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Kingman

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Everything posted by Kingman

  1. That's usually an indication that the alternator is going bad. Those are the lights that come on when low voltage is sensed. It'd be a good idea to have it checked before he tears the front of the motor down.
  2. A/B-Series is from '84-'3/87. W-Series engines are from '4/87 on. A/B vs. W has nothing to do with injection type. '86+ blocks all interchange since that's when they started building the (W)D21s. You can swap an earlier one but you have to modify the motor mounts to match the block bosses. And yeah, the single cam and dual cam motors don't interchange heads. They do cranks and pumps and stuff like that with some work.
  3. Don't think so. But different arms wouldn't affect the CV issue since they are attached to the subframe that needs to be dropped down (SFD drop kit) if you want to go any higher.
  4. I've had this issue before and it ended up being a fusible link at the battery. Mine all looked fine at a glance but we're corroded inside. I replaced them all at once and have not had the issue since. This was 5 years ago or more.
  5. Sounds like it. Have never had an issue with Spicer U-joints and I've installed many... also consider they make the factory parts for most rear wheel drive trucks. Nowadays factory Spicer parts with 200k miles on them are still perfectly fine.
  6. I've had my '88 for almost nine years now and my '04 for a year and a half.
  7. Make sure the frame isn't bent.
  8. Swap coils around see if the miss follows or doesn't. If it does you have a bad coil out of the box. Not unheard of. If it doesn't, could be a broken plug (oopsies on your part) or bad wiring somewhere in the harness. Could be a bad injector as well, or wiring there again. Hopefully not a mechanical issue.
  9. My '04 will kick down to 2nd gear until around 68mph but it tachs out pretty quick and shifts into 3rd
  10. Did you replace the fusible links when you replaced the battery ends?
  11. Should always always always leave the torque converter with the trans. Reason being there's a seal for the input shaft that easily gets damaged when removing or installing. If it gets torn it'll leak live a siv. That and it gives that much more room to work with.
  12. I've cleaned tons of drive by wire throttle bodies and haven't had an issue other than the occasional re-learn on Toyotas. If you can consistently change the idle with spray then you definitely have a leak that needs to be addressed. The VQs also have an issue with the IACV going bad causing idle issues and sometimes shorting out the computer not long after. But first things first...
  13. Loose tie rod ends, loose wheel bearings, worn rack bushings, lack of caster all can cause the problem. Since caster is not typically adjustable on strut type set ups, some shops will use camber to point the tires "up the hill". Basically close to positive or positive camber on the left and negative camber on the right. \ \ That being said, that tire in particular is known to cause handling/wandering issues. I frequently see that happen especially on large SUVs or large vans.
  14. You need a controller that will run two speed fans. Or a single speed controller and just use low or high speed. Google "icebox fan controller" and see if you like that.
  15. That could be. Some pistons are much bigger than the pad surface so it's possible the seals push out around then retract.
  16. We're they cheap shoes? They can cause clicking due to not being perfectly flat allowing the shoes to shift a little side to side. Also even though the drums are new too many come right out of the box out of round causing more issues with noise and pedal pulsation. If you can stick a flat head I'm between the backing plate and shoes to stick some lube on all of the contact ppints that'd be a great idea. When you adjust the brakes up, best to do it with the wheel on. One click at a time until you feel some resistance from the pads dragging. Not too tight or they'll overheat and prematurely crack.
  17. You are correct and yes it makes no sense. But why then does the brake pedal fade only with a direct shot to the calipers (ABS bypassed)? Block the lines off between ABS and master the pedal is solid, and after ABS before the calipers the pedal is solid. Replaced the calipers and the pedal is solid. Re-installed the old calipers and the pedal fades. Obviously air in the system is not a factor. It's not the OP's problem more than likely but it's a curiously confounding question. I am going to ask thoughn the calipers aren't on upside down are they ? If the bleeder is on the bottom all of the air will never flush out.
  18. It sounds unlogical yes, however it's happened to me and customers' vehicles before. Only with twin piston calipers so far.
  19. Should always replace calipers in pairs. If one is bad the other is usually not far behind. Too many times replacing just one causes problems. Collapsed brake hoses definitely can cause a fake caliper issue however. An east way to tell is pump the brakes up and Crack the bleeder on the caliper. If there's a burst of pressurized fluid that means the fluid wasn't able to return through the hose. Soft pedal sounds like air, or a bad caliper - they can bypass fluid inside without actually leaking.
  20. They are driven in until they can't go any further. There's a lip they bottom out on.
  21. I had a bad vibration in my '04 that took getting the tires balanced 3 times plus aligning it myself at work before it was completely stopped. Total toe was .27° off which is way too much, in fact it started feathering the tires which also added to the vibration.
  22. Could try and fish it out through the drain plug. Or pull the dip stick tube from the block, cut the very end of the dip stick off, and fish it out through the drain plug. Or pull the pan. This happened to me and it ended up getting cut off by the crank...

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