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I hope everyone had a good holiday. It feels like I did nothing but work on the Pathfinder. I finally got fed up with the oil leak and did the oilpan gasket/re-did the clutch. What a pain in the ass that was. That will teach me not to re-seal an engine before I install it. Here is a list of what I accomplished: -Oil pan gasket - rear seal was NOT leaking, the lip below the housing was leaking. -New clutch, oil on the clutch was NOT the problem, the pilot bushing was defective. -Valve cover gaskets -New radiator <- insurance -Rear storage system and fridge slide-out completed -Fixed PO570, don't get a zip tie stuck between the upper and lower plenum. -Dropped front diff 3/4" which allows me to leave the hubs locked on the highway with little to no vibration. The rear seal can only be replaced by removing the oilpan. I tried to get away with jamming that gasket between the oil pan and rear seal housing which was absolutely stupid. This job would have gone much easier with the engine out of the vehicle. Although I love the VQ35DE, damn if it isn't a pain to work on. The alternator bolt's nut requires an entire story. The slides are rated for 150lbs each and slide out a full 36". At first I debated on getting the ARB slide because I love the quality of their products and it is ready to go, but this turned out being about 1/2 the cost and a bit more skookum. Damn the VQ's PCV hose. I pulled the upper intake to get a good hose on the PCV and afterwards was getting a PO570 "Idle speed higher than expected". I knew there was a vacuum leak but couldn't find it. So I figured it was a good time to properly install my PCV catch can, valve cover gaskets and a new PCV valve. Upon disassembly I found this and was relieved. Now I need your help. I am having some strange problems and I think they are all related to the Smart Entrance Control Unit, but am not sure. Please read the list of problems and what I have done. Problems: -Sunroof opens 2" at a time then stops, If I keep hitting the open button it will open all the way, but only goes about 2" before stopping again. - Interior light does not shut off when left in "door" position -When locking the vehicle sometimes the parking lights flash, sometimes they don't -When headlights are on auto mode they never shut off after the doors are closed and vehicle locked. -Alarm randomly goes off at night <- this sucks for my neighbor and need to fix this. What I have done: - checked smart entrance control 7.5amp power fuses, both good -checked that the doors are closed and door open lamp is off...maybe I have a bad door switch??? The only thing I can find that relates to all of these problems is the Smart Entrance Control Unit?? Anyone have any experience with this?

The computer doesn't really need an idle sensor--it's watching engine speed anyway. There is a pressure switch on the power steering and some kind of tie-in from the aircon that tell the computer to raise the idle when those systems are under load, which might explain why Adam's aircon masked his idle issue. Idle control is done by two valves. The Auxiliary Air Control valve (which the computer controls) is located under the back of the upper intake manifold. The Idle Air Control Valve, which lets air bypass the AAC for a higher idle when the engine is cold, sticks up behind the EGR and works kind of like an electric choke (moves a valve as it heats up, only instead of opening a choke, it closes an air passage). EF&EC-14 of the '95 manual has a picture and description of each. (It also shows the AAC and idle adjustment screw together and calls the pair something else, just to be confusing.) The IACV is only open when cold, which is when your truck runs its worst, right? The idle control components do one thing, and that's feed air into the manifold, bypassing the throttle body. That air is supposed to come from the intake tube between the MAF and the throttle body, meaning it's gone through the MAF already, so the computer knows it's there (and knows to add fuel accordingly). If the idle control valves are drawing air that hasn't gone through the MAF--air getting into that feed pipe through a crack or a hole where a mouse chewed on it, maybe--the computer isn't seeing that air, and doesn't know to add fuel, so the engine will run lean. It would run leanest when the IACV is open (when it's cold). Once the IACV closes, the engine would idle better, but still a little lean from the lower volume of air going through the AAC valve (low idle). When your foot's on the gas, the AAC should be closed, and the engine should run closer to normal (though perhaps not perfect given that the leak that was supplying unmetered air to the idle controls might also send some the other way to the throttle body). So, yeah, I'd have a look at that air supply pipe. As for the EGR, I haven't heard of any real benefit to deleting it unless the valve is buggered. Mine works, so I leave it alone, though I did scrape some carbon buildup out of it when I had the intake apart and test it just to see if it was working right.