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Ok that totally makes sense! I’ll try and mess with the connector. Thanks for the good idea, I’ll lyk how it turns out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't worked with the R50 fuel injection, but my WD21 acted up (low idle/stalling, but normal power off-idle) when the MAF connector was worn out. Wiggling the connector would bring it back for a while. Messing with the contacts in the connector cleared it up temporarily. After a while I got around to replacing the connector with one that fits snugly and doesn't shake around, and it hasn't acted up since. I don't know that this is your issue, but I would try screwing around with the connector to see if that clears it up for a while. If it does, could be it's the screwing around with the plug, not the new MAF, that's been bringing it around each time. If not, might be worth tracking down an OE MAF. Random misfires makes sense if it's struggling to run with an inaccurate idea of how much air it's getting. Knock sensor is likely unrelated.

Thank you for the details!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, I got those crossed up in my mind. Good catch. Looks like the dash switch grounds that wire, so I'm guessing there's some transistorized something or another in the amp (not just relay logic) that's applying a little voltage to that line so it can tell when it's grounded by the switch. I would assume that's normal. There is a switch for the tailgate (built into the latch), but it's not part of this circuit. Sounds like the switch for the hatch glass is doing what it's supposed to do. Hopefully the relay gives you a smoking gun.

So when I first bought my rig (- ~9000 miles ago) It did not run good at all. It blew smoke and was ran poorly. I put in a new (old from a 98 frontier) throttle body and a mass air flow sensor. Then it ran good. Ran good for 7-8k miles. Was sitting for a month or so outside then it didn’t want to start and was runnin bad. Then kept dying every 30 seconds and losing power the next day. No acceleration or would fade in and out. Limped it to a shop. They cleaned the MAF, throttle body, put in new spark plugs. Ran okay for 40 miles rhen did the same @!*% again. Got it towed back and had to leave it in the shop for a month. He put in a new MAF and it was running good for another 1000 miles. Then I discovered that the previous owner had blocked off the air intake with a metal plate, removed the whole air intake box thing that goes next to the wheel well, and drilled holes in the air filter housing to let air in. So I replaced it all with a setup from a pathfinder at the pick n pull. Sounded less loud and the engine seemed to be a little smoother. Drove it for another 400 miles and now the same thing happened to my partner where it dies out and looses power. So I’m gonna replace the air flow sensor again, but I want to consult you guys. 1. Should I buy the dealership OEM MAF sensor or the regular ones from the auto parts store? 2. You guys think I’m right in diagnosing it as the MAF failing again? its also throwing random misfire code and knock sensor 1 codes but im pretty sure they have been on for a while.) 2. If it is the MAF Why do you think the engine started messing up again after only 1000 miles even after I replaced the air intake stuff? When previously it ran for 7-8k miles on a new MAF sensor. Thanks folks. -Logan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Searching on youtube for nissan r50 strut installation should give you a few pretty detailed diy videos. I swapped my aging/failing oem shocks/struts/springs for an OME/KYB setup (as well as kyb mounts and bearings. It was fairly straightforward. Its much easier if you can get a second person to help you remove the front struts. I used this spring compressor and it was very effective and seemed solid/safe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP2CDJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When it comes to the burning smell of trans or clutch material, if your WD21 is still on it's original clutch it might be a sign that it's starting to fail. My 2001 R50 4X4 5-Speed did the same thing shortly before my original OEM clutch gave up the ghost. Chris.

If your driveshaft spins and the CVs don't, then something's wrong with your ring and/or pinion. Maybe sheared the teeth off the pinion. Might be able to open the fill plug hole and peek through. Otherwise drop the diff and replace with one from a D21 or WD21. Also, no need to start a new thread about the same issue. Your original thread in General was fine.

I do have easy access to the relay through the little removable door just in front of the turn signal. I have had that relay exposed during my testing. I don't recall ever hearing it click, but I can't say for sure that I've actually been back there during the right conditions. It's easy enough to replicate, so I'll do that first chance I get. While I'm at it, I'll also check all the voltages at the relay to make sure I don't see anything abnormal there. I don't see a switch for the rear tailgate itself, so I'm assuming it being open shouldn't impact anything. Based on my earlier tests, I can say for sure that when the hatch was open, the wiper shut off, and would not operate in any position of the switch. This also dropped the voltage on the white/blue wire at connector #211 to 0V from the 9.1v.

Hi, I haven't finished reading the rest of your post yet, but I wanted to be sure we're on the same page first by clarifying something. The wire on dash switch (connector #211) where I'm reading the 9.1 volts is the white/blue wire (pin 1), not the blue/white wire (pin 2, I believe). Hopefully I didn't screw that up somewhere in my postings. According to the diagram you provided on EL-70, this goes to the amplifier. I don't see where it goes anywhere else. Since everything else on connector #211 showed either 0 or 12v, then I'm assuming that 9.1v is an output coming from the amplifier (the switch itself tested good, per my earlier post). Am I missing something here?

Sorry I missed that. This kind of thing is a pain to diagnose over the internet via text, especially given how unexpectedly complicated this wiper circuit is. Blue/white doesn't go to the amp at all. Green/red carries fused + to the glass hatch switch. When the hatch is shut, blue/white carries power from the switch to the relay coil (you should be able to make the relay click on and off by playing with that switch) and to the switch on the dash. If the switch is set to on or intermittent, it connects blue/white to red/blue, which goes back to the relay, through the normally open contacts (closed now that the relay is active), to green/red, the fused + feed again. All I can figure is that this is latching the relay--so if the relay is engaged (ignition on/hatch closed), and the rear wiper is on or intermittent, opening the hatch switch won't disengage the relay, because it's passing power to its own coil, effectively bypassing the glass hatch switch. This would make the wiper keep going if you opened the hatch with the key, which seems like it would be a bad thing--though I guess you can't open the hatch with the key when the key is in the ignition. There must be some reason it's set up like this--but I don't think that rabbit hole has the answer to this problem at the end of it. (Assuming I'm following the lines on the diagram correctly.) The takeaway I'm going with is that power on blue/white should make the relay click. If the relay isn't working, and it's leaving the normally open contacts closed when the coil is powered, it would be applying fused + to blue/black. I have no idea what effect this would have. Might be confusing the amp? Pull that trim panel, test the relay. Make sure it's good, and make sure it clicks when you turn the key on with the glass closed. If the relay is OK, but it isn't getting enough power from blue/white to click, chase that low voltage. If it's working how it should, I would rule it out for now. It looks like I was wrong about the contacts on the motor powering it directly. Blue from the contacts goes to the amp. So the contacts don't run the motor directly--they tell the amp to do it. I'm also seeing a the blue/black wire, running to the "wash" position on the switch, which I assume grounds out that same blue wire when the washer pump is running. If blue or blue/black is grounded out, this would cause the amp to run the wiper motor whenever the ignition is on. Sounds like your testing has ruled this one out, though. The amp has pretty much full control of the motor. Blue/yellow goes straight from the motor to the amp. Blue/red goes to the switch, which grounds it (along with the white/blue wire to the amp) in the "on" position, or connects it to the amp via the black/blue wire in any other position. If the dash switch is good, and neither of the blue/black wires (there are two black/blue wires in the same plug) are grounded (telling the amp to run the motor), then, yeah, that points to the amp. The trim panel should come out without too much fuss. If it's like its counterpart in the four-door, it's just a grab-and-pull job, apart from the very back lower bit that's hooked under the plastic trim at the back of the cargo floor. If that trim has the same stupid plastic screws that mine does, I recommend a flat-blade screwdriver, with as little downward force as possible, until you can hook a fingernail under them. They push in, which makes them impossible to unscrew with a Phillips driver. It is possible to get the side panel out around the floor trim, but in my experience it's more difficult that doing it right.

Yeah, as Slart mentioned, this is bad. Recall any noise? Can also lift a wheel and try turning the CV flange coming off the diff, or turning the driveshaft. Something else should turn.

Procedure seems right from what I see in the service manual. Got a 2nd fob? Battery installed in the correct direction? Are the metal tabs for the "+" side still intact and do they contact the circuit board? Any visible damage on the circuit board?

The rear are just a quick swap and drop in replacement, the front are not the same. You'll have to get a spring compressor for the front coils to safely remove/install the coils from the shocks. I run KYB and the 5100 setup and it's what I expected for the research I did. Pretty stiff in the front which I prefer, and the rear with the 9449 coils is still pretty soft but holds a lot of weight when camping. Not a super hard job, but is a bit scarier to do with the higher spring rate AC coils. (the stress could've turned my hair grey at 20)

hi, today my key fob stopped working on my 2004 pathfinder. i went and bought an appropriate battery for it believing this to be the problem. i installed it correctly. i attempted to work through the suggested fob programming where you get in car, lock door, enter key 6-10 times until hazards flash on console, turn key to 'acc' setting and then press any button on the fob... i do this but the hazard will not recognize any button being pressed on the fob, at all. so the process cannot be completed and i'm still left with a fob that can't lock/unlock the doors. does anyone have any insight as to why this would occur? are there any suggestive fixes that i might be able to do? thanks!

That's not a vacuum line, just a breather. There's no center axle disconnect on these. If the input spins, the outputs should spin too. Again, it's an open diff, so it may only spin one side depending on which hub is locked/which side has more drag on it. I would be very surprised if the diff was bad. My money's still on the hubs, or maybe a CV axle. Should be easy enough to check, though. With the truck parked in 2H, slide underneath and turn the front driveshaft by hand, while watching the flanges that the CVs bolt to. If one or both outputs do turn, then it's not the diff. If neither flange turns, and the driveshaft just sorta freewheels, then, yeah, that's gotta be the diff. To check the transfer case, put the shifter in 4x and try turning the driveshaft again. If the transfer case is working, the driveshaft won't turn. If they both check out, I'd take a closer look at the CVs and hubs. Sounds like you party a lot harder than I do!

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Okay, so, got stuck in a mud pit and found out my 4wd does not work. Put my pathy on a lift, to find out my driveshaft spins, yet my CV axles do not. anybody able to save me some time? anybody with the 5spd manual experience a smoking through shift boot/smelly burning trans when going freeway/highway speeds for extended periods of time? I should really stop buying vehicles that "used to have" 4wd.

sorry for the late reply, I forgot I existed. So, First off figured out my fuel issue, there was a pin connector i just took in and blew it out and everything works fine. As for my 4wd, you think its my diff? i had suspicion it was my vacuum line from motor to diff. Would that line by chance control the attachment of the diff to the cv? or do you think I have glitter soup in my diff?

See my post 3 posts above your last one. Initially, I tested the switch with the switch disconnected. That's when I observed the initial fluctuations on the switch with the hatch open (switch closed). I cleaned the switch up the best I could, and then got stable readings (~0.8 ohms with switch closed, and OC with switch open). With the switch disconnected, I decided to test the wipers with a jumper in place of the switch, as you suggested here. That did not resolve the issue, and rear wiper still would not shut off. I also note here that with the switch disconnected (this should correspond to glass hatch shut), the white/blue wire on connector #211 still read 9.1v. When I jumpered the switch connector (hatch open), this voltage dropped to 0v (and inhibited rear wiper operation, as it should). The 265 ohms I read across the switch was after my jumper test failed, and yes, this was with the switch connected (and relay connected). I will check the voltage across the switch as you suggest later tonight, hopefully. I'll also check red/green at the switch. Reading back, I just noticed that I did check the red/green lines at the relay, and they did read 12v, so I expect it should be fine at the switch as well. I guess one thing I keep wondering is why the 9.1v on the white/blue wire at connector #211? While I don't know exactly how that amplifier works, I note that the white/blue wire goes between the dash switch and the amplifier, and does not appear to go anywhere else. So my question is then whether the white/blue wire is an input or an output of the amplifier? If it's an output from the amplifier, wouldn't that mean a problem with the amp? Or perhaps that output is dependent on the inputs to the amp? I was hoping to avoid it, but it seems like I'm going to have to take off those side panels to get to that amp and take some readings there. I can also ohm out the white/blue wire with the dash switch & amp disconnected, to verify whether any wiring issue there, as well as all the other wiring. Then, if all the voltages at the amp seem normal and I don't see that ~9.1v somewhere, then it seems like it would have to be an amp issue. I'll double check again, but as I recall all the voltages at the relay seemed normal. For the wiring between the roof/hatch, there looks to be a rubberized conduit through which the wires pass. It doesn't look damaged in any way, but that doesn't mean the wiring inside might not be. I think getting access to the amplifier and connections there may be necessary at this point.

Hopefully the corrosion was what killed the link. Gotta wonder what popped the locks fuse. There is a power lock in the tailgate, so, yeah, could be something going on between the two. Again, I would check the wiring between the roof and the hatch. Relay sounds OK. Should be some resistance across the coil, continuity across the normally closed contacts, open across the other two. If you apply 12v to the coil, the normally closed contacts should be open, and you should have continuity across the other two. Are you testing the switch while it's plugged in? Testing components while they're hooked up is a great way to confuse the hell out of yourself. If it tests good when it's unplugged, the switch is OK. The only tests I'd do with the switch plugged in is check for power across it (assuming you can get to it without putting your fingers in the way of the linkage). If the switch is closed, and you've got significant power across it (I would expect millivolts, but not many of them), something ain't right. If in doubt, temporarily bypass the switch (jumper leads work great for this) and see if that clears up the issue. Is red/green getting 12v?

I noticed that there were 2 Green/Red wires going to the relay, and I only checked the relay contact of one in my test above, so I took some more resistance readings on the relay itself with no power applied. I'm not sure what to expect or if this is really useful. But I noted the following: resistance across contacts 1-2 (as labeled on the relay)=75 ohms (contact 1 should be GND, while 2= blue/white wire) resistance across contacts 3-4= 0 ohms (contact 3 should be Blue/Black wire, while 4= Green/Red wire). Contact 4= top contact on the relay as shown in the manual All the other pairs showed an open circuit From the diagram in the manual, it looks like the readings on 3-4 could be normal, depending on voltage applied to the other contacts. Contacts 1-2 go across the windings of the relay. I'm not sure what that reading there should be, but I do note that the blue/white wire is involved here.

I just thought of another quick test I could do. Since I noticed the issue only with the relay in place, I decided to unplug the relay, and check the ohmage between the blue/white and red/green wires on connector #118 coming into the relay. This showed an open. Since on the rear glass switch end, it also showed an open between these wires without the relay, I figured the issue must be the relay itself. When I ohmed the pins on the relay corresponding to those wires, I also saw an open, which surprised me since I was expecting to see the 265 ohms. Next, I got on the back of connector #118 with some paper clips, and read the ohmage between the blue/white and red/green wires. With the relay in place, I read the 265 ohms. When I unplugged the relay, I read an open. I'm not sure if this means my relay is bad (that would be my guess), or if somehow the relay is working properly but enabling some other path through which I'm reading the 265 ohms. Assuming it is the relay, any ideas on best place to get this?

Well, I thought I had confirmed the rear glass switch was the problem. First, I disconnected the connector to the switch, and monitored pin 1 of connector #211. Before this was ~9v with the rear glass closed. When I disconnected the switch, I also got 9v, so I guess an open on the switch corresponds to hatch closed. Next, I shorted the connector going to the rear glass switch, and the voltage on pin 1 of #211 dropped to 0v. Next I decided to ohm the switch itself. On the connector coming from the switch, I read an open with the rear glass open. With the rear glass closed, I noticed the ohmage fluctuating, though it did eventually settle down to around ~2-3 ohms. I jiggled the connector a little, and noticed large fluctuations. I thought the wiring was probably bad, but luckily I have some long springy leads where I was able to reach directly on the contacts of the switch. I noticed these same fluctuations when I manually depressed the switch button, so I thought for sure the switch was my problem. I sprayed some electronic cleaner on the switch and got it to where it was reading 0.8 ohms with the button out, and an open when the button was depressed. I felt sure this would solve my problem. I decided to test with the rear glass switch disconnected. I started with the connector going to the switch shorted, to emulate the rear glass open. Sure enough, when I did this, the rear wiper would not operate, regardless of the dash switch position. Next, I disconnected the jumper on the rear glass switch connector, thinking I should have normal wiper operation. Unfortunately, the rear wiper would not shut off, as before. I was puzzled, so I went back to the rear glass switch leads. I noticed that with the rear glass closed, I was not seeing a full open on the switch any longer, but instead something like 265 ohms. I thought maybe the switch was bad, but when I disconnected the switch from the wiring harness, I noticed it now showed a solid open again. I then ohmed the other side of connector #160 (coming from the wiring harness) and I also read ~265 ohms between the wires going to the switch. From this, it appears that there is some issue between the blue/white wire and green/red wire going to the switch. I disconnected the dash switch just to see if that made any difference, and it did not. I then disconnected the rear wiper relay at connector #118, and I then measured an open on the rear glass switch with the glass closed. Could the rear wiper relay be bad, and this causing the issue? I was hoping I might have another elsewhere in the truck I could swap it out with to test, but I did not see one at a glance. I'll try to see if the manual shows a test procedure for this relay.

Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I'll try to do a little more tomorrow when the weather is cooperating better. You mentioned a fuse blowing and another circuit, and it made me think of something else that I should have mentioned. I remember after replacing the fusible link, turning the ignition on to test things. Everything seemed normal, but I noticed that my power locks were not working. I pulled the fuse (10a, as I recall), and it was burned. I replaced that fuse, and the locks returned to operating normally. I didn't think about it again until your mention above of a blown fuse and another circuit, and it rung a bell. For sure, the fusible link did look quite old and there was noticeable corrosion around the terminals. From the looks of it, I do believe this had been replaced one time before, as it was clearly not the stock connectorized fusible link that is shown by Nissan (Nissan part #24021-V5112). Maybe the replacement fusible link was undersized? I'm not sure what gauge that fusible link should be, but I think I read somewhere it was 16 gauge, but I wasn't sure this was right. I used 14 gauge based on the size of the terminals/spade connectors, but that was just a guess. I actually would have guessed 12 gauge, but I was afraid to go with too large of a fusible link and defeat the purpose. This is the fusible link that powers the instrument panel (i know just because nothing on the instrument panel was working), and based on the blown fuse, I guess the power locks as well. I don't know if this same fusible link ties into the rear wipers, but I guess that might make sense with the switch being on the dash. It looks like there's a connector right there by the switch for the glass hatch, so I should be able to disconnect the switch easily enough, and open or short the connector and check the voltage on the white/blue wire (pin 1 of connector 211) easily enough. If that solves the problem, then I'll know it's the switch. I'll let you know what I find. Many thanks again for all your help! I'd be like a blind squirrel here without your advice.