MrJim Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Hey Everyone! Sorry I have not been around much lately. I have been on here there, lurking in the shadows. I took the Pathfinder to run some errands today and I love that truck. I have a substantial amount of money that might be coming my way soon. If it does, then I will need some immediate pulling the engine to have it repaired. Its runs strong still, but its smoking and tapping a bit more than I prefer. Here are my options over the next few months, I want that front axle GONE. I need some good basic info about installing a SAS, including best axle to use. I need to pull the engine for a high power rebuild, or possibly be upgrading the engine to small block ford, chevy, or dodge engine. I have a locker for the rear axle to install. As you can see there is a lot to do. Let me know if anyone want to to help in anyway, even if its just to direct me to the best parts. I want this rig to make a seriously strong appearance at this year's MrJim Run. Open to suggestions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 (edited) I suggest taking a look at the Ronin Wheelers website. That is where a majority of nissan SAS conversions have taken place in my experience. Some of the main group there do them very often and have a whole slew of input. But just as with this site, its good to search around first. Good luck with the project. Edited July 21, 2011 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 yeah the colorado nissan guys are awesome. You might also want to check out Nissannut's (Barry) forum called Nissan Trail Riders SAS section. It's got lots of build threads to read : http://www.nissantrailriders.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=10&sid=0d5bd579ab0190ceccdabbc90b08ea7c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 Talk to Steevo with Rugged Rocks. He has done a SAS and tried and tested a few things. Let us know if you need any help Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 Talk to Steevo with Rugged Rocks. He has done a SAS and tried and tested a few things. Let us know if you need any help Jim! I would love some help when the time comes. I am waiting on some money that is due my way (might be another month or two), but pulling my engine and having it redone is #1 on my list, and at the same time I want to get a SAS done up front. My front end is so out of whack that its killing my tires and I don't have the height I want up there either. I dont just want to stick some used engine in there, because my was rebuilt and is very strong, but it has issues that need addressing internally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 20, 2011 Share Posted July 20, 2011 (edited) As a cost thing, both a new engine and SAS are going to take money and time. You might want to check your centerlink and see if it needs to be rebuild(Calmini IIRC). Or do you just not want to piss with it? Oh, you might want to look into the 3.3 swap. Edited July 20, 2011 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) I'm also of the mind that if you're going to pull the engine and spend the cash on labor anyway, you should just pick up a crate 3.3L engine and do the swap with that, A ton more HP and probably near the same cash when all is said and done for what you're getting yourself into. As for the SAS, remember one thing, when you put a mid to late 80's axle under the front end, and do the conversion, don't forget that it will DRIVE like a mid 80's axle. The consensus from everything I've read from every SAS is that the ride is not as cushy anymore. Just be aware. Oh and yeah, Nige brought up a good listing. Barry,(Nissannut) has dont a TON of 3 link set ups and has done great conversions. Edited July 21, 2011 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 As a cost thing, both a new engine and SAS are going to take money and time. You might want to check your centerlink and see if it needs to be rebuild(Calmini IIRC). Or do you just not want to piss with it? Oh, you might want to look into the 3.3 swap. I am thinking along the lines of not wanting to piss with it. It is lifted beyond what it is designed for up front and its reaking havoc on my steering and tires. I am ready to do a SAS so I can have a cleaner lift up front. As for the 3.3 swap, I am very happy with the 3.0 power. Mine just needs to be refreshed again. The last time there was major engine work on it was in 2001, so its about time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 I'm also of the mind that if you're going to pull the engine and spend the cash on labor anyway, you should just pick up a crate 3.3L engine and do the swap with that, A ton more HP and probably near the same cash when all is said and done for what you're getting yourself into. As for the SAS, remember one thing, when you put a mid to late 80's axle under the front end, and do the conversion, don't forget that it will DRIVE like a mid 80's axle. The consensus from everything I've read from every SAS is that the ride is not as cushy anymore. Just be aware. Oh and yeah, Nige brought up a good listing. Barry,(Nissannut) has dont a TON of 3 link set ups and has done great conversions. I wonder what they are comparing the 80's style drive to, because mine has been cranked up fully to try to level with lifted rear. Mine has the Calmini torsion bars and they allow you to crank it a bit higher, but everything else is so stressed like cv joints that its making my ride stiff and unstable anyway. I think that a SAS would only make things better than they are at the moment. So are we talking about the full size Jeep Wagoneer? Does that have to be shortened at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 (edited) The axle I was referring to is out of a Jeep Wagoneer. Most of the donor axles come from mid to late 80's jeep wagoneers. That was what I was getting at. As soon as you swap over to a Solid axle up front, I don't think it matters on how good a job you did, the ride is like a truck and not as smooth as with IFS. Well I should say an IFS with the steering upgraded to get rid of all the slop from lifting it. Anything is probably an improvent to that. The WMS on the jeep axle is very close to our stock WMS rears. 62.5 comes to mind for some reason, but I'm not gonna dig to verify. Its all posted on Ronin. They even have an Axle page there. If you've got a ton of money to spend, maybe a coilover system would be better like Steeevo. Apparently the driving manners are pretty dialed in and its good for a Daily Driver. I think he used a Toyota axle. Edited July 21, 2011 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 To help with the axle thing 1974-1979 Wagoneer, front and rear dana 44's (some 1974-1975 had drum brakes) (rear 44 is offset to clear the fuel tank) (front is passenger side drop)Wrong side drop. 1980-1983 Wagoneer, front dana 44 and rear AMC 20 (it is NOT the weak 2-piece axle type like the CJ's) (front is drivers drop and remains drivers drop until the end of production in 1991)Will work under pathfinder 1984-1985 Grand Wagoneer, front dana 44 and rear AMC 20 (front 44 has a vacuum axle disconnect, try to stay away from this one, swapping it out or removing it and changing the axle shafts is an easy fix though)Avaoid because of vacume disconect 1986-1991 Grand Wagoneer, front and rear dana 44 (rear dana 44 is mostly centered - just a little offset) Best choice for pathfinder SAS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 If you are interested in staying Nissan-powered, take a look at PAECO industries. They make stroker kits for the VG engines, as well as full custom engine builds. They are not inexpensive, but being able to avoid all the custom fab work for an engine swap it looks like it will actually be less expensive, plus it keeps the weight of the truck down. Try Stroker Kits and Engines If you want more power than that consider a VH45 swap, user tmorgan4 has done a lot of work on an R50 that applies at least for the engine/transmission part of the project. There is a writeup on roninwheelers.com as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18663&st=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 If you are interested in staying Nissan-powered, take a look at PAECO industries. They make stroker kits for the VG engines, as well as full custom engine builds. They are not inexpensive, but being able to avoid all the custom fab work for an engine swap it looks like it will actually be less expensive, plus it keeps the weight of the truck down. Try Stroker Kits and Engines If you want more power than that consider a VH45 swap, user tmorgan4 has done a lot of work on an R50 that applies at least for the engine/transmission part of the project. There is a writeup on roninwheelers.com as well. http://npora.ipbhost...opic=18663&st=0 Okay, that is way more I would want to spend. I might end up getting a ring job and my heads redone, but in the meantime, does anyone know how different the 1995 INFINITI J30 3.0L 6-cyl Engine Code [A] VG30DE engine is from the 94 3.0 Pathfinder Engine? This one is $320 locally with 85k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 If you are interested in staying Nissan-powered, take a look at PAECO industries. They make stroker kits for the VG engines, as well as full custom engine builds. They are not inexpensive, but being able to avoid all the custom fab work for an engine swap it looks like it will actually be less expensive, plus it keeps the weight of the truck down. Try Stroker Kits and Engines If you want more power than that consider a VH45 swap, user tmorgan4 has done a lot of work on an R50 that applies at least for the engine/transmission part of the project. There is a writeup on roninwheelers.com as well. http://npora.ipbhost...opic=18663&st=0 Yeah, that is beautiful, but it is beyond my budget for awhile. I basically want to rebuild my engine and go to a simple SAS swap, though I would love to have a multilink suspension SAS, its probably going to be much simpler than that initially. I figure i will get the axle in place, geared, and working. Then later possible upgrade it from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 To help with the axle thing 1974-1979 Wagoneer, front and rear dana 44's (some 1974-1975 had drum brakes) (rear 44 is offset to clear the fuel tank) (front is passenger side drop)Wrong side drop. 1980-1983 Wagoneer, front dana 44 and rear AMC 20 (it is NOT the weak 2-piece axle type like the CJ's) (front is drivers drop and remains drivers drop until the end of production in 1991)Will work under pathfinder 1984-1985 Grand Wagoneer, front dana 44 and rear AMC 20 (front 44 has a vacuum axle disconnect, try to stay away from this one, swapping it out or removing it and changing the axle shafts is an easy fix though)Avaoid because of vacume disconect 1986-1991 Grand Wagoneer, front and rear dana 44 (rear dana 44 is mostly centered - just a little offset) Best choice for pathfinder SAS. Hey Bonez! This is good info. So you are saying it would be best to change both front and rear axles? Not just the front? Don't any have matching gear ratios so that I can keep my locker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 (edited) Okay, that is way more I would want to spend. I might end up getting a ring job and my heads redone, but in the meantime, does anyone know how different the 1995 INFINITI J30 3.0L 6-cyl Engine Code [A] VG30DE engine is from the 94 3.0 Pathfinder Engine? This one is $320 locally with 85k miles. The engine in the J30 is a dual cam motor. Its the same motor found in the 90-96 300zx. There is a build thread of a guy who stuffed on into the engine bay, and its turboed. I will try and find the link and post it. Here it is... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28504&st=0 Edited July 22, 2011 by 5523Pathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Hey Bonez! This is good info. So you are saying it would be best to change both front and rear axles? Not just the front? Don't any have matching gear ratios so that I can keep my locker? I stole that chunk from another post I made elsewhere, I would leave the rear axle you have, and just do the front. As for the gear question, you can go with 4:88 in the front and get the 4:90 gears out of a xtera. That is what i did. If you want to spend more money you can get 5:13 for the nissan rear end and the dana 44 but will cost a fair amount of money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Don't know if this has come up yet, but if you want to keep the stock engine, you might try what these guys did. Only problem was they had to run it on premium. http://www.motoiq.com/projects/project_nissan_pathfinder.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrJim Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 Don't know if this has come up yet, but if you want to keep the stock engine, you might try what these guys did. Only problem was they had to run it on premium. http://www.motoiq.co...pathfinder.aspx Yeah, that's a good site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxracerjason Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 I might be spending more than most after I bought a 0 mile VG33 from Feltons Nissan wrecking then did a bunch of add ons and now I'm buying parts to make it supercharged but I beleive the instant power it will create somewhere around 250 crank after NISTUNE at UP Garage will be worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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