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Not a problem. We've had a few threads about shifting that have gotten interesting, to say the least, but we've had some spot topics come up. Your 97 QX4 is a little different than other R50/QX4 trucks since you have both a mechanical lever (positions H, N, and 4LO) plus an electronic switch (2wd, Auto, and Lock). 4H for you is H+Lock. When the shifter is in 4LO, though, the switch is disabled/bypassed. So if 4L works, I might suggest probing or cleaning the switch and seeing if that helps. Keep in mind the transfer case in yours has a motor to engage things, instead of a physical linkage, so it also relies on input from other sensors (and comm with the AT computer) before it'll act on drivetrain requests. Are you also basing engagement on the 4wd dash light(s), or are those lights indicating any issues? Also, may want to look at the Owner's Manual, or the Transfer Case chapter of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) (specific links for 97 QX4 embedded into this sentence) for some additional info or guidance.

Next on my list of things to do was install some window visors. It's getting harder to find this for our old trucks, so I recommend buying the kit before they're no longer available. Unlike the little chrome ones from my 1982 S10 pickup, the modern plastic ones probably won't be recycled for future use. My AC has been broken for quite some time and in the rain being able to crack the window helps reduce inside fog. Doing so however results in some rain coming in the car. I also always like to leave my windows cracked in the summertime to let the heat out of the interior, but leaves the opportunity for rain, theft, or mischief. I've always wanted some visors. I don't like the version that sticks on the side of the car door. Personally, I don't like their look and I don't like sticking things to the paint. The in-channel visors are a little more expensive, but really it's about like eating out one or two times so it's an easy trade off. I ended up buying a kit off eBay for about $50. Here's the package. It comes with the 4 visors, 4 very small alcohol wipes, and asmall scrub pad. I recommend a few cotton balls, more alcohol and a pair of tweezers. Oh, and a fairly clean car. This is how she looked without the visors Give everything a little test fit first, make sure you know what goes where. When you're finished playing, the instructions read that you should use the little scrub pad to clean the inside of the channel. Not sure why exactly, but I follow instructions well. Next the instructions say to use the alcohol pad and wipe out the channel. I like to think my car is pretty clean now, but this very small pad got dirty quick! This is where the extra cotton balls and alcohol come into play. I continued to clean the channels. The cotton balls never stopped coming out dirty, but they got better. I figured it was as good as it would get. The channels ended up pretty wet, so I let them sit for 10 mins or so to dry out. Eventually I was ready to install. This is where the cute little tweezers come in. I don't think I would have ever been able to get the back off the 3M tape without them. The visors have tape down the sides (on the front) and one side (on the back). Remove the side piece. Remove a few inches from each end of the top piece. Install as you tested and slowly pull the tape backing off. Push around to make sure it's fitting well. Roll the window up and let it sit 24 hours. I hope y'all find this helpful.

Oh yeah, I get that!

I've always wanted under hood lights. 20 years ago I thought about wiring up my own led string under the hood, but I shy'd away because of a lack of experience with soldering, circuits, etc. Now you can simply buy a strip that's already built and ready to go, so I decided I had no excuse not to try. There are sooo many choices on eBay and Amazon, it's a little overwhelming. I decided to go for one of the more pricey versions hoping it would be worth it and besides it came with the wire and pin switch. Here is what I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Underhood-LED-Light-Kit-w-Hood-Switch-Size-and-Color-Options-Available/291157773341?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=590308031148&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The ad claimed they lights were water and ice proof, sealed in a silicone coating. Ends sealed with marine grade heat shrink. 3M adhesive backing. I bought the 24" version of high intensity white. It has a 10' 20awg black wire and a small hood pin switch. The only thing I needed was more zip ties and a washer. Here is a before pic of the engine bay, in my garage, with the light on. I decided to mount it in front of the weatherstripping because it shined in my eyes less, although you'd really be looking down most of the time so who cares. It might have been protected more behind the weather stripping, but I went for it anyway. I drilled a small hole in the underside of the hood and fished the wire back to the rear corner. I pulled the wire through a little fast and it got in a little bit of a bind, but worked out ok. Next I used an existing hole to mount the hood pin by the battery since the positive would be headed that way anyway. I didn't have a power distribution block and I figured something this small didn't need a fuse. I ended up running the positive wire to the fuse box behind the battery. The negative side went to the pin switch. Easiest wire job ever. From there it was just a matter of zip tying up the wire. For less than $20 it is an easy and awesome mod. And the final result is:

After patiently waiting they finally arrived couldn't believe I also got the corner lights along with the fender lights really good deal 315$ out the door shipping and all. I've looked high and low for the wiring diagram on a terrano regulus and cannot find a FSM manual on it. I can get on and download the FSM for the 2001 QX4 which it has the Xenon too. Does anyone know if the wiring for the headlights on a 01 QX4 is the same for a 97 Terrano Regulus with the Xenon headlamps. Just wondering if I can use the 01 QX4 headlight wiring diagram and make it work on my 97 QX4? Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50

There shouldn't be any significant side-to-side wiggle for any position, but it seems possible you've got a rather smooth transition through neutral and that you're in the 4H position. In fact, if the lever were in N, and you put the transmission in park, you'd get a red ATP light on your dash. If you don't see that, you're probably in good shape. You could also crawl under the truck and inspect the shift linkage.

That Expedition Portal link...it's an okay read, but I wouldn't go past the first few pages unless you want to be suffocated by electrical theory and conversations rendered useless after people deleted their posts. I've seen some better links. I found this one especially useful for the basics: http://www.outbackcrossing.com.au/FourWheelDrive/Basic_Dual_Battery_System.shtml This post had a lot of pics: I dig @XPLORx4's setup, too. That's probably the route I'll probably take eventually, though I may run my camping accessories off it instead of having it solely for jumpstarts (but I would have a switch for that purpose, too).

Once again, nice little write up. Keep up the good work!

Great little write up. Maybe Admin can sticky it or make it its own thread! Nice job.

Looks great! I loved the OEM ones on my Infiniti, but I agree about preferring not to put things on the paint. When I get some for my current vehicle I'm definitely going with in-channel ones, this little writeup is useful!

I've been researching and found a few features that should be reviewed in considering which light bar to choose. 4D - Basically 4D means there is a little fish eye lens over the LED beneath the overall cover. Not only does this lens supposedly improve the performance of the led, but it provides another layer of protection. Moisture Evap Valve - We all want a waterproof light bar, right? But little is truly "waterproof" so what do you do when some condensation occurs? Perhaps choosing a light with some evaporation valve helps solve that issue. Wiring - If it comes with wiring, what does the wiring look like? It is a heavy enough gauge or not. A nice heavy gauge will help the light be brighter and more reliable. Are the wires protected from the weather and other condition sufficiently? What does it look like where the wires inter the housing? Are the connections solid? How long are the wires? Metal Finish - Is it anodized, painted, or powder coated. Mounting Brackets - are the mounting brackets good an solid? Are the screws stainless and of high quality? Personally I'm looking for something with standard bolt heads and not an allen head screw. Do the bolts and screws have good deep threads? Water Resistance - I'll say resistance vs proof. Proof is a big word. Is it just hot glued or super glued? Does it have rubber seals?

Dang, sorry to hear that. I dont have schematics. What you see on the image you posted is close. Since you already have a set id suggest doing what Onespiritbrain said. Can you weld or have a friend that can? If so you can salvage your material and save money but cutting the flanges flange free and setting it up yourself. The orientation of the bottom flange does not matter as the top hat spins 360° but the angle of the tube and the orientation of the angle are the key. If your tube is anything other than straight up and down its wrong. The whole point of the SFD is to "translate" the suspension downward. Just like the subframe blocks are only providing vertical lift, the strut spacers need to do the same. So you need to cut the tube at the proper angle and orient that angle so that the tube ends up matching the subframe blocks.

They are isolated I have them triggered when the car is on to open up. I also added a switch just in case the main went dead. They are supported by a metal plate on the bottom. I don't want to talk about how they are secured at the moment haha. It's on the todo list to secure it properly, but it's been on that list for a couple years.

Would be easy enough to cut a hole for them. Can provide a photo of the hole shape if you need from my JDM Terrano. With factory HIDs ?