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Perfect thanks so much for the info, I will give this method a try! Maybe I should measure how much actually comes out and try to refill the same amount. Think I won't bother with the filter either then. Did you notice any difference in trans performance?

If neither CV spins when the driveshaft spins, something is very wrong with the front diff. That said, it's an open diff, so if one hub is locked, it'll spin up the CV on the other side rather than doing anything useful. The diffs are also hell for stout on these, and surrounded by weaker components, so, unlikely failure. The fuel gauge knowing about the outside temperature is weird. Not sure which way to send you on that one. I'd probably check under the access plate in the back first (under the rear carpet), see if there's a bunch of mud around the wiring connections that's shorting them out when it's wet or something.

lol right? I stopped asking my self similar questions when I found this is how they spell optional throughout the instructions.

Nice find! It's been too long since I built a model kit. Funny that the box lists the engine specs like they're something special. I'm also wondering what mistranslation led to it having a "fog roof."

Anyone have a source for smoothie wheels for our trucks?

Oh, and I only replaced the parts that were broken. I think I re-tapped a few threads also, just in case.

Interesting. I never looked closely enough, but that seems like it. That's what my cats looked like. I intended to replace them, but the kit I bought was total @!*% and effectively non-returnable. Lost a few hundred bucks in the process and just slapped my OEMs back on. Maybe one day when I'm not sour about the purchase I'll try replacing them again.

@hawairish so I figured out why you couldn’t find the ring gasket and wire mesh gasket. In the attached photo is the inside of the cat looking from the outlet. Where the honeycomb starts is where mesh gasket and ring gasket are weirdly enough. That would suggest the entire honeycomb structure is pressed into the cat body from the inlet. Also might mean back in the day you could get the cat actually rebuilt instead of replacing the whole thing. No idea why you would need a gasket though in that location still. The photo below is the inlet side of my cat. Some chunks missing and melted, what do you think, doneski? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I think that's the same knob that's on the US trucks with the all-mode. Anyone here with the all-mode box want to check the numbers on your module? Long shot that the US-spec computer would be the same.

I have considered converting my vehicle to a manual transfer, but the amount of work involved is overwhelming. Unfortunately, I am not skilled enough to do it myself and there are no shops near me that would take on the task. I am hoping to find the right transfer case module, but it seems like a long shot. It might be best to cut my losses and replace my vehicle, even though I really don't want to. It's starting to look like one of those 'if all the stars align' situations

yeah this is the 4WD Knob that's currently on my R50 sorry for the quality picture I grabbed this off google https://photos.app.goo.gl/R3LXPNDLNDSL6i4G8

You are very welcome. Chris.

I have no idea what fits what, but I did a little more poking around. I found a whole lot of modules that start with 33084, for a bunch of different vehicles and transmissions, but none with your full PN. Looks like 33084 says what it's for, and the rest of the part number says what it fits. I couldn't find any transfer modules listed for an '00 R50, or any year R50 that I searched, which is weird. But yeah, given how many flavors there are of this thing, I'm guessing the numbers do need to match up. IMO you've got two options at this point, and both involve scouring wrecking yards. Option one, find the same-ish year R50, same engine, same transmission, same transfer case, and hope it's got the same module in it. Option two, find an R50 with the TX10A manual transfer, and grab that, the shift linkage, the center console, probably the trans tunnel plate too if they're built that way, and convert yours to a transfer case that doesn't need no stinkin' computer. I don't know for sure that having that module gone wouldn't take something else out, but if it drives around as-is, and everything else seems to work, then hopefully it won't mind. I am still assuming I know what transfer case you've got. Does the knob have an "auto" position? I haven't heard of any other transfers being used on these, but Nissan does seem to enjoy changing weird things for no apparent reason.

He answered it all, thank you.

Oddly with duck duck go browser the search bar never came up, works fine with chrome. But thank you for the response, it was what I wanted.

Yeah I'm really surprised I didn't kill the engine, I heard the VG33E is pretty reliable I didn't really believe it until that day

Do you happen to know if the transfer case control module for the R50 Pathfinder is the same for all Pathfinders that are equipped with the VG33E engine? I have come across many transfer case control modules online, but the first five numbers on the part number are the same, while the last five numbers are different on most of them. They do mention that these modules are for 2005 models and up, so I am assuming they are meant for the VQ35DE engine and might not be compatible with mine.

Okay so I'm just starting to get into it and before I go breaking any of the cat mounting studs I wanted to ask you. If you break one of the studs, you can't use the two nut method to extract them, so how did you extract the broken stud? Also, are you saying you extracted and replaced all of the studs, even if they didn't break? I was just planning to replace only the bolts and nuts if none of the studs break. Got the driver side resonator off, here’s what the outlet side of the Bank 2 cat looks like: I think that is slag meaning melted sections of honeycomb. No telling what the inlet looks like.

Hey there TexasJim, this topic has been covered quite a bit in the past, the search feature on this site is very helpful as well. Now with that said here is a link to a thread that will give you some insight on the subject. Chris.

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Oof. Yeah, that's deep! You're lucky if that module's the only thing that responded poorly. I have not heard of any other model using the ATX14A automatic transfer (which I assume is what you have, given it's got a control unit). I've seen two variants of that, one with just a heater knob on the dash for 2h/auto/4h/4l, and one with a knob or buttons for 2/auto/4 and a manual shifter for high/low. I imagine you'll need to match the donor to the control style that yours has to get the right module. The case numbers didn't get me anywhere, but might be something you can confirm against a possible replacement at the wrecking yard. Hopefully they're not coded in or something dumb like that.

It is possible to fit the D21 sealed-beam headlights. You will need the buckets, grille, and corner/parking lights, and you'll need to change the light plugs. (It's generally recommended to build a relay harness for these rigs anyway, both to preserve the switch and to make sure the lights are getting full power.) I'm not crazy about the look, but it does open up a lot of options for better lights. I've seen people swap LED pods in place of the factory fog lights. Could be done cleanly if you can find the right size of pod. I had Hella 500FFs on my front bumper for a while. They were great when they were aimed right, but they wouldn't stay aimed right. I've got a cheap lightbar now, which does not have that issue. It's not a 1:1 replacement for the Hellas (it's more of a flood light), but it's good for spotting deer off to the sides. I've got it wired so it only works with the high beams, so I don't have to deal with two separate switches when there's oncoming traffic. For the hood vents, sounds like you're talking about something like Raptor grille lights. I haven't seen it done, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Might be tough to make it look intentional, though. There are holes all the way through the vents, but they're about the size of coin slots, and the hole in the hood behind them rests against the rubber strip that goes over the core support. I think my door seals let in more air than the hood vents do.

Hey guys, I'm putting a 2 inch lift on my ride. Any idea how big of tire can I run without rubbing?