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I have no experience to add here, but some old posts from Mr. 510 suggest that they all interchange, with the possible exception of the WD21 starter not liking the VG33ER flexplate for some reason.

Are you looking for an upgrade to the adequate-but-not-great stock brakes, or has something happened that's got your brakes worse than they used to be? I had a knockdown dragout fight with the brakes on mine a while back. IIRC the master was leaking, so I replaced that and the rear flex hose between the frame and the axle, and the rear brakes just kinda quit working. I did a bunch of screwing around. Two-man bled, gravity bled, reverse bled, deleted the abs, put a 2WD Hardbody master in it (same piston size but no internal prop) with a Wilwood external prop because I didn't think the prop in the aftermarket Pathy masters was bleeding right, even replaced the booster. None of it helped. It bled normally, nothing was blocked, and the bleeders were at the top like they're meant to be. With the rear axle on jackstands, in drive, at idle, both feet on the brakes, the rears just spun. I was out of good ideas, so I bought a brake pressure gauge, blew out all the plumbing for the rears with compressed air, and tested pressure at each point down the line, bleeding at the gauge as I went. Right at the master, joiner in the driver's wheel well, where the ABS used to be, splitter at the rear axle. Might've put it at the caliper hoses too, don't remember if I had the fittings for that. The gauge showed full pressure every time (~1500 psi IIRC). With no obvious fault to chase, I hooked the calipers back up, bled them yet again, and somehow the rear brakes started working. I don't know why. All I can think is there was a gob of goo holding an air bubble in a union or something, which all of my prior bleeding had somehow failed to budge. I still hate everything about brake fluid. Hopefully yours is easier to deal with than mine was!

Yours lived longer than mine did! I have no idea what that metal thing is for. It looks like some engineering went into it, so clearly they expected it to do something. All I know is, I did not include it or replicate it when I fabricobbled a metal clamshell for mine, and my tilt works normally, so it must be something else. The weight may not be helping the clamshell, especially cantilevered out like it is, but I suspect it's got more to do with people whacking their knee on the bulge that the weight sits in. Well, that and the poor design of the screw posts.

Apparently they do interchange. I haven't done it but the wd22 and R50 using the VG have a smaller starter that is easier to replace.

The knock sensor in my '93 is wired the same as yours. Two terminals, only one pinned in the plug. The circuit diagram on EF&EC-99 agrees. The sensor must ground to the block. When I checked mine, chasing a knock sensor code, I did the same test on EF&EC-137, and like you I found no continuity. Annoyingly there isn't a spec for the sensor itself, but I noted that my old (bad) sensor read about 2 megohms across the terminals, and the new one read 558k ohms. The '97 manual specs 500-620k ohms, so the replacement was within that spec, for whatever that may be worth. If the knock sensor hears something that the computer doesn't like, the computer pulls timing (EF&EC-19). If the sensor circuit reads out of range, it'll set a code. EF&EC-23 says that if the code is set, it'll pull timing "according to operating conditions," which it does not elaborate on, so, . Mine seemed to get a little power back after I replaced the sensor, but that's just the butt dyno talking. I do not see anything in the manual suggesting that a knock condition (or a bad knock sensor) would change the fuel mixture. This means your rich condition is likely unrelated. I would suspect injectors (would be weird for all six to be bad, unless someone's previously swapped them for the cheap crappy ones that a few people on here have had trouble with), oxygen sensor (gets stuck reading "lean"), or coolant temp sensor. A bad temp sensor or corroded connector can tell the computer that the engine is much colder than it is, so it assumes higher air density than exists, and dumps too much fuel. I had a stumble just off idle and an intermittent failure to idle when warm on mine, which turned out to be the plug for the MAF. The sensor itself was OK, but the pins on the plug side were hogged out. Messing with the plug would clear it up for a while. I finally got sick of it and spliced in a new plug, and it hasn't done it since. I didn't notice any signs of a rich condition, though, and it ran fine so long as I didn't expect it to idle. Funny, I recently started my first rodeo with an EJ25. Timing belt/water pump/etc. Those valve covers look like fun.

Timing belt is done. The last time I changed it was 2012. I was surprised how good the belt looked. curious if anyone else bought the kit from Napa and had an issue with the water pump. The pump will mount, but the snout is too long. The water pump by itself was the same way. I had to order one from Oreilly’s. The water pump I did back in 2012 was purchased from Nissan. It was the same manufacturer as the one from Oreilly’s and Napa.

I would start with the troubleshooting for code 32, EF&EC-93. (Download the service manual from Nicoclub if you haven't yet!) Rule out the vacuum lines (just replace them if they're original!), the EGRC solenoid, the EGR valve, whatever else the manual says to check. IIRC my '95 had a short hose under the EGR-BPT (the UFO-looking diaphragm deal beside/above the EGR valve) that had burned through on the back side, so I'd check for that too. There's also a test for the temp sensor. EF&EC-135 says to test the sensor at 100*C/212*F. It should read 85.3k ohms (plus or minus 8.53 ohms) at that temperature. If it was open or shorted, it would be throwing code 35, but it is possible it's just drifted far enough off spec that it's lying to the computer. The temperature it reads corresponds to how much exhaust is flowing through the EGR valve (more exhaust = more heat), so if it's reading low, that could make the computer think the flow is lower than it's supposed to be, causing your code 32. The temp sensor lives in the dirtiest part of the engine. Unless it's crusted up on the tip of the sensor like the corn on a corn dog, I wouldn't expect the soot to insulate it enough to matter. Might be worth cleaning it if you go through the rest of the troubleshooting without success, or if you have it out anyway, but I'd be surprised if that was the problem. Carbon buildup in the valve and/or manifold could also be decreasing flow. I've heard of the EGR on the old TBI engines blocking itself up completely. I haven't heard of the multiport (what we've got) doing that, but the EGR port in the manifold on my '93 looked like those "this is what cholesterol does to your arteries" posters at the doctor's office the first time I had it apart. (It wasn't coding, but it's the earlier/federal-smog system, with no temperature sensor, so the computer would've had no idea.) The unplugged sensor makes me suspicious that the PO might've been tinkering. I've read that you can get away blocking off the EGR on the federal-emissions trucks, because they don't have the temp sensor. Perhaps the PO blocked the EGR (either to bandaid a bad EGR valve, or because racecar yo), the temp sensor ratted him out, he unplugged the temp sensor, that didn't magically fix it, and then he sold it to you rather than fix it properly. Good luck!