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Installing New CV-Axles


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#41 OFFLINE   DavefromOZ

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Posted 04 October 2010 - 04:27 AM

haha just spent the weekend replacing BOTH of my CV axles :S
didnt think to check for a tut before i did it :/

i did mine basically the same except i had to take off my front
shockies as well because it was a bit squeezy,
great tutorial!

Should have given us a shout Daniel, I did both mine last year in a few hours.

#42 OFFLINE   Big_Jim_Swade

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Posted 23 September 2011 - 03:03 PM

I did mine last night, on my 1992 Pathfinder SE. Just to confirm, I didn't remove the brake caliper or tie rod end. Just removed the shock and the 4 bolts holding the upper ball joint and that allowed enought room to get the cv axle out and the new one in. It took an hour on the first one and 40 minutes on the second one. Got new CV Axle's from rockauto.com for $113 delivered for both of them.

#43 OFFLINE   OldSlowReliable

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Posted 13 July 2012 - 09:20 PM

Just some quick info-
The twelve point bolts on the shaft required a 12mm socket

I only found it necessary to undo the autolocking snapring, and the upper balljoint to remove, waiting for parts to come in so not certain if they will go in the same.

If you can get the shaft to lock to the hub, you can put the lug nuts back on and put a small floorjack/2x4 between one and the floor at 3/9 o'clock to halt the shaft for easy bolt removal, also works for cranking on the hub bolts

I'll update with any other tips/tricks when I get the shipment in to finish my front end. I've ordered two duralast remans with a lifetime warranty for 57 a pop, $100 core charge. Autozone said they should take half a day to arrive, so hopefully tomorrow.

First side removal took about an hour, but I'm familiar with the hub n such, and waited for some pb blaster to settle in, second side removal was about 35 minutes, not including time to put it on stands and take the wheel off, as I put the entire front end up first thing.

#44 OFFLINE   OldSlowReliable

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 11:12 AM

For anyone else who likes replacing bolts & such as long as you have them off, here are the stats on the ones I replaced this time around-

Balljoint 4 upper mounting bolts- m8x1.25 25mm

Auto Hub Bolts- m8x1.25 65mm (apx 65)

Anyone who can't find the auto hub bolts, here is a site that sells them, also in SS http://www.mcmaster....-screws/=if4h7r

Edited by OldSlowReliable, 15 July 2012 - 07:56 PM.


#45 OFFLINE   enkrypt3d

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Posted 27 April 2013 - 11:36 AM

If I'm replacing all the rubber bushings in the front end, would there be any combined labor savings by swapping out new front axles? I found that I might as well replace the axles instead of the CV boots as its the same amount of labor...... hopefully my question makes sense.... thanks guys! The dealer quoted me around $600 to replace UCA & LCA bushings, Strut Rod Bushings & all ball joints so I kind of figured it'd be pretty easy to just swap out the axles while they're in there right? Thx



#46 OFFLINE   enkrypt3d

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Posted 27 April 2013 - 04:36 PM

http://www.cardone.c...d=666051&p=rock

 

I ordered these - has anyone had any experience with them? And are they ok? For $50 each u cant go wrong really......



#47 OFFLINE   Trogdor636

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Posted 27 April 2013 - 05:47 PM

I have one Cardone and one Napa (which may be a Cardone?) on my truck (another screwed up Rockauto order I've had) and they've been fine through some pretty decent wheelin lately. You might as well get them installed same time, I did them when I was doing my ball joints as well.

#48 OFFLINE   enkrypt3d

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Posted 27 April 2013 - 05:52 PM

Yea I went to talk to the dealer about it and the tech said that it'd be about an extra hour or so .... expecting to pay around $1k with all the bushings, axles toe links and center links...... if this doesn't fix all the noises and ........ I'll be really surprised and not happy! ha at least the dealership is willing to give me a loaner car! waiting for the axles and steering components to come in.......



#49 OFFLINE   enkrypt3d

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Posted 03 May 2013 - 09:24 PM

Well the shop found that every seal is leaking and needs to be replaced......  upper oil pan gasket, lower oil pan gaskets, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, new timing belt & water pump... (engine compression tested and does not hold pressure)...... he sent me pics and it wasn't pretty even though the oil isn't dripping, the entire engine is soaked.... 



#50 OFFLINE   BrianG

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 07:13 PM

New Guy from Utah is going to tackle both CV axles. It started with a pulsing feeling in the brake pedal.  I knew this as the rotors beginning to warp and they needed changing.  My pathfinder has 148k miles on the clock and I thought it was about time for new rotors and pads.  I pulled the wheel off and started looking around and noticed some grease splatters in the wheel well. Crap!   I looked at the CV boot and it had a 2in tear in it. Crap! I looked at the other side and same thing.. Crap... I ordered two new complete CV axles from O'reilly's.  I'm not worried about the job just a little confused about getting them out from under the truck.  I've read in the service manual that I should remove the bolts from the transverse link fixing nut and bolts, the ones that attach to the under body.  This is to allow more room to pull the CV axle out.  Now I've also read in another forum where they recommend removing the three bolts holding the ball joint on the lower part of the knuckle spindle. I've also read one guy stating that all he did was turn the wheel all the way to in one direction to wiggle the axle out.  I don't want to disconnect anything that might not go back together easily.  So, which is the easier and recommended procedure?






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