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Hi folks A bit of an issue has popped up with my sons r50. 2000 model with 311,000 kms on the clock. Australian release with VG33E. Great service history and one owner before we got it. It has seemingly been looked after very well for most of its life. The car is struggling with gear changes. From a standing start, accelerating easily on flat ground, it will not shift from first to second. In fact it will rev as far as you let it with just very mild throttle without changing gears. The moment you release from the throttle a touch (not off the throttle completely), it will change gears. When it does change gears the change is normal….not hard. But it will not change until you release the throttle a tiny bit. We have changed out the tps for a known good one. And we have done a full trans fluid change (although wasn’t confident that would be the issue). None of those changes made and difference. I ran the transmission through the diagnostic sequence (so you get the flashes with the O/D OFF light. I do get the 10 flash sequence which shows 6, 7 and 10 getting slightly longer flashes. Online searches seem to indicate Flash 6: Overrun clutch solenoid circuit fault. Flash 7: Torque converter lock-up solenoid circuit fault. Flash 10: Line pressure solenoid circuit fault. I haven’t yet dipped into these codes too much, and am not sure if this is showing me historical or current codes……or both. Before I go too much deeper, I wanted to ask the group if anyone has come across this before, and if so, what was the fix. Or indeed any suggestions. Thankyou.

I took a look underneath the car. I noticed that the exhaust system has rotted a lot. I see that a joint is missing a bolt as shown in the picture below. I also noticed, many months ago, that the metal underneath the driver's seat was scalding hot. Is there anything else that can cause the seat to burn my hand than an exhaust leak? I don't think the car had heated seats. Is there a simple way to rebuild the exhaust? I would like to repair or repair the join? I don't think any of the bolts or gaskets are functioning correctly.

Is it an option to simply remove the O2 sensor? I might be misreading the post below.

I will check that out, Thanks Jim

I have no experience to add here, but some old posts from Mr. 510 suggest that they all interchange, with the possible exception of the WD21 starter not liking the VG33ER flexplate for some reason.

Are you looking for an upgrade to the adequate-but-not-great stock brakes, or has something happened that's got your brakes worse than they used to be? I had a knockdown dragout fight with the brakes on mine a while back. IIRC the master was leaking, so I replaced that and the rear flex hose between the frame and the axle, and the rear brakes just kinda quit working. I did a bunch of screwing around. Two-man bled, gravity bled, reverse bled, deleted the abs, put a 2WD Hardbody master in it (same piston size but no internal prop) with a Wilwood external prop because I didn't think the prop in the aftermarket Pathy masters was bleeding right, even replaced the booster. None of it helped. It bled normally, nothing was blocked, and the bleeders were at the top like they're meant to be. With the rear axle on jackstands, in drive, at idle, both feet on the brakes, the rears just spun. I was out of good ideas, so I bought a brake pressure gauge, blew out all the plumbing for the rears with compressed air, and tested pressure at each point down the line, bleeding at the gauge as I went. Right at the master, joiner in the driver's wheel well, where the ABS used to be, splitter at the rear axle. Might've put it at the caliper hoses too, don't remember if I had the fittings for that. The gauge showed full pressure every time (~1500 psi IIRC). With no obvious fault to chase, I hooked the calipers back up, bled them yet again, and somehow the rear brakes started working. I don't know why. All I can think is there was a gob of goo holding an air bubble in a union or something, which all of my prior bleeding had somehow failed to budge. I still hate everything about brake fluid. Hopefully yours is easier to deal with than mine was!

It's a SE with disk all the way around. Replace the master cylinder and all the calipers with new pads, also purchased a good bleeder. That leaves the brake booster and proportion valve.

Yours lived longer than mine did! I have no idea what that metal thing is for. It looks like some engineering went into it, so clearly they expected it to do something. All I know is, I did not include it or replicate it when I fabricobbled a metal clamshell for mine, and my tilt works normally, so it must be something else. The weight may not be helping the clamshell, especially cantilevered out like it is, but I suspect it's got more to do with people whacking their knee on the bulge that the weight sits in. Well, that and the poor design of the screw posts.

Front end swap Not able to upload photos

Thinking of wrapping some spring clamps around it for the time being. What is that metal plate for, which I'm convinced is providing the weight that causes these things to fail in the first place, does it have something to do with the tilt column?

Apparently they do interchange. I haven't done it but the wd22 and R50 using the VG have a smaller starter that is easier to replace.

You beat me too it I watched you post that haha! He's right make sure bleeder is up and make sure you didn't kink a hose. I did that to my rear when I first did the lift and didn't realize

KS will never cause a "stumble" all it will do is dial back the timing so it has less power and uses more fuel. To avoid pinging.

How is the master cylinder, are you getting good fluid flow to all 4 corners? Disc or drum brakes in the back? When I replaced the front calipers many years ago I had them swapped from left to right, so I couldn't bleed all the air... Make sure your bleeders are at the top of the caliper...

My 95 Pathfinder has weak brakes. Have changed all the calipers with new pads and blead the brakes good too, any ideas? Jim

check page 180 ef and ec - 8. it looks like to me its a connector between the main harness and ECM.

I am chasing down a no start condition, getting spark and fuel pressure ~40 psi. I recently replaced all 6 injectors with remans from rock auto, replaced a cracked knock sensor, replaced the IACV solenoid and harness, pulled off the old cracked tape on the fuel injector wiring harness, inspected the wires and rewrapped the harness. Got it all back together and now have the no start condition. I have the dizzy pulled and with the fuel pump fuse pulled and the coil wire shorted to ground, i can hear the injectors faintly clicking when i rotate the dist. so i could not get noid light working on #1, then pulled the #2 injector harness off (and even though i knew better that damn clip ended up below the lower intake manifold...grr i am unable to get my noid light to even flicker on either #2 or #1 inj harness. my noid light does work with 12V directly applied. So i am suspecting a bad ground condition and got as far as Ef & EC-78 box C and failed continuity check NG says to check joint connector-A 259M. please help me find that connector.

The solenoid on my 94 pathy VG30E was dead/open. I ordered a reman IACV for a sentra in the hopes that the solenoid would fit/work. You could just splice the 2 wires or order an sentra connector pigtail. these two items do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0H2VBQ2SX?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNNZQKG? it appears i have not earned enough cred to post pics yet

yes if its leaking before the O2 its going to affect the AFR. Anything between MAF and O2 should be a completely closed system. Try and patch that up and see how it runs. if its still off then I would check the base timing. I think its 15 degrees at idle with the lower throttle connector unplugged at operating temp. +/- 2 is fine but anything more than that is going to cause issues.

Is it possible that an exhaust leak would cause too much fuel to be dumped into the engine? The first time I tried to remove the starter, I had to undo 2-3 bolts on the exhaust after the header on the passenger side. That connection might be before an O2 sensor now that you mention it. I forgot to mention this is the 4WD 4 door variant of the SE-V6.

After 2.5 months its been amazing! The power is right where I want it, with not a crazy difference in fuel milage at partial throttle and its almost better when not in any boost. However, I've had a lot of issues with spark knock and after doing some digging it turns out the cheap Chinese dizzy I got from the part store wasn't sending the proper ECU information about timing.... who would've thought. After replacing the rotor and cap on a spare JY dizzy it seems to have fixed the issue and is hitting proper timing at proper boost. bit of a bummer actually but it seems to be more the cam sensor than the dizzy itself. lesson learned. Would I recommend this swap??? If you can afford the gas and the parts for the swap then absolutely!

1/2" and you can probably get away with like 1 foot worth. Also, unbolt the lower tubes from the upper plenum then you shouldn't have to cut them again next time. I did that on my Supercharger and it makes life WAY better the next time its gotta come off if you ever have to.

https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

Check either MAF connection, O2 sensors or base ignition timing. These are the big 3 that will make it run rich. Assuming (never assume) there's no vacuum leak and the injectors are good from factory. Rich is usually a sign of bad combustion or too much air so if it thinks its getting too much its gonna freak out or If it seems improper timing it will dump fuel to keep it safe. only fancy tools you'll need is a timing light and maybe a volt meter to check some wiring. otherwise you can fix this thing with basic tools. Welcome to the forum