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Wow.. yeah. I put my spare TPS on and it drives completely normal now. The shifts are much smoother, which is fine, but the 2-3 flare is more pronounced. Before the shifts were smooth sometimes and then sharp other times but I thought it followed transmission oil pressure/temperatures. Now it shifts the same from the time I pull out of the driveway until I get to work. It was also requiring some serious throttle to kickdown into 2nd gear but now it feels just right. I know it finally threw a code at the end there but doesn’t the TPS throw codes pretty easily? I thought it was sorta common that they throw codes and not even be bad.. Also, after I put this TPS on it seems like my engine is quieter? Is that possible? Before it was, for lack of better words, more tonal? Now I can hardly hear the engine at all and the small exhaust leak I have is a lot more noticeable. Hopefully I can go a week or so here without going back and forth on this vehicle! Sheesh.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got through with the brakes the booster was bad. Works great now.

Even with a press, it’s a hassle because you need a very specific die size and the tube doesn’t have much meat to it either. Just getting the things in a vise can be a pain. I drill a bunch of holes in the rubber, enough to weaken the connection to the inner sleeve. Then wood dowel or other drift and sledge to pop the inner sleeve out. Then reciprocating saw to surgically cut a slit in outer sleeve. Finally, hammer and punch on the edge of the sleeve to push it through. It’s a crappy job no matter how you dice it, but after you do the first, the rest are cake.

All custom. Pepsi had a lot of things done. For the work required to make a long-travel IFS, it'd probably be more cost effective to just SAS it... But...here's how I'd do it: 1) Use a 1st Gen Frontier/X CV shaft...I think it's the same flange bolt pattern, same spline count, and about 1" longer. 2) Custom LCA. Rear bushing mount would be replaced by one that allows for a bolt-through bushing or other joint (not that pin/tail style ours has). Move the spindle out 1" or more (CV + flange spacer) 3) Custom shock and UCA hanger/bracket that bolts between strut tower and both subframe points. May require cutting into wheel well above unibody primary support tube (no clue what they call it) to recess the UCA mounts. 4) Stock or aftermarket UCAs from a Frontier/X or Tacoma, possibly even W/D21. Former trucks have a lot of options; latter trucks have the UCA crosspin that might simplify mounting UCAs. Otherwise, custom UCA 5) If using Nissan parts, I'd probably just bring the spindle over from the truck. Will still be able to use manual hubs. There are some similarities for steering parts. Otherwise, custom adapter for the strut knuckle to use a uniball or Johnny joint instead of a balljoint. Obviously, lots of variability depending on budget and course of action, though this is more or less converting the strut to double-wishbone suspension. It doesn't afford a whole lot of additional travel, but better than OE. Definitely not for any high-speed action if using many OE parts. Here's where I say something like, "Man, Nissan sure made the Pathfinder a bastard," knowing that all those 2nd Gen Frontier/X guys basically have a kit just by swapping over some parts from a Titan. We share nothing with the other Nissans...hence, all custom.

Well, the rain has started-that won’t stop until July. In some sunbreaks I still want to do a thorough clean & waxing of the roof before mounting the rack. I’m also working on about 1cm “towers” between the rails & the conduit clamp (to be fair, TownDawgR50 is really working on it for me). Pathy_02 put his on with conduit clamps to the rails about a year ago & it looks great. For my purposes I need just a little more clearance. I move slow so it may take a few weeks-months.

Appreciated! I think that's the catch about most off-road bumpers...you never really know how it's going to handle unless you accounted for a specific purpose (like big 'ol deer guards on semi trucks...a very singular purpose). Tube, plate, and formed steel construction have very different characteristics, too. Plate is surely the best impact wise because of its hard angles and fully-welded/bent seams, but as such will also weigh more. You can reduce weight with thinner steel, but then other reinforcements are needed. ARB uses 3mm steel (just under 1/8"), but still comes in close to 90-100 lbs for the R50 bumper, and it's still quite big. Dustin's bumper (the other current thread) turned out great; it's a beast of a bumper. I'd estimate the weight of my setup is probably half that, though. I would have liked to have gone plate, but when I started doing the front bumper, it boiled down to what was feasible in the garage; I didn't have a way to cut plate or make long cuts (to be honest, I really didn't even know how plasma cutters worked until this year!), nor a way to bend round tube. I had a chopsaw and protractor (and I hate dealing with angles). I think it's turned out well for what it is, and it's definitely been a learning experience.