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All custom. Pepsi had a lot of things done. For the work required to make a long-travel IFS, it'd probably be more cost effective to just SAS it... But...here's how I'd do it: 1) Use a 1st Gen Frontier/X CV shaft...I think it's the same flange bolt pattern, same spline count, and about 1" longer. 2) Custom LCA. Rear bushing mount would be replaced by one that allows for a bolt-through bushing or other joint (not that pin/tail style ours has). Move the spindle out 1" or more (CV + flange spacer) 3) Custom shock and UCA hanger/bracket that bolts between strut tower and both subframe points. May require cutting into wheel well above unibody primary support tube (no clue what they call it) to recess the UCA mounts. 4) Stock or aftermarket UCAs from a Frontier/X or Tacoma, possibly even W/D21. Former trucks have a lot of options; latter trucks have the UCA crosspin that might simplify mounting UCAs. Otherwise, custom UCA 5) If using Nissan parts, I'd probably just bring the spindle over from the truck. Will still be able to use manual hubs. There are some similarities for steering parts. Otherwise, custom adapter for the strut knuckle to use a uniball or Johnny joint instead of a balljoint. Obviously, lots of variability depending on budget and course of action, though this is more or less converting the strut to double-wishbone suspension. It doesn't afford a whole lot of additional travel, but better than OE. Definitely not for any high-speed action if using many OE parts. Here's where I say something like, "Man, Nissan sure made the Pathfinder a bastard," knowing that all those 2nd Gen Frontier/X guys basically have a kit just by swapping over some parts from a Titan. We share nothing with the other Nissans...hence, all custom.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnefine-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Steering/dp/B0787KWZPS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope. I was also thinking while driving that now I can leave the windows cracked when sleeping in the car. That should prevent all the condensation.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm... Interesting. Slart, looks like you were on the money! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2018 October - November-December. !

Well, the rain has started-that won’t stop until July. In some sunbreaks I still want to do a thorough clean & waxing of the roof before mounting the rack. I’m also working on about 1cm “towers” between the rails & the conduit clamp (to be fair, TownDawgR50 is really working on it for me). Pathy_02 put his on with conduit clamps to the rails about a year ago & it looks great. For my purposes I need just a little more clearance. I move slow so it may take a few weeks-months.

It was the compressor! Oh man! It’s sooo nice! Can’t live without AC... haha I think the whole issue might have been a lack of oil though... I filled the old compressor with iso100 turbine oil and it spit it out just like the new compressor. I have taken the AC apart so many times and each time a modest amount of oil comes out.. I will confirm this by putting my old compressor on the neighbors QX4 Wooh!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m about to do a fluid change on everything & noticed I couldn’t find recommendations on NPORA. I’ve heard of using Amsoil, Valvoline, Royal Purple, Red Line, Motul, Castrol & Mobil One. I’ve also heard of friction additives necessary with some. I thought a discussion of people’s preferences, schedules & pearls of wisdom might be a lively exchange! Oh yeah, volumes too.

I don’t think that’s a good idea man. What if it works and collects all that normal wear but then gets knocked off and sends it all at once into the transmission? The filter is just a screen and won’t catch that fine stuff that gets built up on the magnet. An easier solution might be to ditch the magnet altogether and just install an inline filter like some guys around here have done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing commercially available, and I don't think I've ever seen it done before. Definitely going to need to be custom unfortunately.