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I could not get the amazon aftermarket fobs to work for the life of me (I have a 98 SE), and ended up getting a used OEM fob from ebay. it worked the very first time I programmed it. Amazon may be worth a try if its a bunch cheaper since they have 30 day returns. Here's a link to the ebay company that I got the good fob from: https://www.ebay.com/str/pnwkeys They may or may not have one for your model since they deal in used OEM fobs, but I can vouch that the one they sent me works.

I recommend looking for replacement unit on Amazon, just make sure to match the replacement fob with the same Part Number that's printed on the back of your current fob. That's what I did and I was able to locate two of them for $11.75 on Amazon lol!! Chris.

Thanks for checking that out- yes, it is helpful. I can do without the hatch switch for now (easy enough for me to just remember not to pop the hatch with the wiper running), but if you know of a good source for that, I'd appreciate it. I have a hard time finding pathy's that old at local junkyards around. Even a part # would help (I don't think that's in the service manual you gave me?). I tried a search but don't seem to find a part resembling mine. Yes, that switch could have been out for a long time now, and I just never noticed it. I can't think of a time when I tried to run the rear wiper with the hatch opened. And from my tests the other day, I do recall I wasn't originally getting a good short out of it. I sprayed some electronic cleaner in there and it seemed to be working ok after that, so I thought it would be alright. I guess not, and it went bad for good this time. Maybe I can repair it once I remove the latch, but I'll have to take a look and see when I get there. Your mention of the cargo light also reminded me that I have to manually turn mine on, even when opening the whole tailgate. I would think that switch would be obvious, but I seem to recall looking for it some years ago, and not immediately finding it. If you can tell me where the tailgate switch is located, maybe I'll take a look at that too while I'm in there. I tried looking in the service manual, but didn't immediately find the physical location. It would be easier if I could do a search in that manual, and I thought Acrobat used to do an OCR recognition that would allow that, but I don't seem to have the option anymore. Back to the problem at hand- I'm looking at EL-72 which shows a test procedure for the amp. The text says "if the test lamp comes on when connected to terminal 6 and battery ground, the amp is good". But the diagram shows the test lamp connected between terminals 2 and 7. Terminal 6 they show as battery ground in that diagram, and terminal 7 is body ground according to the diagram on El-70. Do you think that's just a typo/mistake in the text description, and terminal 6 in the quote above should read terminal 2?

Interesting. Agreed that it shouldn't be the problem, but odd that it's out at the same time. I guess it could've been out for quite a while without being noticed. I've had the latch off of mine a couple of times (I added a second switch to it so it turns on the cargo light when it's unlatched), and I don't remember it giving me too much trouble going back together. The four bolts on the plate shouldn't give you a problem. The two holding the latch to the plate have slotted holes for adjustment, so draw around the latch (or the bolt heads) with a marker before taking those out so you can put it back where it was. I had a look at mine to refresh my memory on how the wiper's supposed to work. With the switch set to intermittent, the motor turns counterclockwise (from my viewpoint under the hatch), and the linkage stops just short of the lockout switch for the hatch popper. When I turn the switch off, the motor turns clockwise, parks the wiper, and depresses the switch. This confirms that the gap to your hatch popper lockout switch is normal, for whatever that's worth.

thanks for the reply. i took the fob (my last) to a locksmith who determined it was on the fritz - sending signals regardless of being pressed. so, it's new fob time for me.

I had a little time before it got dark, and so checked out the relay/hatch switch. When I toggled the switch, I did not hear the relay clicking, and the wiper also did not stop. I was puzzled, because I was sure I had tested this before and the wiper would not operate with the switch in closed position. Looking back at my post, I'm not sure I ever actually tested this with the switch in place, but I instead had tested with a jumper in place of the switch. In any event, it looks like the switch is definitely bad, as when I checked across the terminals I got 12V even when toggling the switch, regardless of position. I disconnected the switch and ohmed it out, and sure enough it was now a solid open, regardless of the switch button being in or out. So it looks like I have a bad switch now that I should replace. It looks like I have to take the latch off (4 screws?) to access the switch. Anything I need to be aware of before taking that off, or is it just bolt on/off? Regardless of the switch problem, I don't think that explains the root of the wiper never turning off. The switch should be an open when the hatch is closed, allowing the wiper to operate. The switch would never be closed so long as the hatch is closed, so effectively, the wiper should think the hatch is always closed with the switch being in the stuck open position. This should not prevent the rear wiper from turning off. While I had the switch disconnected, I went ahead and tested the relay by shorting the switch connector with a jumper. I could definitely hear the relay toggling, and the wiper would not operate regardless of the dash switch position with the jumper in place. It got dark before I could take any more voltage readings.

Ok that totally makes sense! I’ll try and mess with the connector. Thanks for the good idea, I’ll lyk how it turns out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I haven't worked with the R50 fuel injection, but my WD21 acted up (low idle/stalling, but normal power off-idle) when the MAF connector was worn out. Wiggling the connector would bring it back for a while. Messing with the contacts in the connector cleared it up temporarily. After a while I got around to replacing the connector with one that fits snugly and doesn't shake around, and it hasn't acted up since. I don't know that this is your issue, but I would try screwing around with the connector to see if that clears it up for a while. If it does, could be it's the screwing around with the plug, not the new MAF, that's been bringing it around each time. If not, might be worth tracking down an OE MAF. Random misfires makes sense if it's struggling to run with an inaccurate idea of how much air it's getting. Knock sensor is likely unrelated.

Thank you for the details!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, I got those crossed up in my mind. Good catch. Looks like the dash switch grounds that wire, so I'm guessing there's some transistorized something or another in the amp (not just relay logic) that's applying a little voltage to that line so it can tell when it's grounded by the switch. I would assume that's normal. There is a switch for the tailgate (built into the latch), but it's not part of this circuit. Sounds like the switch for the hatch glass is doing what it's supposed to do. Hopefully the relay gives you a smoking gun.

So when I first bought my rig (- ~9000 miles ago) It did not run good at all. It blew smoke and was ran poorly. I put in a new (old from a 98 frontier) throttle body and a mass air flow sensor. Then it ran good. Ran good for 7-8k miles. Was sitting for a month or so outside then it didn’t want to start and was runnin bad. Then kept dying every 30 seconds and losing power the next day. No acceleration or would fade in and out. Limped it to a shop. They cleaned the MAF, throttle body, put in new spark plugs. Ran okay for 40 miles rhen did the same @!*% again. Got it towed back and had to leave it in the shop for a month. He put in a new MAF and it was running good for another 1000 miles. Then I discovered that the previous owner had blocked off the air intake with a metal plate, removed the whole air intake box thing that goes next to the wheel well, and drilled holes in the air filter housing to let air in. So I replaced it all with a setup from a pathfinder at the pick n pull. Sounded less loud and the engine seemed to be a little smoother. Drove it for another 400 miles and now the same thing happened to my partner where it dies out and looses power. So I’m gonna replace the air flow sensor again, but I want to consult you guys. 1. Should I buy the dealership OEM MAF sensor or the regular ones from the auto parts store? 2. You guys think I’m right in diagnosing it as the MAF failing again? its also throwing random misfire code and knock sensor 1 codes but im pretty sure they have been on for a while.) 2. If it is the MAF Why do you think the engine started messing up again after only 1000 miles even after I replaced the air intake stuff? When previously it ran for 7-8k miles on a new MAF sensor. Thanks folks. -Logan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Searching on youtube for nissan r50 strut installation should give you a few pretty detailed diy videos. I swapped my aging/failing oem shocks/struts/springs for an OME/KYB setup (as well as kyb mounts and bearings. It was fairly straightforward. Its much easier if you can get a second person to help you remove the front struts. I used this spring compressor and it was very effective and seemed solid/safe: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP2CDJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When it comes to the burning smell of trans or clutch material, if your WD21 is still on it's original clutch it might be a sign that it's starting to fail. My 2001 R50 4X4 5-Speed did the same thing shortly before my original OEM clutch gave up the ghost. Chris.

If your driveshaft spins and the CVs don't, then something's wrong with your ring and/or pinion. Maybe sheared the teeth off the pinion. Might be able to open the fill plug hole and peek through. Otherwise drop the diff and replace with one from a D21 or WD21. Also, no need to start a new thread about the same issue. Your original thread in General was fine.

I do have easy access to the relay through the little removable door just in front of the turn signal. I have had that relay exposed during my testing. I don't recall ever hearing it click, but I can't say for sure that I've actually been back there during the right conditions. It's easy enough to replicate, so I'll do that first chance I get. While I'm at it, I'll also check all the voltages at the relay to make sure I don't see anything abnormal there. I don't see a switch for the rear tailgate itself, so I'm assuming it being open shouldn't impact anything. Based on my earlier tests, I can say for sure that when the hatch was open, the wiper shut off, and would not operate in any position of the switch. This also dropped the voltage on the white/blue wire at connector #211 to 0V from the 9.1v.

Hi, I haven't finished reading the rest of your post yet, but I wanted to be sure we're on the same page first by clarifying something. The wire on dash switch (connector #211) where I'm reading the 9.1 volts is the white/blue wire (pin 1), not the blue/white wire (pin 2, I believe). Hopefully I didn't screw that up somewhere in my postings. According to the diagram you provided on EL-70, this goes to the amplifier. I don't see where it goes anywhere else. Since everything else on connector #211 showed either 0 or 12v, then I'm assuming that 9.1v is an output coming from the amplifier (the switch itself tested good, per my earlier post). Am I missing something here?

Sorry I missed that. This kind of thing is a pain to diagnose over the internet via text, especially given how unexpectedly complicated this wiper circuit is. Blue/white doesn't go to the amp at all. Green/red carries fused + to the glass hatch switch. When the hatch is shut, blue/white carries power from the switch to the relay coil (you should be able to make the relay click on and off by playing with that switch) and to the switch on the dash. If the switch is set to on or intermittent, it connects blue/white to red/blue, which goes back to the relay, through the normally open contacts (closed now that the relay is active), to green/red, the fused + feed again. All I can figure is that this is latching the relay--so if the relay is engaged (ignition on/hatch closed), and the rear wiper is on or intermittent, opening the hatch switch won't disengage the relay, because it's passing power to its own coil, effectively bypassing the glass hatch switch. This would make the wiper keep going if you opened the hatch with the key, which seems like it would be a bad thing--though I guess you can't open the hatch with the key when the key is in the ignition. There must be some reason it's set up like this--but I don't think that rabbit hole has the answer to this problem at the end of it. (Assuming I'm following the lines on the diagram correctly.) The takeaway I'm going with is that power on blue/white should make the relay click. If the relay isn't working, and it's leaving the normally open contacts closed when the coil is powered, it would be applying fused + to blue/black. I have no idea what effect this would have. Might be confusing the amp? Pull that trim panel, test the relay. Make sure it's good, and make sure it clicks when you turn the key on with the glass closed. If the relay is OK, but it isn't getting enough power from blue/white to click, chase that low voltage. If it's working how it should, I would rule it out for now. It looks like I was wrong about the contacts on the motor powering it directly. Blue from the contacts goes to the amp. So the contacts don't run the motor directly--they tell the amp to do it. I'm also seeing a the blue/black wire, running to the "wash" position on the switch, which I assume grounds out that same blue wire when the washer pump is running. If blue or blue/black is grounded out, this would cause the amp to run the wiper motor whenever the ignition is on. Sounds like your testing has ruled this one out, though. The amp has pretty much full control of the motor. Blue/yellow goes straight from the motor to the amp. Blue/red goes to the switch, which grounds it (along with the white/blue wire to the amp) in the "on" position, or connects it to the amp via the black/blue wire in any other position. If the dash switch is good, and neither of the blue/black wires (there are two black/blue wires in the same plug) are grounded (telling the amp to run the motor), then, yeah, that points to the amp. The trim panel should come out without too much fuss. If it's like its counterpart in the four-door, it's just a grab-and-pull job, apart from the very back lower bit that's hooked under the plastic trim at the back of the cargo floor. If that trim has the same stupid plastic screws that mine does, I recommend a flat-blade screwdriver, with as little downward force as possible, until you can hook a fingernail under them. They push in, which makes them impossible to unscrew with a Phillips driver. It is possible to get the side panel out around the floor trim, but in my experience it's more difficult that doing it right.

Yeah, as Slart mentioned, this is bad. Recall any noise? Can also lift a wheel and try turning the CV flange coming off the diff, or turning the driveshaft. Something else should turn.

Procedure seems right from what I see in the service manual. Got a 2nd fob? Battery installed in the correct direction? Are the metal tabs for the "+" side still intact and do they contact the circuit board? Any visible damage on the circuit board?

The rear are just a quick swap and drop in replacement, the front are not the same. You'll have to get a spring compressor for the front coils to safely remove/install the coils from the shocks. I run KYB and the 5100 setup and it's what I expected for the research I did. Pretty stiff in the front which I prefer, and the rear with the 9449 coils is still pretty soft but holds a lot of weight when camping. Not a super hard job, but is a bit scarier to do with the higher spring rate AC coils. (the stress could've turned my hair grey at 20)

hi, today my key fob stopped working on my 2004 pathfinder. i went and bought an appropriate battery for it believing this to be the problem. i installed it correctly. i attempted to work through the suggested fob programming where you get in car, lock door, enter key 6-10 times until hazards flash on console, turn key to 'acc' setting and then press any button on the fob... i do this but the hazard will not recognize any button being pressed on the fob, at all. so the process cannot be completed and i'm still left with a fob that can't lock/unlock the doors. does anyone have any insight as to why this would occur? are there any suggestive fixes that i might be able to do? thanks!

That's not a vacuum line, just a breather. There's no center axle disconnect on these. If the input spins, the outputs should spin too. Again, it's an open diff, so it may only spin one side depending on which hub is locked/which side has more drag on it. I would be very surprised if the diff was bad. My money's still on the hubs, or maybe a CV axle. Should be easy enough to check, though. With the truck parked in 2H, slide underneath and turn the front driveshaft by hand, while watching the flanges that the CVs bolt to. If one or both outputs do turn, then it's not the diff. If neither flange turns, and the driveshaft just sorta freewheels, then, yeah, that's gotta be the diff. To check the transfer case, put the shifter in 4x and try turning the driveshaft again. If the transfer case is working, the driveshaft won't turn. If they both check out, I'd take a closer look at the CVs and hubs. Sounds like you party a lot harder than I do!

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Okay, so, got stuck in a mud pit and found out my 4wd does not work. Put my pathy on a lift, to find out my driveshaft spins, yet my CV axles do not. anybody able to save me some time? anybody with the 5spd manual experience a smoking through shift boot/smelly burning trans when going freeway/highway speeds for extended periods of time? I should really stop buying vehicles that "used to have" 4wd.

sorry for the late reply, I forgot I existed. So, First off figured out my fuel issue, there was a pin connector i just took in and blew it out and everything works fine. As for my 4wd, you think its my diff? i had suspicion it was my vacuum line from motor to diff. Would that line by chance control the attachment of the diff to the cv? or do you think I have glitter soup in my diff?