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We’ve gotten just a tad bit of snow over the last couple days. This was before I left for Washington on Thursday Anddddd this is what I came back to Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aimed for a trail up near 3000 ft, got stuck at around 500 ft this weekend. Ultimately the 4Runner turned us around, but I wasn't going to get much further. The cables I had helped a TON though. The snow was wet and about 18+ inches deep, that combined with the incline was just too much for me. At least with minimal recovery gear! Next weekend is timing belt, cam/crankshaft seals (maybe), water pump, and valve cover gasket day. Wish me luck.

A guy on my route HAD a 2000 with the carrier, I told him several times over the last few years, to let me know if he's ever looking to get rid of it. A few weeks ago I realized I hadn't seen it in a while. The next time I saw him, I asked about it. He bought a new expedition and took $500 for trade-in!! The real KITA when I inquired with the dealership he dealt with, THEY SCRAPPED IT because it had "some rust"!!

Or maybe try the oem supercharger that was an option in the VG33 in the xterra & frontier. That'd probably take a ton of guesswork, custom fabbing & tuning out of the equation.

replaced both front o2 sensors(passenger side was a huge pain in the ass) the etc sensor, and did the loctite on the powervalves. i posted a thread with pics in the r50 forum

With so much rain here in the south(east TN) this past month I haven't had a chance to wash the old gal. Being OCD like I am, has been driving me crazy. The last 3 days with clear skies and highs in the 60's that all came to an end. This is February isn't it? Lol clean machine. #r50obsessed Sent from my SM-S737TL using Tapatalk

Incredibly! Lol. I wanted it strictly for parts and told the guy at the dealership I'd have given him the $500 back in a heartbeat, he said "leave me your number, I'll call you if I get another", I told him "you won't", and left. Lol

A couple guys have turbo'd WD21s, and IIRC someone turbo'd a VQ35 R50, but I'm not sure I've seen someone do a VG33 R50 yet. I don't think there's much (if any) aftermarket support for the ECU, so you'll probably need a standalone to tune it properly. Some Z-car guys swap in VG33s, so it might be worth tracking down one of their build threads to see what they use. Unless something off (or for) a Z-car happens to fit in the R50 engine bay, you'd probably have to make manifolds and piping yourself or have it done. Here's a WD21 turbo build thread. Short of that, you might try swapping out the cams. I've heard the stock VG33 cams are pretty wimpy. Guys swapping VG33s into WD21s tend to reuse the cams from the stock VG30 they're replacing. Aftermarket cams are also available.

Moved to R50 section for more attention.

This stuff, I happened to have a bottle in the garage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Took it for snow duty... aka, car sucks in snow so the Parthy gets the honors. Not that we got enough snow to worry about, though you'd have thought it was two feet or more by the way most other drivers acted.

and I finished the whole thing off with a lovely whiskey sour. I’ll put everything back together tomorrow

Went running around some trails in the south half of the Valley. My cousin got his dad’s jeep stuck until we had the bright idea to use its front and rear differential locks. Good time, lots of mud. My new tires handled really well except they got clogged with mud here and there.

Hasn't been touched since unfortunately. Between doing my thesis, BioChemistry, Physics and my Biology classes, I have no time to spare. Hopefully after graduation this May i'll have a decent break to finish the rear. On the bright side, I just bought a new welder to help with this project, so that ought to make it go by a little faster than the front end.

Finally got the lift installed. I will be making a thread soon but I need to get it cleaned up for some proper pictures.

Sorry guys, been busy. I took the ECM out and there it was, a fried capacitor. Yes the ECM has been repaired before because the company had placed their warranty sticker over the seam of the ECM. So i have ordered a used one that comes with the key and module. Also ordered a new IAC valve

Power steering belt decided it didnt like pushing the snow, jumped off and ripped itself. Swapped over 33s since the 31s were showing the wire belt and swapped a new p/s belt in autozone parking lot that was smaller and fits way nicer. Gotta love the sound super swampers make driving around as a daily. Waiting on the new set of 31s yo put back on the truck and redo the allignment.

No Pathfinder work this weekend, just a snowmageddon report. It's been coming down heavily all weekend, but that's made for some great explorin'! My Alaskan instincts kicked in and I spent the weekend driving around the Kitsap and eastern Olympic Peninsulas, just lookin' to get lost Put down about 300 miles in two days o_O Snow-driving video. More than a couple of these sightings... Silly dog tax-

anyone done this and taken pictures? I'm a visual learner and reading doesn't do much for me.

Thank you for this info. I have noticed that it doesnt start as easily, I figured it was due to that wire, I havent hooked it up yet though. I will do that tomorrow.

For historical purposes I'm going to finish off this story. Initial problem was an oil leak at the bottom of the transmission bell housing. There was oil elsewhere on the engine but after 200k miles that didn't surprise me. Talked it over with some friends and came to the conclusion it was the rear main oil seal. To replace the RMOS I had to drop the transmission. I followed the Haynes manual and used the service manual to get an idea where some of the parts were because some of them I had to go in blind. I was going to try and list the steps but there were too many. Some notes I can offer from this operation are as follows: 1.) I needed two universal joints on a socket to get to the crankshaft sensor on top of the bell housing. It's a blind bolt so it's hard to get to but was easy to put back in. 2.) I had to order the copper crush washers for the transmission line from Nissan, it didn't seem like anyone else had them. 3.) If you are removing the transmission entirely from under the truck take into account the height of the jack when you decide the height you will jack up the truck. Luckily I didn't need to take it out from under the car but the 10 inches I had the truck jacked up was not enough if I wanted to move the transmission from under the truck when using this adapter transmission adapter. 4.) The transmission fill tube is about a half inch too long to remove from the truck when the transmission is on the truck. You have to remove the transmission to remove the transmission fill tube. Conversely when putting the transmission back on make sure to insert the fill tube as you're raising the jack into position. 5.) Two people would be really helpful when lining up the transmission for re-installation. 6.) Do not use water based paint when marking the relative positions of the drive shaft and the drive plate to torque converter. I did and after a few weeks of condensation it was almost entirely gone. 7.) To remove the top bolts on the transmission you have to lower it, use a deep socket on an extension and a universal joint to reach the bolt. 8.) The passenger side upper bell housing bolt has an air line right in front of it. You can get around it, don't work about breaking anything because the bracket that holds the air line in place is held in place by the same bolt you're removing. The whole thing will just fall out once you remove the bolt. The air line is just coming from the back of the transmission and ends about where that bolt is. The end of it just hangs in space. 9.) For putting the bolts back in on top of the bell housing I couldn't get my hand to hold on to the bolt at the same time I was trying to get the socket in place, there was not enough room. I put gasket sealant in the socket, put the bolt in the socket and then waited about 30 minutes to let it set. I was then able to just use the socket with the bolt in it to get it into place and screw it in halfway. the gasket material easily let go when I pulled the socket back out. 10.) The Haynes manual recommended 9 quarts of transmission fluid, the service manual says 7.5, the service manual is right. I took the car to the shop after the job was complete to have them look at that rattling I described in a previous post, it turned out it wasn't the transmission at all but the heat cover over the catalytic converter. Not the first time I have been fooled by that tin. And after all of that, the oil leak wasn't from the rear main seal. The oil leak was from the valve cover gaskets leaking down the back of the engine making it look like it was coming from the transmission bell housing. Replacing the valve cover gaskets was a much easier job. Neither the Haynes manual nor the service manual do a good job describing how to remove the upper air intake manifold though.