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Just a random pic to show off the insane JDM spoiler/wing. Here's one of the situations I got snatched from... Note the rear tyre is off the ground! Diffed out hard... And a pic of the XROX bar

I installed some LED bulbs in my map light and front/rear dome light fixtures. I also put wedge style LEDs in my gauge cluster. This is from last night. The camera on my phone was picking up a lot more light than what was visible to my eyes. This is closer to what it really looks like. I couldn’t get an accurate picture of what the fixture itself looks like to the eyes. The camera must pick up a good amount more than the eye. Today my other LEDs came in so I put one 5000k bulb in the passenger map light fixture and left the red on the driver. That way, I have light when I need it but I also have the option to keep my night eyes. For the dome lights I went with 3500k bulbs. I like the warm incandescent filament color temperature but the added brightness is hopefully going to be an upgrade. I don’t know yet because the sun is still up. I am most excited about the gauge cluster. The incandescent bulbs just aren’t bright enough for this new gauge cluster I got from the junkyard. The background color is a metallic grey with micro flakes and the lettering is white so the contrast is pretty poor when driving in the evening or morning and the super dim bulbs literally do nothing until it’s almost completely dark out. Here is the difference as of now. I’ll never lose another burger again! We’ll see what it looks like tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing new to tell you, guys. It's been raining here and I've been busy and I've only just now arranged for a tow. I'm looking up torque converters and flex plates now, and I'm beginning to think that I may need a torque converter made for the 3.3... I really appreciate the input, you're basically giving me a list of what I need to look for that I couldn't find in my FSM. Now if only it would stop raining. I'll let you know when I find out if it's a loose bolt, bent flex plate, mangled torque converter, or something even worse, then hopefully we can figure out why it happened so that hopefully others can avoid it. I'm still hoping for a quick fix, but in the interest of gathering information, is it better to choose a torque converter based on the engine, or the transmission? Or should I just figure out a year model which had the vg33e and the RE4R01A? Will the torque converter out of an Xterra that had a 5-speed auto work with my 4-speed? Is there anyone who makes heavy duty or racing quality torque converters or flywheels for these? I guess it might be a good time to put in a new(ish?) tranny, but I really don't want to. I'm hoping not to have to take the transmission out at all, and I'd almost rather not have to take the engine back out either, if it turns out to be a loose bolt or something, but I suppose I have to check the flywheel and torque converter now. Anyway, I'm getting ahead of myself. I still don't know if the engine will free up as soon as I pull the starter back out. I do hope that if I damaged the brand new starter it'll be covered by the limited warranty. I'm waiting for the tow truck now. I'll try to keep up with this thread as I get time to work on the truck. I can hardly wait to see what I did wrong that caused this, myself, and warn people about it. I'm almost tempted to try to get a recording of the sound it's making, but I really don't want to try to start it again until I check everything and the engine turns freely. Edit: I just realized that flywheels are fot manual transmissions and flexplates are for automatic transmissions and they're not synonymous. So...my mistake, I meant flexplate the whole time.

Will do. Hopefully will have it early Jan sometime. I like the XROX design because it will transfer the load from the recovery points basically straight into the fake chassis rails, rather than being attached to the subframe/lower rad support like the factory points which also sit a bit low for when you bury the nose in mud... Ask me how I know haha

It sounds like your OD solenoid to me. If it happens again, hit your OD off button a bunch and see if it has any effect. If you’re comfortable, you could do a flush yourself with the trans cooling lines. If you need to know how just say so and I’ll post up a step by step. Unless you’ve gone a very very long time with no trans oil change then fresh oil isn’t going to hurt anything. It’ll stop the excessive wear in its tracks though.. However, considering the solenoid may be sticking, you might be in a very badly spent trans oil situation. You need to drain some oil from your transmission pan, take some pictures, and post them up. Soak up the oil in a white paper towel and take some pics.

Great insight, but bummer on the damage! As soon as you had mentioned the distribution strap, that's exactly what came to my mind...the lower support buckling. You absolutely had the right idea to distribute the load, but the problem is that so many spots on unibodies are simply made from thinner steel that is layered or laminated and not fully boxed/welded, and it's function is to be rigid, but also to collapse upon impact. The few spots that must bear excessive loads constantly (like the subframe, strut towers, and spring perches) use thicker gauge stamped steel. Be sure to post up some pics of that XROX bar if you get it. I think they're great looking bumpers, wish we had them here.

Hey It relaxes me lol

Heck yeah! Who needs to run the vehicle in a closed garage when you can just remove the rear window and gas yourself out on your commute!

Well I'm glad you told me because I haven't gobbed the back of the housing [emoji23] will do that before the rain just dumps nonstop for 6 months lol Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk