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Hello community! Owned a 2002 stock LE for almost a year now, and after a few ventures up FSRs for camping, canoeing and ski-touring days I'm keen to try out this off-road business a little more. I watched a couple of YouTube videos (isnt that how everyone starts a new hobby these days?) and got pointed here. Aim is to start with a couple of modest modifications to expand the reach of where I can travel to and go from there. I'm assuming the first mod is a lift of some kind, bigger tires etc? Anyway, looking forward to delving into this a lot more and starting to make some modest mods as I go.

Not mine, but has pics;

Hi all, I just wanted to share a quick video i made of my 2001 Pathfinder with new Falcon AT3W’s on stock suspension. The reason for this is I found a lot of conflicting information on if you will rub or not by going up a size from 255/65/16 to 255/70/16. The tires fit like a glove and don’t rub at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good video, they look like nice tires. I’m sure this video will help inform people who find themselves in similar situations- It’s a common and popular question. I have 32x11.5 LT’s and they’re pretty darn aggressive. I’ll also echo some of the comments above. I think there’s conflicting information for a lot of reasons. Not everyone owns identical R50’s per se.... There’s at least two different steering racks available to R50’s. Different rim options have different backspacing. Different vehicles have different levels wear on their stock suspension. There are different strut part numbers for each generation, different mudflap setups, and different front end weights when the engines changed. Also, some people would consider it rubbing if you can’t cycle the suspension and steering in all directions.....all that to say there’s plenty of room for discrepancies. Keep sharing!

Like Mr. Reverse said, it goes by weight. I used a kitchen scale and measured the whole apparatus sitting on it before hand, then just noted how much went in. You can just use a syringe and put the oil in the lines. That's what I did, I wasn't buying a 100 dollar oil injector lol. And Rustflames just posted the sticker I was talking about! I'm not close to my truck right now and I doubt my Xterra is exactly the same. As for the oil I couldn't find PAG oil near me, at least no one would sell it to me, but I did find ester oil with dye, which is supposed to be compatible. I did that work in 2016 and it hasn't blown up yet! And it is colder than most of my friend's new cars.

Yes I did! Thanks

1st test, Lokka Talk: Here's an obstacle that has stumped me twice before by either getting hung up on my sliders or rocker panels. You pick either the rock on the left side or the right side to pivot/bottom out on, and proceed from there. I have a sneaking suspicsion that the obstacle has been rearranged since last summer, but I also got stuck on it in March, and its less likely the rocks have been changed since then. The first time I got hung up in June 2019- I'm a tire rotation away from obliterating my driver rocker panel: The vehicle ends up coming up and over the rocks with the front tires lifting and dropping at seperate times. On open diffs, this obstacle generally wasn't possible for me. We managed to get @micahfelker through without damage, but I couldn't replicate the feat. Adding sliders just meant I got stuck sooner w/o any risk for body damage. With the lokka however, it's a different obstacle. I crawled over this (unspotted) in one slow but succinct motion, pivoting on the passenger slider throughout most of the motion. Sure, if I had the stones I could probably throttle and bump my way up it, but I'd take the lokka over that any day. My sliders are more useful now too-they don't just protect, but they actually now can slide over rocks in certain situations. There are still plenty of ways to get this thing stuck, bottomed out, and immobilized, but I think the lokka will prove to be a worthy upgrade. Steering: It's affected by adding a lokka, don't get me wrong on that. I found that it depended pretty predictably on the terrain and to what extent you had the drivetrain engaged. Obvioulsy, with hubs unlocked you can't feel it. 2WD w/ hubs locked has practically zero change in steering on most surfaces, including pavement and hard packed dirt. Little to no self centering. 4WD High/Lo: Noticeable self centering/resistance in steering. In a ~2hr test run with it, the self centering didn't really let up or lighten much while in 4WD. It's 100% driveable, but its also 100% different than an open diff. The more torque you supply the lokka with (and the less traction/grip a certain surface has), the stronger the steering will get. So, in between obstacles I coasted through turns and supplied throttle on straightaways, and that made it totally driveable. Or if you're in 4HI, popping it in to 2HI works as well. I also wouldn't try to drive super fast in 4WD. The steering got the worst when I decided to try a U-turn on a trail only slightly wider than my vehicle while still in 4LO. It was fairly sandy, and I could immediately tell that my turning radius was diminished under those circumstances. The steering wheel was pretty heavy at full lock, and in the sand (with all the torque available in that gear), the vehicle plows forward through sand as it turns. It turned a ~2.5 point turn into a solid 3-4 point turn. So, if you were in a dire situation I could see how the lokka might put someone at a disadvantage. I was just goofing off and could've put it in 2HI if I was trying to turn as quickly as possible. A little long-winded, but I wanted to give a thorough idea of how it's gone so far and what changes I've noticed. I'll revise any of the above statements as I get used to the lokka, these are just my first impressions. For me personally, I'd call the first test a success. I couldn't necessarily "feel" the LSD, maybe I'll have to test it out in 2WD. 4.6's are good, and the low end torque is nice for all things dirt and rock.

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