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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/06/2025 in Posts

  1. I've heard of people jacking up one side/parking on a slope so the fill hole is higher. Might be worth a shot.
    3 points
  2. I run ATF Dex III in mine at the recommendation of the bloke who rebuilt my trans. Has never shifted so nicely.
    2 points
  3. Hey guys, I'm new to the site. would anyone know the best spark plug to get for the my 2001? They all are really expensive but I found some Bosch plat 2.99 ea and my next choice is the NGK V power copper 4.49 ea. what do you think?
    1 point
  4. Good to see I'm not the only one exploring random rabbit holes. Your conclusion sounds reasonable to me. And yeah, I don't see why ATF wouldn't work. That's what the Tremec T-5 in my dad's hot rod takes.
    1 point
  5. For the sake of gathering info on this topic, here's a link to some of the most thorough info from the BITOG forum with all the tested and dedicated manual transmission fluids grouped by kinematic viscosity at 100°C or the rough average operating temperature. In case you want to follow me down the rabbit hole. As I understand it,75w-90 GL-4 fluid was originally recommended for these manual trannys but that was later revised to 75w-85. However all these dedicated MTF/MTL options didn't exist back then, in 1993 in my case. So, here's what I know at this point, I think: - 75w-90 is ~14.5cSt, original spec - 75w-85 is ~12cSt, revised spec - There has been a trend towards lower KV fluids over the last 20 years, improve, shifting, better flow in cold temps. - The advances in additive packages makes lower KV fluids possible without sacrificing high temp cushion and lubricity - API GL-4 is a necessity, not GL-5 or 4+ or whatever else, especially in an older trans. So it seems to me, going by the info I've gathered, something in the 10cSt is probably where I want to be, slightly lighter weight than the 14.5cSt 75w-90 originally recommended and close to the 75w-85 revision. If I can find it, which is proving a little difficult. ATF is in the 6-7cSt range and seems too thin in my case but I can understand it may be great in a freshly rebuilt MT. If that's what a builder recommended then definitely go with it. Valvoline Synchromesh is the ONLY GL-4 MTF option I've found in my town and it's currently $9/qt at O'Reilly's. I cannot get my hands on a standard 75w-90 GL-4 fluid locally. At ~9.2-9.4 cSt the Valvoline Synchromesh is a touch lighter than I'd like but it's available locally and relatively well priced. So I'll give it a go and report our experience. The good thing is this old Pathfinder isn't yet a *needed daily driver so it could sit for a bit if it doesn't work well and I still need to special order Redline MT-90 at $20/qt.
    1 point
  6. The bent needle is more than likely binding against the speedo face. Very, very common. You can retrofit different needles to speedo and tacho.
    1 point
  7. Thank you so much. I do appreciate that and now I can rest easy.
    1 point
  8. Yep, early (pre 4/'96) fill level was too low, which starves the countershaft bearings. There's a TSB for replacing the whole trans case with one that's got the fill hole about an inch higher up, but in the real world, you can just dump another 1.5L into it by removing the shifter. The original spec was 3.6L. New spec is 5.1L. Info/instructions here. Note the oil spec! Do not use a GL-5 rated oil.
    1 point
  9. Factory plugs for your truck are NGK double platinum. Yes they cost $70~$80 for a set but they last 100k miles. You can buy a set of NGK V-power for ~$30 but they only last 30k miles... guess what, $30 @ 30k X 3 plug changes = $90 @ 90k miles. so in the long run you save some time and $$ if you just use the factory double platinum plugs. Another thing to consider, The double platinum offers greater ignitablity and reliable spark because of is small platinum electrode and small platinum patch under the ground strap. So even near the end of your plugs life it still delivers a strong spark. Yes people will always argue "copper plugs provide greater spark because copper has the lowest electrical resistance" I've seen it on a million forums BUT what the fail to realize is that "copper" plugs have steel electrodes, only the core is copper. And for that matter, Platinum pugs (platinum electrodes) also have copper cores. And platinum is a better conductor than steel. So the time old argument of "copper" vs Platinum or "copper vs Iridium is actually an argument of Steel vs Platinum or Steel vs Iridium.
    1 point
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