MY1PATH Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 (edited) What this means is swapping left and right axles so the e-brake cables run out the top instead of the bottom. This keeps them safer from trail snags and also reduces pulling at drop for extended drop SL's like mine and for those with BL's (Mine pull pretty good at full drop and I already made and installed extensions.)I considered doing this when I did my disc swap but for whatever reason did not...I got the idea from Nissan Nut but he also moved his calipers to the top (I won't be) http://nissannut.com...233_disc_clock/ Plan of action; In my case the Calipers will stay on their respective sides and bolt onto the baffles that are swapped with the axles. The hard line mount on the baffle will need to be cut off and welded to the axle to keep its current position (otherwise it would be sitting under the axle after the flip) IIRC the L & R e-brake mounts on the body are different so I'll figure that out when I get there. Prolly just keep the cables on their respective sides too. While the axles are out I'll pull my 3rd member and re-modify my LSD; Look for LSD mod TAKE 2. sorry I never posted a take 1 but I will cover why take one didn't work out when I post take 2. So weather permitting, I should have pictures and what not up for yall to see how it all went down. And yes I know its supposed to rain all weekend but I been puttin this off a looong time so we'll see how bad the rain is... Edited March 14, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 I hope it goes smoothly for you!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 Thanks B. My carport is too small to cover me when pulling axles but I made a plan of action to keep dry; If I park right and lower the rig after pulling tires I can slide one axle into the kitcen and the other under the half-wall of my car port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted March 12, 2011 Share Posted March 12, 2011 I had my Pathy up on the rack yesterday and the e-brake cable was a big concern with the body lift. I too am considering the axle flip, but I think I will be leaving the cables connected to the backing plates and swapping them. The mount will spin around the cable and the spot where they mount to the body is pretty much the same on each side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 12, 2011 Author Share Posted March 12, 2011 (edited) not on my 89. each mount is different. See how one bolts to the bottom (I spaced it with square stock) And the other bolts to the side (I spaced it by making an extension) There are no nut-serts placed on the in the body mount for the opposite holes. Edited March 12, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Just paused for lunch and while its on my mind; Parking brake cables NEED to stay with their brakes. The casting on the end of the cable is oval and fits into the baffle in such a way that the opposite cable Will not go on. And since the mounts for the body are different on each side (first pic) I had to remove them and swap them over so the cables can say with their baffles. The LSD Mod is done and will be written up tonight or tomorrow and the same for the rest of this write up depending on when I finish... Edited March 13, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 LSD Take 2 is up Will finish axle flip and post pics after i get up Sunday.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 yea i'm curious on this flip...i dont have a park brake right now b/c if my BL unless i'm flexing and then the cables tighten up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Well the Flip Moves your axle side of the cable up about 6" wich is good For BL and SL combined. Now it looks like I can remove my custom drop down brackets Cause I got More than enough slack. The flip also keeps them out of the way of trail debris. I have not looked at drum brakes yet But I think Doing the Flip with drums would put the hardlines on the bottom. Edited March 14, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) Ok It all works and heres the short descriptions and pix. Cut off the hard line mounts or Drill out the Spot welds. They cannot stay on the Brake baffles because they will run under the axle that way and be in serious danger of impact. Remove the axles and remove hard line brackets from lines. I swapped the left and right brackets so they would face the same as before when welded to the Bump Stop Strikers. Re-install axles swapping left for right. And check that the new hard line location is not in the way of anything. Swap Body side parking brake mounts(as mentioned above) by prying them open and then clamping them shut on the opposite cables. Parking brake cables DO NOT need to come out of the brake baffle. Here Is My before and after from the side. See how tight and straight the cable is in the first pic and now see how the slack in the cable is allowed to Curve away from the wheel in the second pic. Here Is my before and after of the cable. The first pic shows the cable with the axle was actually hanging by it. I used to tear those loops allot. In the second pic the axle is almost fully dropped and unrestricted by the cable. No more torn loops. So now I can disconnect my sway bar on the trail and not worry about pulling on the parking cables. And I can almost reach full drop unrestricted. Edited March 14, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 14, 2011 Author Share Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) So now I can disconnect my sway bar on the trail and not worry about pulling on the parking cables. And I can almost reach full drop unrestricted. I said almost because solving one problem only uncovered another one.......in my last 1/2" of shock travel my drive shaft its the cross member. Enough to wear into it if I were in a situation full drop for extended distance. (aka going down washouts) Eventually I'll notch the cross member and weld a plate into the notch to keep the strength. But I think I'm reaching my limits in the rear unless I start making some awesome modifications.... EDIT; 510 just gave me the simple idea of putting a spacer under the tranny. This should give me some easy clearance Edited March 15, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted March 14, 2011 Share Posted March 14, 2011 Great write-up and documentation of a serious problem. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 limiting straps are your friend. they can be had for 25 bucks a piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 Speaking of limiting straps, I just installed a pair in the rear so I won't bind the links or lose a coil at full droop. I guess a new thread is in order. The straps coupled with this mod will address all of the rear suspension problems with stock links. Longer links will require modification to that cross member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 My links don't bind at all and it seems a spacer under my tranny will solve the clearance issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 My upper links seem to be limiting my down travel. When I had the truck up on the rack I could see that the rubber was being twisted pretty hard. Of course 20 year old rubber bushings are probably ready for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 16, 2011 Author Share Posted March 16, 2011 they only twist a litte from straight drop but they twist a bit more with articualtion. (1 wheel stuffed and the other dropped) Mine are a little tired too but thats why rugged rocks has those johnny joint links for us. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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