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Встретил машину знакомого по drive2.ru

Well, it's as done as it's gonna get before my CANVAZ trip this weekend. I will eventually put some plate up top and some additional brackets under the quarter panel for support. I've been pretty pleased with the cuts. My AZ flag apparently had some hidden lines that got cut, but I went with it. Cheapo MicTuning lights off Amazon are wired to the reverse lights...and make the OE bulbs look like garbage. I also made a new missing link and mid skid... Super pleased with the results. It slides on/off just like the front skid, and now all the hardware is matched for a single socket. ... I know this thread started off for front bumper brackets, but I've come a lot farther than expected. I'm still planning to go through with the front brackets for those interested, but still need another week or so to finalize a few things and put some numbers to things. I'm absolutely exploring options to make skids and missing link available, too. Stay tuned!

Thanks for all the help guys! Will make sure to get these camber bolts and work on it with my mechanic.

ok.....Thanks you for the information! yes, please do - part # of ProComp

I know you DM'd me, but you have a couple different details in here so I'll address them too. Those camber bolts should handle the issue, not all shops are familiar with camber bolts so make sure they know what they are. Also, I've had issues with camber bolts breaking before, which I'm going to assume is due to alignment techs using an impact rather than tightening appropriately, may be worth requesting that they take the time to torque them appropriately. 31" tires will fit fine on stock offset wheels, however the issue is if you want to drop down to a 15" wheel you have to make sure it will fit over the front brakes; not all will. I'll follow up with the part # of ProComp wheels that I and several others have used with great success. Just keep in mind if you get wheels with a larger center bore than your hub you'll want to get hubcentric rings to eliminate any vibrations.

Hi All, I have a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE and I have 2" spacers and with the same issue. I've installed 4 camber bolts. I'm taking her in tomorrow to get aligned. Lets see what they say. Will that fix the issue? Also, I'm think installing 31X10.5, 15x8.......Any recommendations?

You need camber bolts to correct the suspension. They replace 1 or both of bolts that connect the knuckle to the struts. 2" or more of lift from spacers can potentially cause over extension of CV axles in off road situations so be careful.

I just want to say you are awesome and I'm still interested in at least the brackets as I initially stated. The actual bumpers are a surprise welcome though, for me it'll be all about the $$. I won't be able to make it to Quartzsite this winter anyway as I was hoping for health reasons so the cost of shipping would probably be significant for the entire bumper. Unbelievable progress though, I agree softening the corner on the rear would look pretty sweet but it sticking out to be able to stand on would also be nice. Keep it up man, this is still an awesome thread to watch.

Manual hubs from the D21s bolt up and are supposed to be pretty good. There are also aftermarket options as well, not sure what's available in your area though. I'm running Mile Markers on mine which have been great except that the chrome plating on the rings didn't last long. The trouble is that Nissan had two different spline counts for hubs, 27 or 28. Count the splines on your CV axles and find hubs to match.

Sign me up! Looks great! (Funny story, when I first moved to Arizona I wondered why so many people had Free Tibet flags)

So I bought this fridge on Amazon the other week for $390. It's the same item as the $700 Smittybilt Arctic Fridge, but surprisingly with much better reviews. I put it through some extended runs and a few food trips, and it's been really good so far. Gets down to temps quickly, seems well built, but we'll see how it's maiden real trip goes this weekend. I started making some modifications to the cargo rack to accommodate it... ...but I was sorely disappointed when I discovered that the liftgate won't clear the fridge. Contact point is the lift strut bracket. Sucks because I already had the rack out of the truck and presumed it would clear given that the top of the fridge didn't exceed the top of the rack. Perhaps it would fit if I didn't use the rail I had just made for it and slid it over the inch or so, or maybe if I remove the strut and bracket and just not use the glass, but it's pretty close to the glass and I don't feel like chancing it. Time was really short this weekend and couldn't troubleshoot further, so I abandoned this project and moved on. I'll still be able to take the fridge on my trip, but it'll have to sit on one of the seats folded down. I'm already considering a v2 of this project that would lower that shelf to the same as the lower shelf (might have to raise it a little to clear the passenger wheel well hump), which would allow it to clear. Since I still needed a constant 12V socket, I got this part of the electrical done:

2018 October - November-December. !

Finally finished welding up my low profile winch bumper last week! Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk