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And of course had to take some post-200k pictures. Hitting 200,000 miles in hyalite canyon is definitely something I’m never going to forget. Such an awesome spot for it to happen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The anti-sieze does work, but doesn't work well as a lubrication. The silicone works well as a lube, but doesn't handle the pressures as well as the moly. I do very light applications of grease since with the brakes, less is more. With the slip on rotors and drums, I do use a light coating of anti-sieze on the hub between the rotor/drum and hub flange. It helps prevent rust and squeels, and makes it easier to separate in the future for servicing. On this subject, I also don't put anti-sieze on the lugs, or any lube really. I have had more problems lugs that had it applied than with the ones that are simply kept clean and properly torqued. If I pull a lug that is a little stiff, I will take an extra couple of minutes and dress the threads with thread chasers. Nissan's use a fine thread that is easier to damage and the anti-sieze will cause galling due to clogging the threads and causing over torque when tightening the lugs.

Book calls for about 5 1/2 hours for timing belt on the VG in a truck. I do it in about 3, due to experience and having the tools. Easy way to break the crankshaft pulley bolt loose, is to use a 1/2" breaker bar on the bolt and wedged onto the floor or the frame. Unplug the distributor or pull the EFI fuse and bump the starter. You will need a pulled to get the harmonic balancer off. It will need to be a 2 bolt style with a pair of very long M6 x 1.0 bolts, about 80mm long. A steering wheel puller works well. Removing the radiator and putting a piece of cardboard in its place to protect the AC condenser gives you more room to do the work. While in there, I recommend getting a timing belt kit, water pump, thermostat, front main oil seal, both cam seals, and a new woodruff key for the crankshaft sprocket. Plus replacing the coolant hoses. The parts really don't cost much, most of the cost in the timing belt replacement is time. If you don't replace those parts while in there, you will be back in a few months when what you don't replace fails.

The trouble with most brush guards is that they're designed to stop low-velocity vegetation, not high-velocity venison. They have a reputation for collapsing in a collision and causing damage to more of the front end than would've been hit by the deer alone. I'd prefer a proper bumper, but of course anything will crumple if hit hard enough. My strategy in rural Washington (also lousy with hoof rats) is just to drive slower late evening through early morning when they tend to be on the road. The only one I've hit, I saw long beforehand, and thought, nah, he'll stay where he is. Dumb SOB dove in front of me at the last minute like he wanted the insurance money. I'd slowed down to around 40 by that point, though, so the damage to the truck was minor.

Been awhile since I've been on here. Truck is still alive and did some more maintenance like new wheel bearings, U joints for the front driveshaft and brake caliper. Also I was able to pick up some HID retrofits off a guy who was parting out his R50 with a ton of other goodies. After installing the retrofits the clear corners seemed off to me so I went ahead and used a heat gun to melt the glue to take them apart and painted the inside gloss black. Imo it looks a lot better Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk