash out soon. I guess that just gives me a good excuse to hit the boneyard and try to find a dashboard that isn't cracked like mine.

I had my friend who does auto glass take a look at it. I thought maybe the windshield was loose too. He said your glass should never come loose (unless the last installer really screwed up). Makes sense, if you've ever seen them replace a windshield, they really have to pry the seam/glass to get it out. That black poly-goop they use to install the glass is pretty tough stuff. Is the pillar cover that you mentioned the vertical plastic trim piece along the side of the windshield? If so, I took it off and drove around, and it wasn't the cause of the noise.

Try using the search feature with words like "body lift", "suspension lift", "torsion bar", "springs". Look in the garage, at the top under "important topics", this whole place is full of info. I'm getting ready to lift mine, and have found tons of info, just have to read around a little. One of the guys here has a very comprehensive site for the pathy enthusiast: wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb/index.php Also try the forums at 4x4parts.com, same deal there. Good luck. Earth1

I have a really irritating sqeak coming from the passenger side dash at the corner near the windshield. It seems to be getting louder, and more frequent. I've tried pulling the glove box out and tightening anything visible. I've tried WD40. Something is definately loose, it creaks all the time when I'm driving now. It sounds like plastic rubbing something, and its really driving me nuts. Any ideas before I pull the whole dash out? Earth1

I've been lurking around this site for a while now. Thought it was time to finally join in. I've had my 92 XE for about 6 months and I love it. I live in Colorado, and go to the mountains almost weekly. Even though she's bone stock, I've already taken her to some great places. I'll be getting a 3"BL and 32's real soon. Can't wait to get into those real remote spots. p.s. havin some issue uploading a photo on my profile. it's a jpeg 182k (4X3) anyone know why? Thanks