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20angier

2001 SE Build list questions & links

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Hey all, I've got  a 2001 Pathy SE (RWD). I will do a 2in lift. The one plus to rwd is that i dont have to mess with cv joints. I have been talking with pathydude17 about my build list below.

 

 

The shocks have 26'' of extended travel, doing this so I dont have to extend my brake lines. If you want a longer shock (29) here are the links: 

(BRAKE LINE) https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18J1473-Professional-Hydraulic-Assembly/dp/B000C9G0O4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=2000+frontier+rear+brake+line&qid=1577944626&replacementKeywords=rear+brake+line&sr=8-1&vehicle=2000-67-883------------&vehicleName=2000+Nissan+Frontier&linkCode=sl1&tag=tylersmith0a-20&linkId=9c53e63130f80bea521fddc0a2666067&language=en_US

(LONGER 5100 shock) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FU6I6G?pf_rd_r=ZDSDNW52N6KC2VBQZWJV&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

 

GOOGLE DOCS with the links: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1EW3HZ7SSGSIaT4RBRRrkRrceZTYH2maWGEopqBGLRN0/edit?usp=sharing

 

My current issue is that I do not know what the exact bolts& parts are needed for the rear shocks. If anyone has the exact mounting part specs, that would be a great help.

 

Besides these, I am not sure what else I need for the lift, please let me know what else is needed.

 

 

I plan to slowly start doing the upgrades over the end of the year to next year. Im first gonna change the brakes & radiator hoses. 

FYI the pathy has been in my family since new. Rust free and it just hit a trail for the first time over the weekend. It has 137,xxx miles and it runs smooth except it tends to get hot with elevation. 

 

Check out my ig: @irvine.r50  for build updates & trail stuff

Edited by 20angier
more info

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When I did my lift back around 2008 I reused my shock mount bolts.

Some people need a camber kit for the front struts, which are basically eccentric lobe bolts for mounting to the knuckle.

I'd also suggest replacing the strut top mounts with new OEM mounts, if you are paying for this to be done. When they wear out they clank. If you do the work yourself and don't mind redoing you could roll the dice.

I bought my 01 in about 06 with 136k miles. I did my lift myself probably at 150k in 08. The only things I didn't do were assembling the spring on the strut (it was much too stiff) and the alignment. I drove it to 265k before it died. I never had to replace my strut top mount. But unless it was done by the previous owner, this is unusual service life.


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7 minutes ago, colinnwn said:

When I did my lift back around 2008 I reused my shock mount bolts.

Some people need a camber kit for the front struts, which are basically eccentric lobe bolts for mounting to the knuckle.

I'd also suggest replacing the strut top mounts with new OEM mounts, if you are paying for this to be done. When they wear out they clank. If you do the work yourself and don't mind redoing you could roll the dice.

I bought my 01 in about 06 with 136k miles. I did my lift myself probably at 150k in 08. The only things I didn't do were assembling the spring on the strut (it was much too stiff) and the alignment. I drove it to 265k before it died. I never had to replace my strut top mount. But unless it was done by the previous owner, this is unusual service life.


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added the camber kit o nthe list. forgot it. 

When you reused the bolts, what shocks did you use?

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Rancho 5000 sounds right. They were advertised as fitting the Pathfinder by Automotive Customizers, but they definitely didn't without some modification on my part. They also seemed cheaply made. But I can't argue that they didn't last good.

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2 minutes ago, colinnwn said:

Rancho 5000 sounds right. They were advertised as fitting the Pathfinder by Automotive Customizers, but they definitely didn't without some modification on my part. They also seemed cheaply made. But I can't argue that they didn't last good.

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the bilsteins supposedly need some adjusting to be fit, but they are good quality 

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That list looks right so far. Ditto on the OEM strut mount. Bilstein good choice. My list:

OEM Replacement Parts

Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2

Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2

Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2

 

If you’re not a manual, you should get the power valves done as well.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

 

 

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27 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

That list looks right so far. Ditto on the OEM strut mount. Bilstein good choice. My list:

OEM Replacement Parts

Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2

Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2

Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2

 

If you’re not a manual, you should get the power valves done as well.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

 

 

I added the bearing, seat, stop to the list all from rockauto. 

 

My mine is at 137xxx, but it was "rebuilt" at around 100,xxx with new parts for an upfresh. I should be fine without redoing the power valves. What is the risk if I do not get them done?

 I updated the list with different type of 5100 shock, and coils

Thanks for the help. 

Edited by 20angier

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If the power valves weren't loctited in during the rebuild, eventuality they will fall out, suck into a cylinder, bang around for a while before they are ejected.

The end result is damage to the cylinder wall and valves which will cause oil consumption, low cylinder pressure, and inability to pass emissions. You'll get to have another rebuild.

This is a famous problem for these engines and should have been addressed by a competent rebuilder.

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14 minutes ago, colinnwn said:

If the power valves weren't loctited in during the rebuild, eventuality they will fall out, suck into a cylinder, bang around for a while before they are ejected.

The end result is damage to the cylinder wall and valves which will cause oil consumption, low cylinder pressure, and inability to pass emissions. You'll get to have another rebuild.

This is a famous problem for these engines and should have been addressed by a competent rebuilder.

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i'll check my log book about to confirm if this was done. 

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Yep, despite the otherwise pristine nature of the engine in a truck I bought new, it was screw#5 that cost me that engine.

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It’s been a consensus on NPORA for some time now that you should probably get the OEM strut mount. There have been some failures of other brands & the importance of the part & difficulty switching it out warrant spending just a but extra for OEM on that part.

 

My OEM parts list:

Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2

Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2

Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2

Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2

infinitipartsdeal.com

 

 

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9 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

It’s been a consensus on NPORA for some time now that you should probably get the OEM strut mount. There have been some failures of other brands & the importance of the part & difficulty switching it out warrant spending just a but extra for OEM on that part.

 

My OEM parts list:

Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2

Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2

Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2

Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2

infinitipartsdeal.com

 

 

thanks will look there. makes sense that oem is better. For the shocks, I found ones with a 12mm mount, i know r50s come with a 12mm many. Many use the 5100 with a 16mm mount and use spacers & washers to make it fit. Do you think the one i found will work?

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There are better resources than me on that kind of info.

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