ejin4499 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Ok so I've been searching around about this knock sensor relocation to the top of the intake manifold. 1. its mostly people with an OBDII system who don't want to take apart there manifold to replace the stock one. 2. they are using a maxima KS and KS harness I assume but can't confirm that this is due to cost of parts I am wondering is this worth doing on a WD21 and since I don't have my current KS hooked up could I just use my existing wiring and a new Pathfinder KS on the top of the intake. Or is this just something that OBDII people are doing cause there ECU utilize there KS's more then our ECU does and leaving mine disconnected will be just fine. FYI no CEL is on at this time with it disconected. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 MaritimeMan relocated the stock KS to the bell housing, close to the motor where he drilled and tapped a hole. It seemed to work fine... Getting to the stock location is a lot of work, I'll post a picture of the actual location later if I can find it. You do want to have the KS set up, but I wouldn't put it on the intake; the closer to the cylinders the better. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 MaritimeMan relocated the stock KS to the bell housing, close to the motor where he drilled and tapped a hole. It seemed to work fine... Getting to the stock location is a lot of work, I'll post a picture of the actual location later if I can find it. You do want to have the KS set up, but I wouldn't put it on the intake; the closer to the cylinders the better. B Hey thanks for the response. Don't worry about the pics I've had the upper and lower intakes off a couple times. Its not that big of a deal once you reroute the two small radiator hoses with longer hose. I like the idea of putting it on the bell housing. Do you know if he used the existing loom or rewired a new one. Also did he have to take apart the intake to get a drill in there or just used a really long extension? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 You are welcome and ok, one less thing for me to forget to do... Here is his post. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=574&view=findpost&p=3834 He was swapping out motors IIRC so that suggests he used the stock set up and rerouted it. I'm guessing the intake was off... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 Can't speak for the VG30 but when the knock sensors were bad on the Q45 we had the thing couldn't get out of it's own way !! Couldn't even break the tires lose power braking it. I guess the computer really retards the ignition when they are not working. When I replaced them and the harness the Q felt like a new car, went from Yugo acceleration to feeling like a Corvette!! Could really tell it had 317 HP (factory under rated at 287 HP)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 Can't speak for the VG30 but when the knock sensors were bad on the Q45 we had the thing couldn't get out of it's own way !! Couldn't even break the tires lose power braking it. I guess the computer really retards the ignition when they are not working. When I replaced them and the harness the Q felt like a new car, went from Yugo acceleration to feeling like a Corvette!! Could really tell it had 317 HP (factory under rated at 287 HP)! LOL thats what I heard. I don't think the vg30 has the same problem though I've been running with mine disconnected and haven't had a problem or an ses/cel light. I was able to reconnect the sensor to the harness without taking off the lower intake so I think I'll skip this project in deferment to the dubious wisdom of the Nissan engineers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APACHECHIEF13 Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I know this post is old but is there any pic on where to unplug the knock sensor harness? I found where the main harness plug is but cant locate the end of main harness where the knock sensor harness plugs in at. I found a wright up on it but cant find it anymore I read you can splice into the wire at main harness and add a ground wire to it and it will work but I would just like to plug and play so everything looks clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 (edited) You cannot access the plug that attaches to the knock sensor itself, and the other end of that harness is located in the bank of plugs where your injector harness plugs in. If you check the fsm there is a pin out of each plug. That will be your best bet for a clean look is to re route from there. Either repin the harness and swap in your own wire or cut and splice. In my honest opinion though, pulling the plenum isn't that bad...and once you factor in wiring time for the relocation, you might as well just pull the plenum and do it right. Either way will work, but it's only going to take an extra hour or 2 (depending on your skill) to do the job right. Might as well? Edited December 4, 2014 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APACHECHIEF13 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 I don't have a clean work space so I didn't want to pull everything in my drive way do to its all mud lol. I will do it right this spring when it worms up and drys up also. I'm selling it anyways so I didn't want to spend to much time on it. I just want it running so i can sale it to my brother. thank for the help. I can do it in 3 hours tops unless something gos wrong lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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