moto-m

Found a reputable dude that will take the windshield off and reinstall when I am ready, all for $100.

I think this picture explains it.

My windshield has some rust around the top edge. Looks like I am going to have to take the windshield off to repair it correctly. I am a little confused on what part #72616 in the pictures below is? Yes I see that it is a seal that goes around the windshield but don't you use urethane adhesive for window installations? Do I need this seal as well?

I still haven't dived into this yet and have been driving it with the noise. I did just take the time to read through the strut/spring removal/installation instructions in the repair manual and noticed that there is a notch in the upper spring seat that the manual says to make sure it faces outwards (towards the sides of the vehicle). Well I took a look at mine and they are both facing exactly the opposite, towards the engine compartment. Pretty sure this is my problem, just hope it hasn't damaged anything yet. Hoping that I will be able to leave the struts on the vehicle, jack it up, remove the wheels, use a spring compressor and then just turn the mounts to the correct orientation. Hope this can help others when replacing struts and springs.

I was doing a little research and I believe the top spring seats have to be oriented correctly? Could this cause the knocking sound?

I believe there is only one way the struts can be assembled, correct? Yes I should have been more clear. I have read the bad reviews about the KYB mounts/bearings. Couldn't find anything about the Gabriels but I know they make a lot of OEM stuff and tried to save some money.

They were Gabriel strut mounts/bearings, not KYB.

Yes the bearings were replaced.

Just recently had my local shop install new KYB struts, shocks, and strut mounts. It was not there before, but now I have a loud clunking noise when turning either direction. I have been having some steering issues before and after the new struts went in but did not start hearing the noise until after. My steering wheel seems to feel really loose and like I have to turn it farther than before to turn. Sometimes it feels like it is skipping, like the truck doesn't start turning until I have turned it pretty far. I can be going straight but the steering wheel is turned pretty severely in one direction. Weird part is sometimes it will be turned in the opposite direction while going straight again. I know I need to get this checked out soon but does anybody have any idea what it could be? Bad rack and pinion is my only guess. Would this account for the noise as well?

Actually looks like the stock tubing is 1.75". Think I will go with the Magnaflow 12280 which has dual 2" and single 2.5".

Would it be easier to go with 2" or 2.25" inlets on the muffler? I am thinking 2" cause the stock is pipe is around 1 7/8" correct? I know exhaust systems have been discussed and I have read through previous threads but still not sure of the answer.

Since the consensus seems to be they are resonators, I think I will keep it simple and cheap. Gonna swap the muffler at the inlets and get rid of the single rear resonator.

The 2nd oxygen sensor is before these so I don't see how it could throw a CEL.

Does anyone know if part #'s 20010 and 20020 are additional catalytic converters or just resonators? My 1998 Pathy is California emissions and has these pipes instead of straight pipes like the federal emissions. I am doing an exhaust system and will probably leave them if they are just resonators. But if they are additional cats I may get rid of them to free up the system more. OEM they are like $800 compared to around $300 for the fed emissions pipes so it makes me think they are cats, which sucks.

Ok, I am long overdue for a suspension overhaul on my 98 pathy. I have decided on the OME springs but am not completey sure what to go with. I am thinking HD all around as I want as much lift from the springs as I can get and I often tow my dirtbike on a hitch carrier. Also, I have plans for an off-road bumper in the future. I have a few questions: 1. Do I need longer rear shocks with these springs? 2. If I go with NX4 front spacers will my ride be level?

I searched but couldn't find anything. Anyone installed an aftermaket driver's seat? Mine is worn down pretty bad and want to replace it with something nice. I know I have looked for brackets before with no luck. Anyone made custom brackets? Are there seats from other cars that will fit? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. I'm in Melbourne. Does this sound like anything the shop could have caused? Replacing a distributor is just a swap out right? The ignition timing or anything else doesn't need to be messed with or set?

So I got two bad distributors within a month. Generic one lasted a month then got name brand and it lasted one day! Things are made so cheap now. Anyway, replacement distributor seems to be working fine (for now) but I am flashing P0430 code. I have researched and found that this can happen with a bad distributor as it dumps raw fuel into the exhaust causing heat which can damage either the O2 sensor or the cat. I will try the O2 sensor first but was wondering if the post-cat sensor has any affect on engine performance, gas mileage, etc. or is it just for emissions? My R50 is a 1998. I was just wondering cause I'm not sure when I will get to working on it and might be driving it for a bit with the code flashing. Also, I believe this code is for bank 2 which I think is the driver side, correct? Thanks.

Turns out it was a fuse! #16 was missing. I had posted another topic about an inconsistency in my fuse panel. I still don't know exactly what happened and how the fuse was missing. I can only imagine that the events went something like this: 1. Installed the custom intake and engine flashed P0505 (possibly due to over oiling the filter) 2. While troubleshooting this I checked the fuse panel. Somehow I must have not put all the fuses back in or one fell out and engine flashed multiple more codes. 3. Replaced the IAC valve but engine still flashed all codes because the fuse was missing. So, probably had an IAC valve problem the first time and replacing it would have fixed it if the fuse wasn't missing. Still can't believe I would have done that with the fuse cause I could swear I checked everything and put it all back just as I found it. At least it's finally fixed! Hope this can help someone in the future if they start flashing all those codes. Check the #16 fuse first! And find a mechanic you can trust as I even told mine I thought it might have been the ECU which would have cost a lot more than a half hour of labor to find out it was a fuse.

Still dealing with this by the way. Just been driving it as I haven't had time to work on it. Pretty much thinking my ECM is bad at this point. Problem is it is the california emissions manual transmission version and I can't find a replacement anywhere. Part # MECM-W420. Does anybody know if I can use a federal ECM? What are the differences? I know I have the extra resonators after the cats but am wondering if there are any other differences?

So I had the ingenious idea of tapping into some of the relays under the hood on the driver's side. You can fit a fuse tap under the relays. Tapped into the #5 lead on the AC relay for the AC control and the power socket relay for the ignition power. No tapping into the condenser wire or running through the firewall. Has to be the easiest way to hook up electric fan. In the first picture below, the farthest right blue relay is the AC one and the farthest left blue relay is the ignition powered source.

Yeah, I was just thinking about leaving it like that since I'm in Florida. But I definitely need to do the AC hook up. Been driving it without it and ac doesn't work at all until engine warms up and fan turns on. It is hot as hell here right now so just a few minutes is plenty of time to be sweating. Is there an AC fuse that I can tap into?

I just installed a black magic 180 electric fan. I'm an electric newbie so could use some help. Got as far as all the power wired up. Found an empty fuse location in the fuse box under the hood on the passenger side that said "RAD FAN". I guess there was an electric fan option on the R50 or it's the same box from another car? Anyway I used that and it is constant power so the fan runs with the truck off until cool. Where can I run it so it is ignition activated? Also, I am going to hook up the AC connection but I just look under the hood with a blank stare. Only wires I see from the condenser look like sensor connections and I don't know where to go?

Finished Quest alternator installation and Black Magic electric fan install. Still seem to have slow starting issues even after starter and alternator. Maybe battery is going bad after all or I have a short somewhere. I even wonder if my ECM is flipping out. I do have to remember this all started with the intake, so I will have to do what XPLORx4 said and mess with the IAT first.

I just did this install and had a few issues/tips that might help. - For ease of installation, I highly recommend draining the radiator then removing the radiator hose that is directly in front of the alternator. I also removed the bottom hose for access from under. - I had to grind down the lip of the housing around the shaft right behind the pulley in order for the pulley to sit flush on the shaft and not sit on the lip. - Instead of grinding down the tabs on the Quest alternator you can get a longer bolt for the top from a hardware store (think it was an M10 x 1.5). For the bottom bolt, I found an alternator bolt kit at Advance auto parts that had a 3/8" bolt that is plenty long enough. Had to put a few extra washers on it to cover the unthreaded shaft before I put a nut on.