MY1PATH Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Take 1 When I did my disc swap I pulled the 3rd member and put an extra friction disc on each side. I had to remove the spring disc and replace it with a spring plate because I could not get it to stay in place with so little room left on the side gear. It gripped allot better but I could hear my tires on turns. It also proved to be dangerous on wet days when making particular turn near work with a steel transition plate coming down off of a bridge. PITA to pull them back out, quite time consuming. I was gonna try again but lacked the motivation to remove brakes and axles etc to do the job... Take 2 Today Er, yesterday, I pulled my axles for other mods so I decided to go for it again since I was 1/2 way there anyway. I earlier this week I machined about ~0.012" off of two friction discs, thats about as deep as the friction grooves (I think They were originally ~0.05") It may not seem like much but its about 20% less spring preload than I had previously added. We shall see in the next few days if thats reduced enough.... Stock LSD The Stock LSD arrangement on wd21 and d21 Patfinders and Pickups consists of 6 friction plates & 5 friction discs alternating and a spring disc and spring plate to keep a preload on them. Later model H233B axles had a lack of alternating pattern or even a thick spacer to replace some of the friction parts. Those versions offered much less traction. Edited September 24, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Getting Started Disconnecting the brake hard lines, parking brake, draining the oil and sliding out the axle is easy enough. Next you unbolt the drive shaft and remove it or tie it up. (I just stuffed it above the muffler) Now comes the fun part, remove all the nuts (or bolts, depending on the year) on the 3rd member. All the weight is in the axle so it won't fall back on you just yet. Now pull it out, Its about 75~80LBs of awkwardly balanced odd shaped metal... ...and thats what makes it so fun. Prep Work Clean the bearing caps and adjusting rings throughly. Mark along the slide adjuster (metal clip screwed to the cap) all the way down across the adjusting ring. These marks are very important, (so make sure they don't come off) they will allow you to re-assemble the diff with no adjustment required. (factory backlash stays in tact) Now remove the bearing caps, keep left and right in separate locations. You can slide the axles into the diff to help with leverage and to keep it from rolling around. The adjusting rings will pull out with a little tug note the number of threads they are in before pulling. Keep left and right in separate locations. Pull the Differential out of the carrier, the ring gear makes a good gripping point. Remove bearing cups and again place left and right separate. Dissemble Ok I forgot to take pictures here There are 8 bolts holding the differential halves together (the smaller bolts) Bend down the locking tabs and remove the bolts working equally in a circle. Do not remove any bolt all the way until all bolts are equally loose. You can use a larger wrench on the Ring gear bolts to pull against when loosening the smaller bolts. This helps allot. Once all the bolts are out you can lift the ring gear half away from the remaining half. Modify Make your desired changes. Both sides need to be identical. Dip each disc and plate in LSD gear oil before stacking "Take 1" Is actually good for allot of enthusiasts especially if you have larger tires (32x11.50, 33"+...) Getting parts can be cheap as a dedicated person could probably disassemble and remove some LSD parts @ a JY in about 2-3 hours. (no re-assembly and no brake bleeding required so its better than working on your own ) "Take 2" Is (still un-tested(will update))... Re-Assemble If you are keeping your Friction Plate Guides but a glob of thick grease in each one to keep them from falling off during Re-assembly Make sure that your outer most friction disc or spring disc stays engaged with the gear or it will pinch and get chewed up when you drive. Make sure your 4 spider gears still have their cup washers on them when you set them into the differential. If your stack is too thick to bolt down you can use a 5mm longer bolt. NO LONGER. Clean and dry threads on bolts and differential. Lower ring gear half onto the rest of the differential and set lock tabs (if you can find new / usable ones) over holes. Apply permanent lock-tite to bolt threats and install tightening them all equally to 45ft lbs. (you can use the wrench and ring bolt trick again) Fold over lock tabs if you used them. Re-install Clean and dry bolts and threads for bearing caps. Put correct bearing cups on each bearing and set differential in the 3rd member. Put correct adjusting ring on each side at about 90 degrees counter clockwise from your marks. Put correct bearing cap on each side and install each bolt with lock-tite. If you are using the right tool tighten bolts to 75ft lbs now right tool link http://ruggedrocksof...ol-p-35919.html If you are using a wrong tool tighten bolts to 10ft lbs and re-torque to 75ft lbs after using wrong tool. Rotate the adjusting ring on each side until it lines up with your mark. Most people use punches or socket extensions to do this (wrong tool). If you are using the wrong tool DO NOT swing hard. You want rapid gentle hammer stokes. It will get there and less damage will happen.(as in none). Now Re-torque to 75ftlbs if you need to and install slide clips in back their potions. Clean and lock-tite these little bolts and torque to 24ft lbs. Finishing up The 3rd member comes out easy enough with the sway bar in place but it may fight your grip trying to re- install. I just unbolted the axle side and tucked it into the spring. clean up the axle housing and the the 3rd member. Mine had a durable gasket material on the 3rd member side on it so I gently cleaned it without damaging it and added a little bit of sealant to help the seal. Slide it in place (oh fun) and install nuts or bolts. Follow sealant instructions for tightening and final torque to 24 ft lbs. Re-install axles, fill oil, install brakes and bleed brakes, dive shaft, parking brake cables etc... Edited March 14, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 13, 2011 Author Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Ok 1/2 QT low on oil but all the discs were soaked prior to install (forgot to mention that in the writeup). Like last time, I can hear the tires when I turn but not as much. I'll get to test it on that turn on the way to work tomorrow and see... I'm sure it will be wet. May-haps some LSD additive will reduce it to my desired level. I'll try it out at Elbe before I even consider taking it apart again. Edited March 14, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 Cool. Nice write up. Hope the new configuration is good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) Compared to last time take 2 is allot more tolerable on the street with 31's and the traction will get fully tested at Elbe next week. As stated take 2 is 20% less shim than take one. Take 3 will be 50% less shim than take 1 I'm trying to go for a little less tire wear but hopefully it will still drive off a jack And its quite noisy (chirp chirp chirp) in polished concrete garages like SeaTac Airport. Edited March 27, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 Well take 3 is finished and very successful; It still drives off of a jack but the chirping and hop skipping on tight turns has been eliminated. David and I re-stacked the discs in the same order as take 2 but the inner most disc and outermost plate have been shaved down by 0.015" to allow a litte more slip than take 2. Now I can drive all winter and not worry about my tries wearing out to fast. I think he as a video of the jack test... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Have you thought of measuring the breakaway torque, as some sort of quantitative parameter? I guess it would be easier with the carrier out though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 24, 2011 Author Share Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) We had planned to make a measuring tool that bolts in place of the wheel and mount a torque wrench to it. But I don't think it will be made any time soon, If at all. Supposedly anything over 350 ftlb break way range is going to behave as locked on 31" or smaller tires. I was probably at that number with take 2 and above it with take 1. I Can only guess that I am at maybe ~300 ftlbs break away torque. Stock WD 21 is supposed to be around 260-280. Edited September 24, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 I Can only guess that I am at maybe ~300 ftlbs break away torque. Stock WD 21 is supposed to be around 260-280. I'm pretty sure that I read that not all years had the same torque spec. I might have to look that up again... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 28, 2011 Author Share Posted September 28, 2011 (edited) I'm pretty sure that I read that not all years had the same torque spec. I might have to look that up again... B Yes B. But I believe the above to be a tolerance range. Edited September 28, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 Yes B. But I believe the above to be a tolerance range. 260-289 ft-lb in the 91 FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 I believe that the 87-95 H233 LSD units were in the 260-280 lb range. Each iteration after that had progressively weaker breakaway torque until it got all the way down below 100 lbs in the later Frontiers. That turned out to be practically useless. I have lifted a rear wheel with both the good LSD and a Lock-Right and even though the LSD is practically locked, the mechanical locker was much better. I could have avoided some body damage if I had just gone with the locker in the first place. PS. - B, I have a home for your Lock-Right if you have finally given up on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 28, 2011 Share Posted September 28, 2011 LOL Bastage!! I am currently repairing my water damaged eaves and roof before the rains come. This year's priority is definitely not the truck. Hopefully next year... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chadius Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 How would I get my own disc to insert? And how would you guys consider I clean the LSD? Just wipe it and put LSD gear oil everywhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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